Nice, glad to hear it didn't fall off the face of the earth. Don't know if you ended up deciding on a clutch, but I strongly recommend you go with a twin disk. I have an ACT 6 puck in my car with an upgraded PP and it is truly awful. Chattery piece of junk and the pressure plate ate my thrust...
Kind of an old thread but don't ride your clutch either. I had a healthy short block and had the switch bypassed and still ended up with crank walk with http://www.advancedclutch.com/ts2-xtg6 . Less than 700 miles.
Those wheels came stock on 96 and 97 Cobras. 94-95 Cobras had the same style but the dark area inside the spoke was polished. They are 17x8, think offset is around +32 but not 100%. They are a fairly cheap, strong wheel that actually look really good on MK3s if not going for hellaflush. 98...
Specifically shifter mods on these cars. Sogi mod makes an R154 shift like complete ass and has no benefit lol
Compared to, for example, the MGW in my Mustang. Throw is maybe 1/4 of stock, no increased effort. Has adjustable stops (set right significantly decreases risk of breaking a fork)...
Make sure you keep track of the incredible amount of things behind the dash. I am in the middle of doing an interior swap into a bare shell and kinda kicking myself for not taking more pictures.
Sounds like you're on the right track.
I don't really understand the appeal for these cars. I haven't had a chance to drive a car with a Nashman or C's but I'm pretty sure they don't have stops so what's the point? Idk. Used to domestics where shifters are actually an improvement over stock in throw, durability and safety lol
Steve, may be too late but trans destruction (at least locally) has been non-existent on cars running stock shifters/driveshafts However, everyone I know of locally that has used a hacked up shifter has broken at least one. I have broken 2 with a stock shifter, one very minor (bolt in shift...
Can't really use them both. The SAFC gets around fuel cut by manipulating the MAP voltage going to the ECU. When you pull fuel with the SAFC, it tells the ECU the map voltage is lower than it really is and in turn the ECU pumps out less fuel (and more timing). The FCD just clamps voltage from...
I have 275/35s and it is definitely flush but I think my quarter panel wants to eat my tire. I haven't lowered it yet because I still have work to do under the car but I suspect I'm going to have to roll when I do. I have coilovers but I don't want to set the rears stiff lol
They will clear the inside NP and will sit pretty close to flush front and rear I think. Might be a little past flush actually. May have to roll your quarters. I have a set of 18x9.5 +38 and they are damn close.
Pulley wouldn't be difficult but would probably be pricey. Could start with round stock, mill the D shape in, rough in the teeth with a drill, throw it in a lathe to get it roughly to size, maybe finish it like that or send it out to get hardened and EDM finish the teeth in. Can't really see it...
Set your FP to stock to start with. Set your boost where you want it and go from there. If you're hitting fuel cut at that pressure you can turn up your FP a bit and pull a bit more fuel out. No one can tell you what settings you'll need without being in the car/at the dyno watching your wideband.
My 6262, the 6765 and 6266 didn't spin at idle either. I don't have a habit of sticking my finger in a turbo that's moving so I can't comment on that bit lol.
My turbo has about 700mi on it now with no issues. 6266 is more like 3k, no worries there either. 6765 blew up but was ran hard with no oil.
Grand that's worse than a friends 6765 .96 on a stock ecu. Gotta be a sizeable pre-turbo exhaust leak or leaky waste gate or something. What's the AR? I seriously doubt that's a turbo problem. Should be @ 10PSI by around 4k, probably sooner.
IndyMK3 or something has a 6266 .68 that was at 10lbs...
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