the prices you charge customers or what cx charges you? I've been looking at one of two 7mgte supra ic kits by cx racing and the one you sell in you vendor thread sells on eBay for $299 and your price is listed at $380....maybe they rape us with shipping I don't know:-(.
Definetly...
You'll like them untill the day they build a nest in a fuel line, oil channel, or intake of your car....it's happened before and rodknocked a forum members fresh built motor!
Another sunday night of work
got iscv mounted with new rubber gromet+gasket
iscv/throttle coolant lines situated
got valve shims situated
routed some vac lines
Tested hood fitment with my afpr+bracket....I need to change it as it does indeed hit the hood.
Pics...
Question #
1. The vsv that controls the fuel pressure regulator...is it acceptable to remove this when using an afpr when performing bpu's? What are the possible negitive effects if removed?
2. The two vsv's have different part #'s but are they interchangeable? I've noticed that with...
Question #
1. The vsv that controls the fuel pressure regulator...is it acceptable to remove this when using an afpr when performing bpu's? What are the possible negitive effects if removed?
2. The two vsv's have different part #'s but are they interchangeable? I've noticed that with...
I recomend you throw that OBX crank pulley away as it will cause your motor to eat it's own bearings! Hate to see you out so much work into your engine just for it to fail.
The oil, depending on the quantity, is either from the pcv system (normal) or if it's alot of oil blown turbo seals (not good).
It's typical to have a little bit of oil as the pcv (hard pipe that goes to the valve covers to throttle to accordian pipe infront of turbo) as that's the pcv's job...
Cy....I have a spare heat shield for the manifold if you want to use both....I also have the turbo heat shield...you have to remove the turbo to install the other shield. If you want them let me know.
You run the risk of washing down the cylinders with fuel.....your best bet is to do the break in on the dyno while tuning!
Break in takes about an hour or two on a dyno and your good to go.
Valve overlap is more of a na cam timing...not really so much on turbo as air is forced in instead of drawn in....you need to pressureize the whole intake all the way to the head as even injector O-rings can cause a boost leak.
Well if someone would invent a fucking rhym to make it easy such as "righty tighty...lefty loosey" then it would be much easier!!!
Damn loop operation and it's lack of song and dance!!!
Yes you need to cap the throttle port as you'll pressurize the whole engine and risk blowing your main seals....
Nothing wrong with adding a few more pounds as what if there is a weak spot that 15 pounds doesn't effect but may come loose while Rollin down the highway...
Make sure your...
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