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Is a new downpipe needed for this setup?

I would personally keep the MK3 because most people under-rate the car. This way you can inform others that there are more cars out there other than the ones on "The Fast and the Furious." Plus flip up headlights FTW.

Well I would still not hesitate to run the car to redline but just keep your clutch engagements smooth and dont beat on the clutch yet.

My understanding is that for 500 miles you just have to be easy on the clutch. Pretty much when you shift fully push the clutch in and then slowly releasing it so the parts seat nicely. As long as you drive it normally you will be good. Drag or road racing is a no no.

I would be really interested if you had a group buy on the T70. I am crossing my fingers that it will become a reality very soon.

Wow at is a great price for the turbo. I will definitely be calling you when I am ready to go single.

Also try the Search button as there are so many threads on this subject.

Well you should still send it to Aaron anyways because you can get it fixed and just sell that one when your done with it. Best of luck, I hope it fixes the problem.

Personally I would have just got Aaron to replace your caps because even on that used ECU off ebay the caps have probably not been replaced and can cause the same issue again.

So in other words I should just worry about the fuel map and not about the injector time scale to adjust the map. Also shouldn't it be 14%?

Fuel pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, 550cc injectors, single turbo, 3inch exhaust, intercooler, safc or standalone will get you to the 425rwhp mark. Pretty much you can't get there with stock twins is what I am saying. Also take a look at the build threads and the dynos to get a good idea...

Thanks man. I really want to find one locally because I can only imagine how much it would cost to ship to Canada.

They are the black things that look like tiny batteries and have 2 prongs going into the board. Its super common for them to wear out because they only have a limited life. Sounds like what happened to your car happened to mine. Hopefully you can find another ecu to test but I am pretty sure...

Take a good look at the caps. I believe there are 5 of them. Also even though they don't appear to be leaking out they could still be leaking. I sent my ecu to Aaron and from my eye there was nothing leaking but the values were messed on a few.

I wish it triggered via the speed signal but it is an input that is switched to run either off or on. So I decided today just to put a switch by the shifter and have my finger on it to turn it on and off. I know it may not be the nicest system but if I really like the launch control I will go to...

I am pretty positive this is causing your problems. My advise is to send the ecu to Aaron at Driftmotion. He will take care of you.

www.jzgte.com/images/tech/1jzecu_diagram.gif Try pin 17 or pin 23.

Just because the ECU doesnt look wrong doesn't mean it is. Try the new igniter and if that does not fix your issues try to borrow a friends ecu.

If you have no bearing in the flywheel the transmission shaft WILL NOT be held in by anything. So you need a bearing in order to hold the transmission input shaft in place.

The more you guys talk about cams makes me want them just that much more. For the price and the gains it seems like the best bang for your buck mod on the 1jz.