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ALL of them. Don't forget the turbo coolant hoses and the small hoses that run up from under the intake to the throttle body and ISCV. If you see anything that looks like it'd be a bitch to get to while in the car, replace it.

I'd replace the headgasket while the engine is out of the car. Pull the tranny with the car, it will make your life easier. Replace coolant hoses while engine is out.

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that diff is bad after all the power and torque it has received in the past. Mine is bad and clunks, vibrates, pops when turning and drones like a bitch going down the highway.

I vote Shaftmasters as well. I've got a steel one piece for my 91 auto. There is a noticeable difference in acceleration. Now if only my diff wasn't shot, it would be smooth as silk. Their service is top notch.

The leather is black, the cloth is shadow gray as well as the dash and rest of the plastic trim inside the interior. Scott aka Forced Torque has the perfect example of a shadow gray interior as his is cloth. Scott let's see some pics!

91 and 92 are the exact same.

Sweet car. I saw Granada in the title and first thought of this. The American version of the Granada

I must have one. Maybe in 20 years I can pick one up for $3500 bucks. Looks a lot like what the "new" Supra was supposed to be.

I think he is going for an Aston Martin look. Nonetheless >>:: facepalm ::

George is awesome. :icon_bigg

It was the actuator. Replaced this morning and it works again. ::w00t::

Oooooh, me likey a lot!:love: On top of the modulator is a P and a Q. P attaches to a nipple off the lower right side of the intake and Q attaches to the top of the EGR valve itself.

It didn't feel harsh or rough, just loose. I drove to Dallas today to consult with Christian, the supra guru of DFW and he is pretty much of the opinion the diff is probably shot. He described the vibration as "droning" which is a good way to put it and felt like it was coming from the rear...

Here is a little video of what Ian suggested. Also I'm about to drive over to Dallas to have a supra pro take a look at it. He has suggestions and opinions about this as well. So here's the video. http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a227/gtsfirefighter/?action=view&current=1029091020-01.flv

I've heard that a lot. Why do I always have to be the first. :biglaugh: Now I feel obligated to find/fix the issue for the sake of all supra owners. I'm nowhere near ready to throw that shaft in a box and send it back yet. Ok, back to the garage to jack the car up and crawl underneath...

Just to clarify...what kind of play will I be looking for? Rotational play or back and forth play?

I'll have to do that tomorrow when I get home from work. How much play, if any, am I looking for for it to be considered bad?

I'd be all about the JB Weld too. You wouldn't have to remove the head but you'll have to remove just about everything off of it. So how's the headgasket? Might be a good time to replace it if you decided to replace the coolant pipe.

While the car was up on jack stands and the new shaft attached, I put the car in park and tried moving the wheels back and forth. There was virtually no slack to be felt and if there was it was less than 1/4 inch. My car has 145k miles on it. So it felt pretty tight. I do still get that grinding...

Well I ordered a steel single piece driveshaft from Shaftmasters. The first one they sent was too long. I called David and they made a new one and shipped it the same day. I got it today, and it bolted up with no issues. I then take it for a drive and the initial response was awesome. However...