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It looks like you had something laying there that was wet, and rusted. (See the rust on the edge where your cam cover goes? The alloy would not rust, but whatever was laying there rusted, and also helped to cause rust on your cams, and the cam cap bolt too.) I'd get it cleaned up with WD40...

Well, with the plate, and without it, we measured the bores, and found up to a 4 thouands difference in them. So, if your pistons are set to 6k, and that bore is not round, you can have quite a gap for the rings to seal up.. Not impossible, but not optimum either. I'd say don't worry...

Simple questions. 1) Are you going to get a stand alone? 2) What is your max RPM goals? The answer to this question will dictate if you need dual springs, or if the single "stock" design will work fine for you. IF you are going to use the stock ECU, or run this motor at stock, or near...

I can tell you what adding more stroke to the 7MGTE did.. :) Added about a 100lbs of tourqe increase at peak, and more everywhere else across the curve. (On a chassis dyno.) Stock stroke is 91.5mm IIRC, mine is 97MM Stock bore is like 83.XXmm... Mine is 84mm. (Works out to like 3.24L now...

300 Whisper is the way to go. :) Very quiet, very accurate, and it sits right on your existing AR frame/parts etc. http://www.300whisper.com/ Of course, if you really, really need it to get there quiet, and still be packing a punch, the 500 Whisper is the way to go... I'm sure they...

The NA pump has shorter gears than the Turbo pump. All are made by Asin. (The Toyota OEM ones just have the Toyota name, and Asin name on them, and the Asin ones have the Toyota name ground off....) Same exact pump OEM to ASIN. Not the same NA to Turbo. Both pumps fit either block...

4 thousands is a good number. Are your pistons coated? ROSS reccomends 6 thousands, but they slap like crazy when cold when set to that number. (And worse when coated, as they do not heat up as much, or as consistantly as bare pistons do.) My coated ROSS ones are set to 3.5k right now. :)...

Thus the reason I have Pauter forged billet rods on my stroker... Exhaust stroke stresses at stock rpm seems to be no problem.. :) Even on a few over-rev moments into the 7150rpm range, it has not broken anything up to this point... No need to rev this engine higher either, it's very...

Can be done, but you do not need to drop the crossmember. Just undo the engine mounts at the cradle, and jack up the engine slightly so you can get the pan in and out. (Or is it out and in..) Be prepared to find more than just a rod bearing failure.. It's not uncommon to see the rod...

Man, I have no idea, but that rod is sure short compared to the 7M! Very interesting. I also notice it has the oil squirter in the shoulder like the 7M rods.. Time for some forged pistons and new rings that come along with them... :) :)

Oh, on the other part of your PM, using stock pistons is no problem, but it depends more on what your power goals are when chosing rods and pistons. At a minimum, I would reccomend coatings for stock pistons. (These can be done on a budget too.) The piston crown thermal barrier coating is...

Stock rods are shotpeened already. (Can see it in the texture of the surface if you look closely.) I'd reccomend using ARP bolts on stock rods. (Notice the thousands of small dimples in the metal, even over the forging flash area? That's from being shot peened at the factory that produced...

That extra belt tensioner Homer Simpson has added is trick. (What is it, and where can I get one..?) OK, on the head, I've only delt with a Turbo piston'd engine, and coated ones at that. I think a domed piston is the way to go if you are building a complete motor. On a budget, and if...

Read all that I could stand, looked around for the technical data, and it's not there in much quantity. My thoughts are this. 1) The guy is a Earth First nutjob. That is very clear. 2) He has found out what many engine builders/designers have known for years. Turbulent mixtures burn...

For the most part, I really like Ted, but I doubt that I could hang out with him for any extended amount of time. He is way to stuck on himself.. (As if nobody ever noticed... :) ) LOL

Am I weird? I am DEVO! :) :) Rock on Ted!

The improvement to dollar ratio on this junkyard brake setup is not worth the money. Look at the swept area. It is not much different from the stock MK3. ARZ's setup is an improvement in both swept area, and ability to shed heat, and deal with that heat. (Everything in brakes.) For...

I have a set of the "ADR" M Sports, but they are "ASA AR-1" rims... Same exact thing, a BBS copy/knock off... Very light for the money. Nice looking. Not easy to keep clean. I have them in 18" with my summer tires, Goodyear Eagle GSD3's on the A8. They look very nice. :) They suck...

Most lowered MK3's and any other car this low for that matter, will have scrapes from speed bumps, entry ramps and other stuff that is built for higher vehicles. This is why I totally reccomend having a flexable section in whatever DP you use or make. Think about this. Every time it...

Someone posted about the rack bushings being very close to ones already made for Toyota trucks? I'd like to know more about that, and see if these guys have a set, and/or can confirm what works, of if there is a close set that can be modified/ground/machined or otherwise used on our cars. Or...