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Full coverage insurance? Flood damage is nothing to mess around with, it might look like nothing now but it will start many rust, electrical, and mold issues in the future. If you plan on fixing this yourself you need to rip EVERYTHING out of the interior. If the lower sound deadening material...

Yes, you need to adjust the threaded rod on the master pedal. In my case however, there wasn't enough adjustment and I had to install a shim behind the flywheel, as well as install a slightly longer slave rod.

No. http://www.arkdesign-us.com/

There were also 15x6.5 aluminum sawblades.

You're doing it the hard way. I've always found it much easier to just remove the two large nuts/bolts holding the bumper support on, unbolt the bumper from the fenders, lower corner brackets, and grills/center nose support bolts, then pull the whole thing off. Five minute job if it's not rusted...

Two words... Impul Silhouette. As for MazdaSpeed anything on a Supra, you could pull off a set of MS01, but MS02 makes you a doofus.

No, HIRO is much lower, longer and more round. I've had a HIRO and a Trust on my car and that looks exactly like the Trust modified to fit with the OEM center.

Most adhesives and fiberglass are a poor choice for this application. To do it correctly you should plastic weld it back together. If you don't have the tools and have never done this before, you're probably better off buying an OEM bumper or aftermarket bumper in better condition.

7M-GE plug wires. I don't see a point in mixing aftermarket parts though, since there were more parts made for the 1G than the 7M and 1JZ. For OEM parts that will not cross reference (distributor cap/rotor button/gaskets, etc.) Jay Marks could get everything last time I asked.

The STB in question is a bit over 1mm larger than my TT-R solid sway bar.

I saw this front end in blue sell about 12 months ago and missed the bid, sold for peanuts. So clean and so rare. :cry:

I drove to work with the rears, only minor rub on the body trim, fronts however would tear up in no time without additional camber.:rofl: 18x11 +10 O with 275/35/18 RT615.

Bringing this thread back from the grave so others can laugh at my lack of wheel fitment too... ...front rubs a little.:rofl:

I had a TRD clutch and PP behind my 1G, gone after less than a few years of use and I've been OS Giken ever since. Paying a penny more than similar aftermarket parts, for TRD parts, is a waste of money unless you had a new Toyota with a warranty. ...and $1200 for a TRD steering wheel? Let me...

I always love how that picture of the JIC bar almost covers up the factory subframe brace 2" in front of it. No, I watched three used Do-Luck RXB sell last month. The problem is that no one is going to pay the ending price of the brace plus shipping from Japan for an item that does nothing...

...the LHD wiper cowl drilled for RHD and missing dead pedal. "A" for effort but you should have gone 100% with the conversion, not half way.

It's already been answered, Erebuni or an Erebuni replica, AKA DP Sports. I once had the entire kit, very interesting as it covers the factory bumper instead of replacing it. Nice find!

I guess the picture changed or am I missing a link? All I can see in the ebay link is this LHD one,

That burgundy switch pictured is for LHD...:slap: ... and who ever paid $20 for a broken window switch is an idiot.

Nope, only digital-analog, I couldn't find a suitable female plug to fit them since they press the flexible circuit board to the gauge cluster instead of using normal pins.