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Ambient temps in your area? Intact fan shroud? Under engine cover?

Also, can you describe the bubbles? Are they violent? How much coolant is being pushed out?

No, the turbo cannot do that. A faulty radiator cap could cause that. Did you replace or pressure test the cap?

If they are making a metal head gasket, then you can mix and match layers to get the thickness you want. If they are making a composite head gasket, then I cannot see any way it would hold.

It helps a lot that I have both a 7M and a 2J car sitting in my driveway. They are BOTH damn reliable.

No, CiFi6 has listed all the possible downsides.

I predict this will be a smoke machine!

Actually, I agree with him. As long as you are OCD about the assembly, it should be fine. Check your clearances, use assembly lube, keep everything clean, use the correct torque settings, and most importantly, walk away if you start to get frustrated... The 7M was the first engine I rebuilt...

There are other issues with the NA intake. Like for instance, the port for the idle air controller is in a different place. It's set up on the turbo model so that it never sees compressed air from post turbo compressor. On the NA model, every time you hit boost, the IAC will be trying to hold...

Another note on the power plant cost bit. If you take a decent condition Mk3, and build it into a reliable, high power machine, the 7M *will* be cheaper. However, the question of how much, and whether it's worth worrying about, is another matter. If you are going all in, you'll be building...

IMO, there are basically four categories of Mk3 owners - and only two of them are common. The *most* common are the folks that buy a Supra and keep it stock. They'll run into the occasional problem, but it's rarely going to be serious. If something as major as a BHG or rod knock rears it's...

Duane and Ron are both running something like that... and I think Ian (IJ) was running the authentic Motec unit.

There are a bunch of spots that will leak over time. Bottom of your rear window, the trim is bolted on, and chances are those bolts are leaking by now. Wiper seal will leak. Spoiler mounting points will leak. Hatch seal will leak. Tail light gaskets will leak. Antenna seal will leak...

Well, not exactly. It may have the same potential per litre, but that still puts it 17% behind the 2J.

Have you checked the torque on the front main damper pulley yet?

I'd suggest *not* driving it until you figure out what is causing the knock. If it really is a rod bearing, fixing it now means replacing some bearings and polishing a crank. If you keep running it, you can add a set of rods, pistons, and a new block to that.

If it's an auto, loose flexplates make the same sound, too.

Diagnosing a rod knock is easy. If you start the engine and pull the plug wire on the injured cylinder, the sound goes away. A loose front damper pulley makes the same sound. So does a loose flexplate on an automatic.

There is a VERY good chance I'll do just that, Adam. LOL - just looked up the price of windscreens from Toyota. Mine: $313.30 Nash: $1278.97 The difference? White cars come with a bronze tint... that evidently costs nearly $1000 over the rest. Just another reason why nobody should buy white.

Well, firstly, I'm aware that there are certain things you just don't want to see. Secondly, I'm at work, and everything I do is logged and, in many cases, blocked. So I'm going to use the better part of valor and walk away this time.