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Excessive oil getting into any cylinder will definitely cause a misfire. thesupraman, that coil harness is actually still available from Toyota and it's actually pretty cheap, somewhere around $10.

GReddy BCC will not, HKS FCD will.

I have seen a couple Supras where the oil pressure sending unit was at fault. They're fairly cheap from JW, just hard to replace. IMO the real fault is the whole system is 1980's technology and you'll never get a good oil pressure reading off the stock gauge. A nice aftermarket unit is my...

Vibration in the pedal doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong with the motor. Usually it's as northsupra said, some component of the exhaust rubbing on the chassis, tranny or rear subframe. Maybe you're just getting used to the power. 12psi isn't all that spectacular, you'll get used to...

I've seen the vibration/torque dampener on early 89's as well, the ones with the square motor mounts.

1. Maybe it's because it's 3am, but I can't see any cracks 2. Junkyard, they usually last a long time 3. engine vibration/torque dampener

I even wrote a thesis on boost leaks :) http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/techtips/boostleak.html

The housing should be fine.

Oil in the IC pipes can be either turbo seals or PCV. If you haven't touched your PCV system that is probably what's making the oil. As SupraBlues said, when the turbo seals let go the car will smoke like crazy, especially during deceleration and idle when vacuum in the manifold is greatest...

Yes the ECU is grounded by a few brown and white wires that connect to an eyelit that bolts to the intake manifold.

Code 52 is knock sensor which will definitely make the car run slow. But until the CEL comes on you should have normal power. Really it sounds like a boost leak. I don't know what turbo you're running, but with the Lexus you should be able to hit much higher then 11psi. Check the IC pipes...

That depends on which way your play is. If it's in every direction then it's probably wheel bearings. If it's only a certain direction it's a suspension component like ball joint or control arm bushing failure.

Just for grins did you try grounding the e-brake wire from the TT and see if it works?

I had one track day on my ES-100's and they looked almost as bad as kylemartin's. Overall the tire started out great but the performance faded over time, especially in the rain. They also got noisier as the miles got on. I got about 16k out of the front and 13k out of the rear. Overall the...

You might as well take the radiator out, it's two bolts and two hose clamps and it opens up a lot of room. If you have to use a pulley puller you'll need all that room, and you don't want to accidently damage your radiator while you're working down there. I've had my upper timing cover off...

I went from an upgraded O2 housing and full 3" mandrel DP to the DDP. I had to turn the boost controller down to make the same amount of boost, but there was definitely more power from just the DDP. The sound is only louder at full boost. I can still drive around quietly and even boost up a...

Sounds like you might have a boost leak. The first thing to do is check the first intercooler pipe from the bottom of the turbo. You're looking for any crack or hole in the pipes, anything that under pressure might leak. Second check the short piece of rubber that connects the 3000 pipe to...

Since you do have the Lexus AFM I'd bank on your ECU relearning. Every Lexus install I've seen required the ECU to relearn everything, so the first day or so of driving was low idle and general misbehavior. But just for the fun of it, go through every harness on the car (especially TPS, AFM...

I've seen the Redline fluids work miracles, it's worth a shot and you can always reuse the fluid.

Make sure your turbo timer e-brake wire is connected securely to the car's e-brake wire, or grounded securely. In fact unplug and plug all the harnesses back and make sure they're all snugly in.