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@trofimovich Just for information... currently there are exactly ZERO manufactures that make engine seals that are vacuum rated for the 7M. SKF is the closest but they do not make vacuum rated seals. Those specific engine seals have to be custom made.

Not much choice. Probably cut the flange off a good pan and weld away.

Good ole Weiss/PRC 5 stage dry sump pump. Probably also has the hex adapter in the rear (judging by the discharge pipe on the rear).

Well lets clear something up. There are no cars with Brake by wire capabilities. The have Electric assist which is what replaces the vacuum but in a complete loss of power, the ibooster does the exact same thing that the vacuum booster does, no assist. It is still mechanically driven. It...

I am not sure why there is a fascination with brake progressiveness. No company screws with that after it went to production. Bosch touts that because they have the software to do that. For us mere mortals, that means cracking the encryption Bosch uses to protect all that info which will not...

2k vs 900. ;) I did it out of curiosity. The 8HP is great transmission and would take the same amount of tinkering. As mentioned by forever, for the 8hp (and any of the high gear count transmissions) requires tossing the OEM TCU in favor of the HGT or other form of TCU. Funny enough, one guy in...

Pricing... Both will need to get the OEM TCU tossed in the garbage and replaced with an HTG TCU.

no way. It is 4 inch concrete slab. We did not build the house so looking at all the options, we are going with a ductless setup to cover all season. Just need to insulate the garage door and one of the walls since the rest is finished (sheet rocked and taped).

so while SM was in the ether... Created the following; Brake Booster Adapter for the Bosch Ibooster (Gen1) from a Tesla S. Already have them out in the field Currently working on a transmission adapter to mate a 7 Speed DCT from a BMW M5 to the 7mGTE. They exist for the 2jz but the 7m...

Another old timer poking around? :)

very nice production! Great work!

ummm, careful with line honing the head as there is a something like babbit on the cam holders (captures and crap) so that will need to be replaced after line honing. Also make sure the head is not annealed.

Intersting! Back in the day i ran a Tanabe exhaust with a Random Tech hi-flow cat. The fitment was spot on... i wonder if it was because of the Random Tech cat???

Did you verify that you tapped the correct wires with the VPC and you did not accidentally cut the wires (especially with the age of the cars, that is a more than likely scenario)?

if you are doing that, it might be better to build your own than to isolate and remove unwanted wires. a long time ago I removed the entire main harness from in cabin and motor and trust me (back at that time I was running a Motec M800 + PDM32), it was easier to build a new one.

you are really not multiplexing :) you are speaking of the waste-fire config. I come from the airplane world where multiplexing meant, 1 wire, multiple signals based on either a digital parameter (canbus, flexray etc) or analog (not used but before it was). the stock ignition was three wire...

do not do it. I took that main harness apart and I was able to isolate the wiper system and cruise control. The main electrical harness has way to many y junctions and other dependancies that will make the harness worthless. you might as well build your own.

milspec circular connectors, unless you force the connectors and bend pins, the wire will fail before the connector.

blue looking at exhaust (which means please be careful, that means you are breathing the CO and CO2). Might have some oil on it also. first order of business, get that damn exhaust leak fixed.

well the correct was to fix that key way.... take off crank and either replace it or have some steel welded there, grind nose down, keyway re-ground and new again. both are pricey options though.