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Thing is, transstar industries still sells ALL the individual components, although i know Raybestos Blue plates have been discontinued and replaced with something else. Presumably this kit contains all the gaskets & seals needed to replace the parts that are included. Either way - to replace...

After reading up, it looks like the people saying OMFG NOOO DONT USE IT - are people that haven't done a flush, but just a drain and refill...thus mixing fluids.

Should be - i doubt the transmission has ever been fully flushed, just drain/refill. I have my eye on another 7M-GTE A340E for £220 as a 'just in case', but it's been otherwise fine except the last 2 months. Final question i guess...and it's been asked so many times before, but i KEEP hearing...

Not a clue. There's no history on this car from the dealership.

So, my Blue DD Auto is behaving strangely, transmission wise. Seems sluggish at light throttle, but will happily take off like a stabbed rat if i give it more throttle (not stomping, clean movement to the floor). It doesn't seem to slip as the engine speed increases with RPM's but at slow...

When i was about 9/10 my dad taught me to drive in a Lancia Delta 1500 - was fun...until he tried to overcorrect for me, and rammed the front wing into a concrete pillar...by 12 i was already outside with the socket set repairing our family VW cause he couldn't be bothered....fitted a Weber...

Was looking at this on eBay - how comprehensive is this, and would it be enough to do a proper enough, but basic job? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170536709461 And secondly, is it something that's doable in your garage with the right tools, as the manuals make it...

The gauges should work okay, although you may have to play with the tacho to get it to play nice with the 2JZ electronics - GE to GTE usually needs a resistor change.

'ello mate - nice to see you on here - hows the rust/shell work coming along? :)

No. You need to be connected to the body harness to get it to start - some things for the Fuel Injection system run through the dashboard. And the Auto ECU will work with it, as long as you jump the neutral start switch.

Sounds like you want to just plug and play. No. It's not like dropping in a replacement like-for-like engine - the M and JZ series are different, totally. You'd need a custom harness made up to mate the 2JZ electronics & ECU to the body electrics. Regardless of the type of 2JZ it is -...

Arch rebuilds always welcome - the American's don't know what we deal with :D

Venom injectors? Avoid at all costs unless they're flowtested and VERIFIED as being 550cc. Even then i still would think twice about using them in a build - too many horror stories out there about them. Choose a good brand, like RC. These are more like what you need...

No. Just, no. What you've heard, is wrong. The Lexus LS400 (1UZ-FE) injectors are SMALLER than the 7M-GTE ones. The AFM however, is exactly 25% larger than the one fitted to the 7M-GTE. Stock Injectors on a 7M-GTE are 440cc. If you fit the Lexus AFM, you require the same percentage increase in...

I did see the word 'exciting' and found it to be sarcastic at best. If you found my comment insulting, then i apologise, and we shall move on from there. Now as a more formal welcome - post up some pictures of your ride :)

In the US, you can't go 20 miles without tripping over a machine shop. Here, the only ones i know of, are in Rennes (80 mile round trip) or Dinan (roughly the same distance). In both cases, they just charge a lot of money. They don't really cater for anything other than tractor engines, due to...

The stock gauge is crap - don't put too much stock in what it says. Measure with a proper gauge hooked up.

$75 for you, maybe. Here, it costs more like $350 and it's nearly a 2 hour round trip to drop it off, even if i trusted the guy. The head, i cleaned by hand, checked with the straight edge and feelers as per TSRM. It wasn't going to get machined either - insane cost of $200+, and the minimum...

Ehh....i'm using a stock gasket with ARP's. Used a straight edge & feelers to verify it wasn't warped, and made sure the oil pan and passageways were devoid of any 'crap' that may have fallen in. Note, i'm not endorsing that method, just explaining what *i* did. When i originally asked about how...

I used a twisted wire brush on an angle grinder. Cleaned it in minutes. Then went over it with a sanding block & wd40 in several grades from 240 to 1200.