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mmmm pretty

on the other hand, it could be a good Darwin award ;) jk

I don't see how saying he didn't use a compressor and then him suggesting NOT to do it that way is implying that it is ok? Anyways, I used a crappy $10 spring compressor when I did mine, they were the ones people use to compress or spread truck springs IIRC. Didn't really do much, but nothing...

motors are cheap, probably find one for $500-600 from a wrecker. but depends on your goals, sometimes it's worth spending the extra money to buy a car thats in better condition.

you could use Schedule 40 4" pipe, it is 4.5" OD with a .237" wall thickness (4.5 - .237 - .237 = 4.026" ID). It would be heavy, but for tuning it may be your best bet. Plumbing supply stores should sell it. for reference, pipe and tube standard sizes...

http://www.yellowpages.ca/search/si/1/hydraulic/calgary/rca-00691400-Hydraulic-Equipment-Supplies%C2%B2rci-Calgary

any hydraulics shop will sell it. it isn't specific "an6" hardline, it's just 3/8" tubing. an8 is 1/2", etc. You will need to buy an tube nuts and sleeves to connect the hard line to a regular an fitting. many people run soft lines, but they will cost more than hardlines. soft lines are easier...

found this, seems like an interesting concept: http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=496793 seems like they just put them wherever it fits on the car. to get it exactly right is going to take a bunch of math, but you could always put a T into your exhuast at a convenient...

i ran cut springs with koni shocks, was ok. but as has been posted, springs are so cheap, it's worth saving the extra money and doing it properly.

looks like the MC might be the same http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4702&P=1 unless the "W/*66" means ABS?

are you prepping the block for the MHG? you will need shims for the valves, but if you take all of the ones from both heads, you may not need to buy more. are you running bigger cams? new springs are good, maybe upgrade to the BBC springs (I think SIP selling them as a set for the 7M).

I think it was Precision Turbo with the anti-surge housings that we were talking about, but there may be others. I also wouldn't do this on a stock throttle body, aftermarket ones (BBK, etc) may be able to deal with the abuse.

I talked with nashman about this awhile back, he did some research and some turbo manufacturers state their turbos can handle the pressure surge from running no bov. Obviously it won't work on a CT26, but people should talk to actual turbo manufacturers before saying it is/is not ok to do...

what if you have an aftermarket throttle body (BBK for a mustang in my case)? Should I still plumb a line to the catch can as jdub posted? Pre or post throttle plate?

thanks!

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001airtemp+Tp+

the air temp sensor, it's a GM part I believe, with a 3/8" NPT thread. Tightened all the way in, it currently sits flush with the inside of the pipe. link to the sensor: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+CartId+%7B3D61EVEREST628C-CB54-4B2E-8258-AD4854B95E25%7D+ic+001airtemp+Tp+...

so does the sensor need to be in the air stream?

I have a bung epoxied onto my IC piping for the air temp sensor. The problem is when I screw in the sensor (it's 3/8" NPT tapered thread), the sensor is sitting about flush with the inside of the pipe. It doesn't actually go into the air stream. Is this okay, or should I put a new bung on...

why use a banjo bolt at all? why not a straight fitting or adapter? carb adapters that straight threads and an extended AN fitting, something like this: http://summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2110/