anyone have torque sheet for arp studs?

Kevin

7mgte -> 7mgte swap done.
Apr 20, 2009
865
0
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Windsor Ontario Canada
anyone have torque sheet that came with arp studs with the specs?
i have some used studs but don't have the specs. doing a search people have been saying all kinds of different numbers.. soo i wanna know what it says on the sheet with moly lube and with oil
thanks
 

EOS

Obsessed with photography
Feb 27, 2008
45
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St Louis, MO
I don’t mean to sound like a jerk to anyone, but I’d recommend ignoring the various torque figures quoted by others. I’ve used ARP head bolts or studs for virtually every car I’ve owned in the last fifteen years, and my personal experience has led me to four “personal rules” when using ARP head bolts or studs:

1: Chase the threads using a good quality thread chaser.
2: Use ARP’s torque figures, not what other people insist is better.
3: If at all possible, use ARP’s moly lube, not 30WT engine oil.
4: Don’t just lube the threads; lube both sides of the washers as well, as this will help you get a torque reading that’s both more consistent and more accurate.

When you install them, screw them into the block, but only tighten them “hand tight” (in ARP’s words). And even though the spec sheet says you CAN use Loctite for installation, I definitely wouldn’t recommend it.

Here’s the problem, though: If I remember right, ARP’s specs for 7M studs have changed a little through the years, ranging from (I think) about 75 ft/lbs to 82ft/lbs. (A quick search on SM should turn up at least one thread that points this out.) For reference, my head studs were purchased from Summit Racing back in ’06. According to the sheet that came with mine, the studs are 12mm studs rated at 190,000PSI. The torque specs are supposed to be based on 75% of the stud’s yield strength. If you’d like-and if I get the chance to do so-I can scan the spec sheet and post it here or email it to you (just let me know). As far as the torque specs listed for mine go, the recommendation is 80ft/lbs if you’re using ARP’s moly lube (available through any ARP distributor), or 120ft/lbs if you’re using 30WT engine oil as lube. Additionally, while it’s not mentioned in the spec sheet, you’ll want to torque the nuts in three passes (again, this is ARP’s recommendation, not my opinion). If you use too many passes when you torque the nuts, supposedly the torque wrench won’t necessarily have enough variance between the torque figures for each pass to work properly. Basically, you can end up with uneven torque figures if you use too many passes to torque the nuts down.

And if all else fails, call ARP for a recommendation as to what to do. The phone number listed on my spec sheet is (805) 339-2200. But I’m thinking you’ll be fine if you hand tighten the studs, lube the threads and washers with ARP’s lube, and torque the nuts to 80ft/lbs in three passes. Oh, and don’t forget about retorquing them a few times.

Hope this helps…

Joe
 
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radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
1,342
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Abbotsford, BC
Anyone who gets ARP hardware should be able to get you the moly lube. I picked up a tube and it will be good for more rebuilds than I hope to ever do on my car :)
 

Kevin

7mgte -> 7mgte swap done.
Apr 20, 2009
865
0
0
Windsor Ontario Canada
radiod;1525130 said:
Anyone who gets ARP hardware should be able to get you the moly lube. I picked up a tube and it will be good for more rebuilds than I hope to ever do on my car :)

any examples of canadian stores that do? lol
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
1,813
0
36
Macon, GA
Kevin;1524673 said:
thanks. so where would one get some arp moly lube? because torquing to 120 with oil scares me lol

You should be able to find it online. I just torqued my head to 120 with oil and it was fine.. It was a bit scary having to put that much force on the wrench but it worked out OK.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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I come from a land down under
Still don't buy the whole "special Moly lube" , I use Castrol LMM grease (Moly Grease) it's a few $ for a lifetime supply and works well as an assembly lube as well.

Joe: I'd change #1 in your list to "Chase the threads using a chaser" as they tend to only clean the existing threads and don't remove material/enlarge the hole, this is a danger with a Tap when it's not used in either a drill press or with a T Handle (most guys will hack away with a Crescent Wrench)
 

EOS

Obsessed with photography
Feb 27, 2008
45
0
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49
St Louis, MO
IJ.;1525257 said:
Still don't buy the whole "special Moly lube" , I use Castrol LMM grease (Moly Grease) it's a few $ for a lifetime supply and works well as an assembly lube as well.

Joe: I'd change #1 in your list to "Chase the threads using a chaser" as they tend to only clean the existing threads and don't remove material/enlarge the hole, this is a danger with a Tap when it's not used in either a drill press or with a T Handle (most guys will hack away with a Crescent Wrench)

You’re entirely correct, and I went back and edited my first post to reflect this. I think the reason I phrased it that was because the ARP’s instruction sheet said “To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block. Re-tap only if necessary.” For some reason, I kind of assumed the OP would start with a thread chaser, and only move on to an actual tap with a T handle if he needed to. I DEFINITELY should have phrased that part of my post differently. My apologies.

Anecdotally, if I have to use a tap for some reason, I only use a T handle. Back in my late teens, I used a tap on an existing hole in an aluminum part. I was unable to find my T handle, so I said to myself, “Screw it, I’ll use this”, as I grabbed a small pair of vise grips out of my tool box. Funny thing is, in the back of my mind, I knew there was a good chance I was going to screw up the threads in the hole this way, but I was so foolishly determined at the time that I pressed on with it. I'm sure you know what happened next. I sure as **** never did THAT again, nor will I…

Joe
 

black89t

boost'en down 101
Oct 27, 2007
951
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humboldt, ca
last set i got a couple months ago said 90ft/lbs with their lube.


like IJ said any moly assembly lube will work fine. in the past i have used generic moly lube from the parts house and it worked great till i leaned out popping the hg.
 

isnms

United States of America
Mar 30, 2005
2,145
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Oklahoma
i80.photobucket.com
It seems that it could vary from 80-90ft/lb with moly lube.

The sheet I have says 81 but as you can tell from this thread there are two other sheets, one with 90 and one with 80
p1527825_1.jpg
 

tissimo

Stock is boring :(
Apr 5, 2005
4,238
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Melbourne, FL
I remember something saying if the head was aluminum and the block was iron use 75ftlbs. It was years ago I did it though.