Head questions

[91mk3ma70]

Hey guys, I have decided to go all the way with my 7MGTE. Im alittle unclear about a few things. Suprastore offers a head package for $1540 with 1mm oversized valves. This package includes valves, dual valve springs, spring seat locators, and titanium retainers. Now, titan offers everything separately so you can piece it together youself. For the same parts, it totals out to $712. Now it could be because they are different brands? (most likely)? Anyways, Im pretty ingorant when it comes to heads. Im still nit 100% sure if I want to go with building it. I do have high hp goals, it just feels like the right thing to do. Any suggestions... Anyone?

 

[zachm611]

possibly different brands..different valve springs, maybe not even 1mm over size also the head took me a while to get back together the retainers are kind of a pita.

 

[Adjuster]

Simple questions.

1) Are you going to get a stand alone?
2) What is your max RPM goals?

The answer to this question will dictate if you need dual springs, or if the single "stock" design will work fine for you.

IF you are going to use the stock ECU, or run this motor at stock, or near stock RPM limits, the Comp Cams springs for the 7M are by far, the BEST DEAL OUT THERE. They are less than 70.00 Shipped to your door.

They are the "inner" springs from a BBC engine, and they are sold and packaged in groups of 12 each.. (For the 7M application.. Search, and you can find the part number, IIRC, it's like 978-12 or something like that.)

These springs fit with no machine work needed, use the stock retainers, and have higher seated and open pressures, but not so high they cause wear issues.

You can get 1mm Oversize stainless valves for this motor from enginebuilder on Ebay for less than 250.00 last time I checked.. (Why spend more?)

If you do not cut the stock spring seats, it will not gain you much anyway. (The seats become your restriction, the ID of them is smaller than you want, but you can't take off too much, or you don't have any seat material left...)

Smooth out any sharp cuts/edges in the valve bowl areas.. The area of the intake and exhaust ports in the head, just under the valve seats.. There are sharp lips there, and smoothing this all out improves flow quite well.

Do some more reasearch and reading, and save yourself 1000.00 or more. (Assuming your not trying to build a 7M that will rev to 9000 RPM here.)

If you want something like that, build a JZ motor, they are designed for higher RPM use, and the oil system will hold up to it better. The 7M shines in low/mid and I'll call it under 7k rpm power... Where you need it.

Read and research this more. There are many other ways to spend your hard earned money better than to dump 1500.00 into someone's head package.

Buy better rods. Buy better pistons. Find a good machine shop that has built a few of these motors before. (Not easy, trust me.. they mostly don't know shit, and will screw up perfectly good engines if left alone to build one like a Chevy Small Block.)

Good luck.

 

[The1]

I know this isn't close to the OP questions but it is head related...I haven't installed my head yet but for some reason, I have rust on the cams. Is there an easy way to clean them??

**pics**
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v435/Catalystic1/00009-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v435/Catalystic1/00010-1.jpg

 

[Adjuster]

It looks like you had something laying there that was wet, and rusted. (See the rust on the edge where your cam cover goes? The alloy would not rust, but whatever was laying there rusted, and also helped to cause rust on your cams, and the cam cap bolt too.)

I'd get it cleaned up with WD40 and a tooth brush, then rinse with brake cleaner, or carb cleaner, and then spray WD40 all over your cams, and any other metal parts that you are going to have laying open, or bagged like this. (I'm guessing you had that plastic over it right?)

The WD40 will help to stop the rust after you clean up what you can get off there with a tooth brush. I'd remove that rusted cam bolt, clean it up, and possibly replace it, if the rust is very deep. (But only if it's deep.) If it's just surface rust, and that's what it appears to be, clean it up, oil it up, and keep anything you don't want to rust oiled up while it's apart. (WD40 works great for this..)

Another thing you can do is take a cotton shop rag, soak it with WD40 spray, and leave it laying over the cams. (Might take about 3 of them.) This will help to keep oil there, and prevent moisture buildup on the cams/bolts etc. Check your valves, lifters/shims, locks and valve springs.. It appears there was quite a bit of water there, or someone spilled a pop? (Pop has salt in it, and the salt would cause rust like this very quickly..)

Good luck. And mist your parts with WD40 if your going to leave them sitting around for very long.

 

[Rennat]

thats actually a REALLY good idea about the rad and WD40... i was just spraying my head with WD40.. but the rag idea would make it a lot easier and would prevent a lot more than just sitting out in the open.

Thanks for the idea!

 

[gofastgeorge]

Find a good machine shop that has built a few of these motors before.
(Not easy, trust me.. they mostly don't know shit,
and will screw up perfectly good engines if
left alone to build one like a Chevy Small Block.)

Man, that is the Truth !:aigo:

 

[PPorting]

are you gonna rev this engine higher than stock redline? hows the bottom end built?