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7M's are bought by stupid owners... He said "coolant steam out of the overflow", not "stream out of the overflow". Yes, any leak could let air back in, which could eventually make it's way out of the overflow as the system cycles. He also has no thermostat. That's a BIG problem right...

Do you have "no t-stat" symptoms instead of BHG symptoms?

Actually drilling the rear passage was discussed on supras.com back in '99-'00 and was originated by Lance Wolken back in the mid 90's on his blue '87T. My personal results are, nothing. Heat still works like it did before. If anything it does seem easier to bleed. With the stock t-stat...

This to me is not a *defacto standard* build sheet for a 1000hp 7M. A lot of the stuff on the list is not needed or overdone. It might be the way *you* would build one, but not what's required.

Where in Ohio are you? Flying lead harnesses aren't that difficult. Qwikstrike - it would have been about the same work for you to retype that w/out caps.

Perhaps you guys that have grinding problems are attempting reverse too quickly after disengaging the clutch or not disengaging it far enough so the input shaft is still turning, or trying while the car is moving so the output shaft is turning. The clunk is normal, esp if you do drag the clutch...

Yeah lets be real here guys, on a street car sumps, fuel cells, and surge tanks aren't that feasible. I looked at these options many years ago but decided I prefer to keep the trunk (for targa stow-age), back seats (sure, nobody will ever use them but they look good - always garaged black...

I've not had any problems with 25psi at 7-7500rpms on C16. The problems are all lower in the rpm band. Realize most of the mk4's running the AEM EMS are setup for wasted spark since the AEM EMS has only 5 coil drivers. IIRC not all are available on the output board due to all of the vsv's and...

Just think of the anti-theft possibilities if one could "program" forward and reverse in such a way. LOL!

Try letting the clutch out (engage) in neutral, then clutch in (disengage), then reverse. Then grab the TSRM and study the manual transmission to understand what is really happening. Sometimes hitting one of the other gears will turn the input shaft enough to align the reverse cogs but so will...

I just push the clutch in and move the shifter to reverse. Works every time unless the clutch is stuck. :nuts: The only thing you are doing that should make any difference is turning the input shaft. All of those steps are a waste as they are just being erased by the last neutral/clutch...

Ahh yes, those damned mk4 owners and their easy access fuel pumps. We've done 87x rwhp and 9.88@144 on two walbro's tho (in a mk4). I thought there were -8 or -10 Y blocks, or maybe it's -8-10 on the outlet and two -6's for the inlets. Actually I do remember he had two -6's in to the tank. He...

I had to cut away the lip on my tank to fit two walbro 340's. Like Dave I'm not saying how to avoid any issues. Three...LOL. Good luck.

The stock igniter isn't that bad but it's really only compatible with the 7M TCCS. No standalone has the logic to feed the correct signals to the stock igniter. You cannot switch to sequential ignition without changing to six coils, some sort of igniter, and hacking the AEM EMS #10 inj driver...

All of the above. Oil filled gauges will change with temperature due to the pressure differential inside the gauge body. Many manufacturers and resellers note this on their website. Vacuum, actually, idle will change for lots of reasons, varying vacuum.

Someone did this a long time ago (like 8-9 yrs) but with a normal Y block. He had a one-way valve on the "draw straw" too. This was going to be my way until the Walbro 255 become readily available around the time I was building my fuel system (~6 years ago). He used the stock pump for his...

Brake bleeders are M7x1.0 and smaller than the clutch. I've measured the hex as 10mm and the minor of the threads up near the head (possibly/likely the shoulder) as 9.43mm. I'm guessing M10x1.0 based on some really rough measurements but wanted more than a guess before buying a handful of...

Thanks, sorry. Had multiple browsers open on supramania and didn't pay attn to which one I started the thread from.

Does anyone know what size the threads are?

Same here, torqued to stock spec, no problems. (Hint: use the proper sized screwdriver to avoid stripping them) You may have to retorque them a couple of times until the rubber washers crush and seat. Most overdo it here.