Ok, so to be clear on what happened:
I did have the w58 bracket, which is the one with the most angles
The one I got today is the R154 bracket, which is semi-straight and has the rubber brace on it.
This will be installed tomorrow along with my SOGI shifter and the walbro/megamouth DP...
lol Well it wouldn't exactly be 'driving down' for me since I already live down here :sarcasm:
But yes, you could should attend. It's going to be a great time! And it's hard enough as is to get us local guys together, so hanging out with other Supra owners is always a treat.
One word: Dayum.
Make sure you bring it to the May 2010 meet down here in Hampton Roads! Should only be a couple of hours to drive, especially if you take the Eastern Shore and cross the Bay Bridge. I would love to see this thing running in person!
Well I'll be damned. You sir, deserve a big mother fucking cookie. :boink:
http://www.4cefed.com/w58vsr154/w58vsr154.html
There it is. I have the straight one, so I need the one that HAS THE BENDS for the bolt holes. Fucking sweet. Now I just need to find one and get it here in 2 days...
The DS fits fine and is the right one. But yes, there was a slight difference in length. I laid them side by side so I could see for sure.
The bracket for the transmission is what I am having trouble with. Does anyone have a picture of an R154 chassis bracket? This would answer my question...
Hvy, you aren't making too much sense. What bracket is the bracket that's bracketing what? lol
Break down: I want to use the trans bracket and the DS bracket. I can bolt the DS up fine, but the trans bracket is not fitting properly. This is the issue:
The chassis bolt hole is here --> O O <--...
I tried both DS's. You can't use the front half of the W58 spline on the R154 transmission which is why I did the hybrid. The carrier bearing will bolt up fine if I pull the DS out of the transmission. It's the transmission bracket which matters. It has to bolt up so that it keeps vibration to a...
Not a problem man. It is by far the best route to go. Make sure to get everything machined too. You won't regret spending the money on the right stuff.
On that note, after this weekend I may have a gte head/cams available. I will let you know.
I also have a gte oil pump, but it may need a...
Ok, so after a nice semi-long build-up (yes, there will be a thread with pics once she runs), I have come to a halt on my progress.
The only issues I have left to fix seem to not be so simple. The transmission is .5" too far back, which keeps me from bolting up the carrier bearing for the DS...
Congrats on a little bit of progress.
I agree with Deadly. Start with what was fucked with first a.k.a. the Harness and battery relocate appear to be the biggest things.
As for the TPS calibration, I am performing this tomorrow morning on the new one. It's easy, you just need a clean TB, a...
Yes. that's pretty much what causes rod knock. The reason BHG's cause it is because the coolant mixing with the oil creates a corrosive mixture which eats the softer metal of the bearings, which in turn cause too much damage/clearance between the rod/bearing/crank. Hence: rod knock. It is...
Rebuild time is what it sounds like to me. Just make sure you listen to it with the stethoscope to get a good idea where and what it is. Lower down = rod knock
Up to what point does it stop making the noise? Did the noise get progressively worse over time? Did it just happen out of the blue? Have you had any leaks that you have noticed? Overheating?
I have to agree, the CAI does make a bit of a difference. I plan on running one once I get my MAFT system set up right. I see it as:
I would rather have 40 to 90-something degree air (depending on ambient) going in, rather than the hot air that is in the engine bay going in. Every little bit...
Sweet, so I get a cookie right? :naughty:
But seriously, any other things that happen to make you think rod knock? Overheating, eating oil/coolant, other noises?
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