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think my crank and rods are trashed? can i just get it apart, check for deep scratches (the fingernail method, correct?) if that checks out a set of standard sized bearings, plastigauge, and a good torque wrench i can do this myself right?

the wierd thing is...i ran the car probably a total of 8-10 minutes (stretched out over about 2 days) with no knock. Then bam....knock knock knock

i honestly couldn't tell you Ian....my builder said he did it by the book...the book being the Chiton's i gave him. But the oil up around the filter housing (relocation kit) looks on the dark side, like black. I guess i won't know until i get it apart eh? :cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

really....well the oil i drained from the pan was quite merky...... and thats the only thing i can think of. Any other ideas of what caused this? Or why the oil was merky?

no idea...but they did..... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_dauber http://americanbeeremoval.com/images/MudDauberNest01.jpg

thier nests are made of a combination of MUD and thier saliva, nothing else...so my guess would be the broken up particles turned to mud in the oil and just from what i saw in the filter there are small chunks also...i bet that contaminated the oil and pushed the chunks through the bearings...

nothing that i knew of....the oil drain tube for the turbo WAS for maybe a week then i noticed it and plugged it up, that's when i found the single nest in the oil pan (before i put oil in it.)

looks like i'm not their only victim...from wikipedia- They do however pose a special risk to aircraft operation, as they are prone to nest in the small openings and tubes that compose aircraft pitot-static systems. Their presence in these systems can disable or impair the function of the...

thanks for the congrats....too bad i have to AT LEAST put new bearings in.

wonder how i can be SURE that all those are out.....i really don't want a full teardown...i was just hoping for a rebuild while the motor is still in the car...

well.....fuck my life.....found out that this is nothing short of rod knock.....i know this because i got the filter off today....shook it....head some rattling around inside of it. I dump it out to find this.... fucking mud dobbers.....anytime i had an open port in the engine i was sure...

well.....fuck my life.....found out that this is nothing short of rod knock.....i know this because i got the filter off today....shook it....head some rattling around inside of it. I dump it out to find this.... fucking mud dobbers.....anytime i had an open port in the engine i was sure...

well....went to change the oil and inspect the filter...so i drained the old oil....looked a little wierd for 10 or 15 minutes of running time, but i did use some of that oil dye (not more than recommended) so i think that might be the culprit...at least i know its the culprit to the little...

well....went to change the oil and inspect the filter...so i drained the old oil....looked a little wierd for 10 or 15 minutes of running time, but i did use some of that oil dye (not more than recommended) so i think that might be the culprit...at least i know its the culprit to the little...

Kudos!!!

adjusted within spec according to the tsrm.

its a brand new tps and its freshly calibrated i highly doubt it. but i'll double check, thanks for the replies so far guys.

i know this is off topic but do any of you know where i can get the sealing plate for the hks wastegate? i looked on their site and didn't get anything. Good luck to you kotu, i have a precision sc6152e with a .68 hot side and the ebay manifold too. I have an authentic gate but no sealing...

i have a pesky afm code that wont leave. So thats affecting the way the car runs, and this is the first time i've ran the car since the rebuild so.

I have a few questions here. I'm having some internal issues with my car right now that i plan to diagnose this weekend sometime. But i also had some other questions i needed answered. I have a code 51 51 Switch Signal Diagnosis * No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C"...