^i agree. it was pretty tough. i just pushed on the back of the plug with my right hand and turned it with my left. took a couple trys. i did this with the engine on the stand and the pump bolted down too. i think that should help. it helps hold the pump in place while you go at it with that...
oh god....so over 5mm is to much? :aigo:
i shimmed mine to about 7-8mm because i read from 5mm (jdub) to 10mm (adjuster). then how some went to 12mm. the 7-8mm was pretty tight since it was on a new pump. does anybody know when the spring starts to bind? even though i'm not about to pull...
looks like somebody already shimmed it. although you might want to shim it more. 7-10mm seems to be the norm. btw most 10mm nust are 5mm thick.
and brand new there isn't a 10mm nut inside the plug...
shit........i was planning on using these too. did the same fitting keep failing or was it more than one npt to barb? maybe you had to tight of a bend in the routing. from what i have read those fitting and lines are great. now i'm nervous about them. i literally was just about to order them...
so i got a call from the machine shop that one of the cam caps on the head i just had them do work on is cracked. i'm pretty pissed off. i brought them a head that didn't have any problems and now it does. i haven't had a chance to see it in person yet though. tomorrow i'm going to go down...
first race in the vid isn't that great but the second one is awesome. both cars sounded mean. :evil2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkrvBzVfXm8&feature=related
last set i got a couple months ago said 90ft/lbs with their lube.
like IJ said any moly assembly lube will work fine. in the past i have used generic moly lube from the parts house and it worked great till i leaned out popping the hg.
yeah, there are clips in the pistons. its just i don't see how any of the pins in the pistons i have taken out for a 7m could rotate. as they had to be heated slightly to pop the pin out. i'm guessing during warm-up the processes of the dissimilar metals expanding at different rates might allow...
buzz!!!
wow. i can't believe i'm correcting IJ....actually on the npr's and the oem pistons the interference fit is in the PISTON. the rod has a bushing in it. that is what the piston pin rotates in. hence why it has a bushing. the npr's pin slide in when new. that is true. but once heat...
^he is talking about 400whp. i would say with clevites so cheap just get them. if anyone payed $400 for a set of clevites they would have to be a dumbass. any napa, kragen, or whatever the hell its called where you live should have them. or you can get them hear. best price i have found online...
^IJ what do you think of running these. they seem to be the same just summit's brand.
and -10 is what should be run with a shimmed pump correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220753/
my cheap felpro hg lasted me almost 2 years of hard driving until i leaned out from a boost spike and crushed a coolent jacket ring (i'm positive it would have lasted longer if this didn't happen).
not to say those hg are good. i have a couple eristic hg sitting around and they are extremely...
^so jdub the stained area isn't rough at all. i actually decided i would see if it would wipe off with a paper towel and it did. then i check to see if the viton was brittle and its not. i have a feeling it will be fine. if i recall viton is pretty resistant and tough.
here are some pics of...
i'm going to run it. i just wanted to see what other people had to say. i figured ij, jdub, drjonez, or somebody would have seen this over the years. i think with a freshly machined block and head it will seal just fine. i guess i will find out.
i got it second hand off a member. its suppose to be NIB. i wanted some opinion about if i should use it or not. has anyone ever recieve one that looked like this?
and the first two pics its not down to the metal.
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