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Going to 7/16ths means you'll have to drill out the holes even larger for the helicoils...this is bad! This is bad because there isn't much aluminum around each hole as it is...this means less meat...the aluminum is already soft from annealing so now you'll be removing more material....this...

So you say.

Btw...I rock a shaftmasters single now.

It's not "good"...but it's not "bad" stock ds's tend to fail at the bonded section in the rear half of the ds....I know this because I broke my stocker in my bone stock n/a... When it broke it destroyed my center support bearing, trans output shaft bearing, and probably diff isn't too...

Your sig says "soon to be 1jz" yet you have no clue what a gte needs to run???!! How's about you go in the "7mge" section and read the stickys about going turbo. Noobs:nono:

Won't help...I know exactly what his problem is...empera has the same problem but there was 3 of us holding the stand away from the bumper and 2 holding the engine back from hitting the cross member....he NEEDS a bigger lift with a longer boom if he isn't gonna have extra help. Or get a chain...

Are you hitting fuel cut?

It's a thought that wasn't thought of very well...bigger doesn't mean better.

it's not as simple as an exhaust leak...it's stripped hole the happens to be very important! Seems like a small issue but it's a problem and an even bigger problem on a turbo car! I'm not gonna get into why you should stay away from the oversized stud kit from DM...but I hope you'll take my...

Measure how long your boom is and figure out how long it's needs to be....then buy a bigger lift.

You'll have to remove the manifold and helicoil or timecert the holes....you can do it with the motor in the car but odds are you'll fuck it up...it's best to do this in a milling machine (aka machine shop).

It's a fuel injected car...pumping the pedal does nothing for you...stop doing that.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_19979_19979 win!

They are about $70 you don't need to remove the bumper...just Jack the car up enough and keep it up.

Compressor or not if you have the ac button pushed in then you'll throw a code 51....this does not effect the cars operation....if your throttle position sensor has lost connection or is out of calibration then your car will run like crap!

Lift the car high enough to get a 5 gal bucket under it...unscrew the huge plug in the bottom of the tank...easy as pie!

Remove all bearings and clean everything again...make sure you put rod in facing the right direction...crank main caps facing the correct direction

Valve seals generally only cause smoking on start up for a few seconds then the smoke goes away.....

Valve tick is very normal in a 20 year old motor

Afrp my bad ic ...this is mkiii supra forum...all mkiii's have fmic's....suppose I should be more specific:-(