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hell, i'd design one, but i doubt anyone would be willing to pay for it ;)

thought i saw one with a swivel-type quickrelease mounted in the centre of the top? you could make your own with something like this: just make a reciever that is attached above the windshield, and attach the clamp to the targa. edit: ah, i remember.... sad to say... remember in F&F1, when...

i dont get it? maybe im just slow today... so these screw in place when you have the targa off? as for quick release, check how the MKIV targa works, you could probably make something similar.

evga sucks. i bought a 7800GT from them, it was broken out of the box, artifacts everywhere. they didnt want me going through the store i bought it from for replacement, so i went to them directly. took 3 weeks to get a replacement card.... and it didnt work out of the box, same problem. evga...

adding depth greatly increases the cost, as it is currently 1/2" aluminum stock. the thicker you get, the more material required, and the more machining required. if theres not alot of interest for this, do people have any ideas for parts they would like to get CNC machined? if you have an idea...

just for your info on the discounts: 20 people = ~$75 25 = around $68 50 = around $58 so if we can get a big group of people, it gets very cheap. I'm willing to take suggestions on the design, I do this for a living. Check the work I did on this triple screen unit: http://vrx.ca/new_products.php

if more people want 60mm, thats what we can go with

I'm wondering if anyone would be interested in a billet aluminum gauge holder, for two 52mm gauges to be mounted behind the steering wheel. Here is the initial design: An M4 socket head cap screw would be used to clamp the gauges in places. Two M6 threaded holes on the bottom would be...

i got slow response to emails, but my flares arrived in perfect condition.

ha.... well nashman sent me this. makes sense to me. the solenoid is spliced into the stock wiring, so you only need a single wire going from the back of the car to the front. for the solenoid, i think he means something like this...

i vote cobra! http://www.factoryfive.com/rdsterhome.html

$22k to spend? build your own car: http://www.factoryfive.com/gtmhome.html

lbf-ft is the proper imperial unit IIRC? (lbf being pounds force, which is NOT the same as lbm = pounds mass) N-m is so much simpler to use ;)

i found lots of sets, ranging from $20 each to over $100 each. just gotta search around...

exactly. maybe if someone draws up a diagram, we can post it in the FAQ section....

can you post a diagram of the proper way to do it? this thread is a bit confusing, and i will be relocating my battery in the next few days (NHRA-approved batt box, switch, etc)

http://www.prosportgauges.com/shiftlights.php scroll down to "metric adapter kit". how about those? you can retap with one of the standard metric sizes, and it has a 1/8 NPT thread on the inside.

if its an NPT tap, it will be tapered. if you run the tap THROUGH the hole completely, you probably took off all of the taper in the hole. if thats the case, most auto parts stores would have a larger fitting, so you could redrill and tap with say a 1/4" NPT.

here you go

unplug the alternator, release tension on the belt (small nut underneath the alternator), unbolt the alt from the lift bracket (on the top) and the tensioner (on the bottom, by the small nut). very simple, you will need 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm wrenches and sockets i think. its pretty simple.