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It's very flexible, but if you're already scraping a naked bumper, no lip will stand up to that--unless it is made of high-carbon steel. Ooooh--look at the sparks!

I ran across this the other day--and yes, it's a universal lip, but for $25, I think it's a viable alternative to going naked or paying hundreds for a fiberglass chin. The original lip on my '89 is still in great shape but I couldn't resist ordering this to keep on hand in the event anything...

Meticulous. Nice!

Well, the easiest way to get an idea of how they would look is to Photoshop my pic. Otherwise, you would have to hand paint those cross-members, which as you say, would be a lot more work.

I ran across this old thread while looking for something else and thought I would revive it with a shot of my machined sawblades. I had Wheels America do them with blacked out vents about three years ago and they look just as good today. I think this mod looks vastly supra-ior ;) to the...

...And people call me anal about my Supra!! If you're going to detail her again after all that, I have to bow to a true master!:bowdown: Congratulations on your find and all the restoration--now I have to get out the touch-up paint and do some corrections of my own!

Okay, now I'm really confused. I did the test just like you said hvyman--I started with the positive terminal hooked to the red wire. Window went "clunk" and then nothing. I reversed the poles and got another clunk. Not to be deterred by initial failure, I went back to the original...

Not particularly. I looked at that diagram before but I'm not fluent in wiring trouble shooting. My best guess is that you stick the ends of an ohm meter in the connector holes but I've got no clue what the diagram is telling you to look for. Is it saying that if you short-circuit pins 1 & 2...

That's what I was hoping to hear. Is there a reference to ensure I'm looking at the correct connector and how to do the test with it?

Check your rubber stops on the hatchback. If they're worn down, they allow the hatch to rattle just a little depending on the road surface or the natural vibration at idle. It drove me crazy for years before someone here suggested the stops as a possibility. This thread will show you what...

Hi everyone. I'm looking to test the driver’s power window motor by hooking it directly to the battery. I would rather not commit myself to a complete door tear-down if the motor is good. Here is the issue: Rolled down the driver's window. It went down as smooth as always. When I pushed...

My complements on the sweet sawblades! They looked chromed vs. machined like mine. Either way they are so much better than the original dull gray.

Nothing too strenuous. I ordered and changed the worn out rubber stops on the hatchback. I finally had enough of that occasional rattle from somewhere "back there" over the last several years. Ordered from toyotaonlineparts.com--including four new screws it was $39 shipped. I read a lot about...

Aesthetically, I don't think the rubber lip would benefit from a glassy smooth surface, even if the the physical properties of the material didn't prevent you from actually achieving that level of smoothness.

I just finished straightening the front lip of my car--shallow learning curve after lowering the suspension. That plate is made of the softest metal I've encountered on the car. I straightened it with my hands and a pair of pliers. Although the lip is now straight, there is about a 1/4 inch...

. Gave her a quick wash, took the top off and drove over to the Cars & Coffee meet in San Antonio. Pretty good bunch of cars but there were only four MkIVs scattered around and one other MkIII. Every time I looked back at mine, people were standing around smiling and taking pictures. :icon_bigg

Advertised price is $250. They tack on $25 for shipping and since we are both in Texas, they had to charge tax, too. I think Redline would have been a little cheaper, but since the Supra is my daily driver, I didn't want to send the wheel to Poland. These guys got it back to me in two...

That would involve throwing them out.:nono:

Just got my steering wheel back from Craft Customs in Dallas. They did a great job with the new leather. Along with the leather center console, shift boot and e-brake boot from Redline and a new OEM shift knob, the interior is looking a lot younger than 26 years old. Now I just need to figure...

I agree Silver! It would have saved me about five weeks and the cost of shipping the first batch back to Redline!