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I am not. what I will tell you that those AutoX folks on stock sized rotors, regardless of pads will see massive amount of brake fade. That is the rotors fault not the pads. Basic physics 101. P.S. I quit sinking money into "the Black Hole" a LONG time ago.

***<== Brushes dust off this old account. I can tell you why... It is age but more importantly. as time goes by, the money to keep these cars running, rebuilt etc is getting higher and higher. Hell I did the math... I could have been rolling around in a Lambo Gallardo for the amount of cash I...

As was mentioned. you either do it right or don't do it at all. In case of AutoX. BBK. end of story. The wheels are to small? Sorry, that is an excuse. Should have thought about that prior to purchasing said wheels. You either do it right the first time or you will have plenty of time and...

Hmmm Please Reread and let it sink in.

if using E85 and sitting the car for extended period. drain it. if filling tank up weekly. No time for water absorption.

The FCD is needed ONLY in ONE VERY SPECIFIC configuration. Only if you purchased and installed HKS VPC HKS GCC then you add the FCD accordingly. For all OTHER configurations. FCD is not needed.

The Old FCD With the VPC and for adjustability the GCC. Yummy alphabet soup! Folks, the FCD was introduced when HKS had the 7m drag supra. waaayyyy back (25+ years ago). At that time, the stand alone computer. No such animal save for a electromotive and other ford/chevy "ECU".

having a huge temp drop is not a good thing also. BALANCE. You want the T-stat to do its job. You want the fan to do its JOB. Both are a part of a system. Have a fan that can drop temps 100 degrees in 1 second does no one to include the engine ANY good.

you can. I have yet to see one get to 40k mile much less 70k. That is long term as that is what the CT usually last in OEM form.

It is not what you like. It is what your tuner likes OR what learning curve it has. As an example. MoTeC is where the buck stops but the learning curve for that is huge. 4d tables. Input assignments remote boxes and how they communicate with the ECU. MoTeC is KING because it is so silly...

Of course, ALL that for not if you are running a "cold air intake" and ingesting copious amount of preheated air that passed through the radiator!!! even hotter temps at that point.

eeewww. fork the $ over and avoid "upgraded" CT anything. I have yet to see one survive long term. They ALL grenade in short order.

hmmm with todays current tech and still running those god aweful Low-Z 1200cc/min injectors? yuck! You can almost forget doing flex fuel with those are there idling is a horrendous steaming pile. For E85 ONLY they will work. What standalone will be controlling them?

H1?? seriously? The point of HID is to have the SHARP clear cut off. H1 housing unless they did some monkeying around or came OEM like that does not have the cut-off needed for PROPER HID retrofit. That is unless you like to be an pogue and blind oncoming traffic with glare and crappy...

easiest way to tell without warming engine up, take a lighter to the "coil" on the front of the fan-clutch. you will see it bind, it will get to a point where when you try to spin the fan it will resist but still spin, definetly not freewheel though.

NOOOOOOO!! Just like everything else, size matters but not in the way you guys are thinking! Too big a TB and it literally becomes an on/off switch in the lower TP%. Bucking and bronco-ing. Too small and the top end suffers. Personally I would not go above 90mm on a cable driven TB. On DBW...

Yep the crankshaft bolt has to be turned down to about 45mm (A very OLD thread.. jdub turned it down to 1.804" and it fit perfectly). That it how it has been from prototype to now.

All it takes is less than 30 seconds to pop the engine. 5 months is an eternity. Literally, crank the wick to much. Pop. Crappy gas. pop. Crappily maintained cooling system...pop and Coolant smoke.

First order of Business... Get HKS FCD, put in your nearest trash bin. Do not ever install in your supra again. With that done. Now check ALL your wiring. More than likely the crimps are crap. So inspect that. Probably solder them together. Avoid using crimpers from NAPA autoparts. ;)

that right stainless is for sissies Ian used Inconel for the valve. Takes the heat and better corrosion inhibition than stainless ;)