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Hager looks like he's been ummmm "poking" a smurf with his "sword"..... I'm north of Baltimore, not many Maryland Supra owners are very active on here for some reason. Oh and I saw that brown and beige one at that dealership, looked very clean but I was shopping for something else....

Update is that its for sale as is.... I don't have the time or place to work on it anymore.

Understood Ian, but I cant hear the knock very good once the rpm is much above idle when im standing in front of it. The camera actually filters out the other sounds and picks up the knock noise better than i can hear it. I'll try it again at 2300-2500 rpm and remove the injector clips one at a...

This doesnt sound like valves to me, i can hear them when its cold and they sound fine. the knock is most audible at idle once warm (ie oil pressure much lower), I pulled the injector clips one at a time and its still there, confimed by another pair of ears. I really dont want to pull the...

i cant hear it very well over 1k rpm, but this could be that my exhuast is very loud and might be drowning it out. Pulling injector clips one at a time doesn't make a difference, which is odd but there could be multiple bad bearings.

I know its impossible for anyone to definitely diagnose rod knock over the internet, but I am just looking for some outside input.... Rebuilt 7m, arp hardware, probe pistons, mhg etc. Oil was in motor upon start up but remote filter setup had a crossed line causing no oil pressure. Yippee...

I'm getting it. I was hoping for motorswaps too..... Can't wait to dust off the ol' G25 wheel and actually use the clutch pedal! Kai I am sure there will be more cars to download in the future ($), and maybe some secret unlockables?

How did I miss that? Anyway, guess the world isnt coming to an end, thats common place for California.

Alrighty then.... the throttle stop screw and the dashpot were set incorrectly causing the tb blade to remain open slightly. Idle is reduced to 650rpm when fully warm but now and I have it timed correctly. Something still seems a little off though, idle isnt perfect, rpms move a little and im...

Did you check for codes? Your AFM might not be the cause, in my opinion there is no sense in hunting one down to test in you car if you dont have a code saying its bad... even if your check engine light does not stay on the ecu will still store codes that may help you diagnose your problem...

I thought all Candians were nice and polite....?

Update! I looked at the throttle stop screw.... its set to far and I think its causing the tb blade to be open slightly. The bracket has a little give and when I pushed down the rpms lowered. It was getting dark so I didnt get to correct it yet and see if it drops to 650rpms but I think I...

LOL I have not seen this myself....

Just tested the AFM per tsrm and it failed miserably... e1 to ks is open, ks to e1 is open, vc to e1 is open and e1 to vc is open. only thing that passed was ks to e1 being open and THA to e2 was at 3k ohms which is normal for 70 degrees f. Gonna source one locally, replace it and then hunt down...

100%. I can disconnect the metal rod and it makes no difference. There is actually slack in the throttle cable itself. But I do need to check the actual tb blade itself.

Understood. I will tackle the code 31 then get back to the leak. Thanks! EDIT: You don't have to explain if you dont want to but I am curious as to why the two engine types react differently.... I may be getting a little above my head here but I'd like to learn.... I understand the AFM...

Ah great... then I likely have another issue to sort out. Something else causing the high idle (could the afm be a suspect? I do have a code 31... ) AND a pirate air leak as confirmed by doing what Jdub says in post# 14 of this thread...

External wastegate is currently only actuated by pressure line from turbo overcoming a 6psi spring, no boost controller hooked up and no vaccum line to it so thats out. FPR and EGR lines are all in good condition and connected properly.

I would check for codes, then make 100% sure you do not have any vaccum leaks before anything else. Code 31 will tell you if your afm is bad. I do not think the AFM is fused anywhere, pretty sure it is grounded and the rest of the wires go straight to the ecu.

Plugged all ports to the intake manifold including the ISCV and the motor still runs, it should die with no air supply but it still runs at about 600-700 rpms. I need to check the tb plate to further narrow the air leak but its dark and raining right now. I will check it tomorrow.