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Of course the inner lip of the crank seal rides on the timing gear. But the gear still should slide off and on by hand. The timing gear and the crank pulley IE: harmonic balance are held on by the crank bolt. Not a "press fit"

The timing gear and crank pulley are both supposed to slide off and on by hand. They are held on by the crank bolt. IE: no interference fit. However corrosion can build up over time making them hard to remove. You should clean crankshaft snout and the holes of both with some fine emery cloth...

My guess is that it will soon start pushing coolant out the overflow.

Have you tried bleeding the master cylinder only? IE: Crack one line at a time push and hold down brake pedal then tighten line and repeat several times on each line. . I have seen air get trapped there and not go through entire system. If that does not work you should go a get a brake...

BTW Curt at Elmhurst Toyota Sells stuff to members of the "other" place at wholesale prices.

Contact Curt at Elmhusrt . He is the Supra man and they give discounts.

D e a l e r

I would recommend OEM Toyota gaskets and valve stems seals. I would also use only Toyota hoses. Yes they cost lots of money however they fit correctly and last a long time. I bet a lot of stuff on your car are OEM at 20 plus years old. A lot of people say I am "stupid" because there Fleay...

I would do something novel and check for power and ground. The ground screws come loose all the time. How do you know "all the bulbs are fine"?

Have you ever checked your booster to master cylinder clearance. Based on your original complaint it could have been a smiggen to long. Like holding the brake pedal down slightly. Made since, only happens at max thermal expansion. It really needs checked if you use a different master...

If your throttle body is 88' or older it has a real idle adjust. Idle air bypass screw is under a rubber plug on top of throttle body. Sometime it may require a minor adjustment. Dash pots can fail.

It looks like DM sells a rebuild ct 26 with out a core. Just $650. I would do this any day over the ebay turbo. The best part of owning a MKIII is driving it. Good luck.

It is best to pull cam covers to verify valves are closed. I would still fix TCCS faults first. Good luck. Sorry you are have problems. Heck since you already have tool go ahead and do leak down test.

Not trying to be a "ahole". I find it confusing how #1 and #6 could both be on compression stroke at the same time? Plus I cannot see how these codes could be caused by 100% leak down. I do wish you luck with your problems.

Are you sure you know how to use a leak down tester? I

If the shifter knob is leather covered and mint I will pay good money for it. Please let me know.

I will cost $1000 to get them all new. I bet you cannot get a complete set in the same color. Be patient and wait for a set in the "forsale" section or ebay. I have a spare used set that I am setting on. Paid about $200 a years or so ago. Good luck. BTW buy the 89' and up. Plastic and...

Have you tried wd40 and pull off by hand? If it wont come off you can tap the two holes and use a puller. Can't remember if it takes a 6 x1.0 or 8x 1.25 tap. Do not pry on gear and damage the front ring!!!!

You can go to napa and have them mix up a spray can of any color you want. Most paint stores can do the same thing. Not cheap. $50 -75 per spray can. My front bumper was touched up with the closest we could find at autozone. About 30% of bumper was painted. Cannot hardly tell. The blue...

You should have used clay on top of piston and rotate cams carefully feeling for resistance. Of course if it gets hard to turn, stop. Remove head and measure the clay .