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The stock clutch pedal has a spring that pulls the pedal all the way back up....how did you shorten the throw without custom stuffs? Even if you remove the master clutch cylinder completely the pedal still stays all the way up so in stock form travel would only be adjusted with a stop behind...

Grimsta can get it much cheaper so pm him:-) http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=KIT-7MGTE-STOCK-SET&Category_Code=ICKTY

Your best bet is the cxracing ic pipe kit...comes with what you need for all the pipes for less than $200 I believe

Not to be a dick but saying you buy from driftmotion and you're not cheap is an oxymoron...they are great people not knocking them but that is thier market...he'll I don't think driftmotion has $8000 worth of 7m products....who's counting? either way...an na stud is not special order and will...

Lmfao.....no contest means that the cop was right and that you're paying the ticket and accepting the points if any....dude you fail lol. If you want to go to court then "contest" the ticket....if you check "no contest" then you better have a damn money order mailed with that ticket!

You keep that pedal adjusted per tsrm threw out the life of the clutch...the sweet spot is where Toyota puts it...you can do what you wish but all you're gonna end up doing is reducing pedal travel which will reduce pressure plate travel or you'll put tension on the pp causing the clutch to...

This is spec....as you can see, no room or options for self gratification.. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=3 that rod has nothing to do with pedal force....that's your pressure plate that controls that:-)

Adjusting the rod won't change the force of the pedal only the distance it travels....spec is spec and if you want a heavier clutch pedal then you'll need a heavier clutch....ofcourse that comes with it's own set of problems such as crank walk, harsh enguagement etc....see the soft pedal is a...

You need a better scraper then....that isn't pitting it's left over gasket material! If it was pitting then it would pit in the coolant jackets and not all over the place.... Spend more time cleaning that block! Should look close to this or better....did this by hand on my 111,000 mile...

Dude has been using k&n filters for a long time and never had a problem....jetjock and research ain't got shit on "works for me" realtime data...:sarcasm::3d_frown:

Why are you making such an easy concept so damn difficult? Get the stud from Toyota, it's cheap and you'll have it in a day or so! Or get an adapter that is worth a damn like the mocal that bolts to the block like the stock system does.... If you're scared of spending $20 at Toyota for...

You don't adjust the push rod to "your liking" you adjust it per tsrm and you adjust to it...there is a tsrm spec for a reason..

I'd unbolt the flywheel....put sharpie marker all over the springs....lay disk down on the fw and turn it and see if it's rubbing... I'm on the same page as you believing it's the springs touching but I'm not 100%..

The disk is wearing on the outer edges so my guess is this has nothing to do with adjustment or hydrolics....Id like to see what a straightedge will show when set on the flywheel....I'd also like to see the disk resting on the flywheel without the pp.... I'm guessing that maybe they ground...

You could drive a car for the next 10 years without a filter and never see a problem....doesn't mean it's good:-) the whole "I never had a problem" mentality has got to go...gets old reading that nonsense:-(

-6 hose or 3/8ths"..... If you go full flow thermo controled oil cooler then use -10

Because they are a horrible at filtering and they use oil...our afm is very sensitive to contamination which cannot be cleaned!

That sucks man! Keep us posted.

Lol my mom is crazy....no I don't have pics actually....sadly she moved to Texas a few months ago.

No humor:-(