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and right now I'm well set on plugs...

Straight by the book = stock = 232rwhp not enough for me :) The stock plugs are made to last a long time at the expense of a weaker spark.

6.8psi isn't really much boost at all. I never heard my stock bypass valve until I turned up the boost. Too many other noises drowned out the pathetic woosh.

NGK BCPR6EP-N8 is what the TSRM recommends. I'm rather partial to NGK BCPR7ES. I've tried the Autolites before, they worked great for about 4,000 miles. So I'm back to NGK.

FYI I've got the ACT clutch and Fidanza flywheel and they work perfect for me.

What boost level are you running? Unless your exhaust is really loud you should at least hear a small whoosh when you shift or let off the gas.

americanjebus that's the cars ambient air temperature probe. Used for the AC system.

If it's TPS it will show a code.

You could try bleeding again. Make sure the reservoir doesn't get low during the bleeding process or you'll suck in air.

You may have to remove it in pieces. I would keep trying with the screwdriver.

Check your engine error codes.

It is possible to bypass, you'll just need the wiring diagram for your year Supra to figure out which wires to connect.

There's really nothing special about the 91-92 "boxes" It's simply a bracket that lets you bolt the speakers into the door. There's no box or anything, just a dinky bracket anyone could make. It really does help with sound though, much nicer mids.

Clutch disc only needs to move a little to grab and let go. Which way did you face the bulge in the clutch disc when you installed it?

The e-01 when connected to the e-Manage can display KV signal, otherwise it's limited to boost, rpm, throttle, and anything you've got connected to the external harness. As for why Toyota placed the limit there, as I explained earlier it's not really a limit of any one particular part. It's...

Car won't go into gear when running but will go into gear while the car is off? Offhand I'd say the clutch disc is in backwards or you've got a hydraulic issue. Take the inspection cover plates off and make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork in sufficiently. Also try putting it in...

I've seen it done, looked alright. Just don't bring the pipe out far, leave it tucked a few inches under the car. The worst part of the look IMO was the lack of a muffler in the back.

Just don't plug the barbs coming out of the cam covers. The one on the throttle body and accordian hose you must cap.

The reason you set the timing to 10 with T1 and E1 jumpered is to establish a baseline. Once you remove the jumper the ECU will custom tailor the timing based on temperature, altitude, warmth of engine, etc. What it does after you remove T1 and E1 makes no difference, leave that alone, all...

And the reason MR2's use a boost sensor to determine boost instead of their AFM *drumroll* because they get a dinky flapper door afm. Toyota, what were you thinking? The Starlet in Japan, a little econobox turbo, got a MAP setup. Why did the Supra, MR2 and Celica All-Trac get jacked?