Can you test the Driver's Window Motor without opening the inner metal door panel?

[Old Radar]

Hi everyone. I'm looking to test the driver’s power window motor by hooking it directly to the battery. I would rather not commit myself to a complete door tear-down if the motor is good.

Here is the issue: Rolled down the driver's window. It went down as smooth as always. When I pushed up--nothing happened. Never had any issues with the window before--no hesitation, no shuddering and no slow operation.

What I've done/found so far:

1. Tested passenger side--it works fine from both switches.
2. Disassembled the master switch and sanded/cleaned the contacts. Reassembly was a PITA.
3. Reattached switch--same problem--passenger side works, driver's side doesn't.
4. With ignition ON, activating driver's side switch dims the ignition lights when pressed up and when pressed down. Indicates to me the switch is working. Am I mistaken?
5. Searched this and other forums for help. Found mostly passenger-side problems but found a suggestion to test the motor by hooking it directly to the battery. Several members were able to raise their windows this way and eliminate the motor as a cause.
6. Consulted TSRM to get to the window motor but balked at a complete tear-down on my daily driver.
7. I've stopped basically at step 8 on the TSRM Door Disassembly. Upon closer study of the TSRM procedure, I’m not sure the inner metal panel even comes out. The procedure stops with step #20 removing the regulator—which is normally attached to the motor. With the speaker out, I can see the motor and it seems the connector in the wiring bundle is tantalizingly exposed under the plastic sheet. I believe this is the connector they want you to disconnect in step #20a. Can I disconnect it now and use this to connect to the battery? If so how?
I’d appreciate any advice since, as I said, this is my daily driver and it’s hot as hell in San Antonio—I want my window up!

Thanks!

 

[hvyman]

If you took apart the master switch than you pulled the door panel off. Which is all that's needed to get to the connector for the window motor.

Don't have to pull the motor out to test it.

 

[Old Radar]

That's what I was hoping to hear. Is there a reference to ensure I'm looking at the correct connector and how to do the test with it?

 

[Enraged]

this help? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BE&P=49

 

[Old Radar]

this help? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BE&P=49

Not particularly. I looked at that diagram before but I'm not fluent in wiring trouble shooting. My best guess is that you stick the ends of an ohm meter in the connector holes but I've got no clue what the diagram is telling you to look for. Is it saying that if you short-circuit pins 1 & 2 the driver's window goes up, 1 & 6 and 2 & 5 it goes down? I can follow directions but I'm not sticking things in holes I'm not familiar with--that road leads to disaster no matter how you take the innuendo.:naughty:

 

[hvyman]

It's a 2 wire connector that comes from the motor. You unplug it and on motor side add power and ground to the wires. If nothing happens reverse the wires. If nothing happens your motor is bad.

 

[Old Radar]

Okay, now I'm really confused. I did the test just like you said hvyman--I started with the positive terminal hooked to the red wire. Window went "clunk" and then nothing. I reversed the poles and got another clunk. Not to be deterred by initial failure, I went back to the original configuration and the window moved to the full closed position. Yaaay--it's not the motor--thanks hvyman! Must be the switch even though I cleaned the piss out of it and it dimmed the ignition lights when activated.

So I thought, now what? The obvious answer was to plug the switch back in and try it again. Window went down. Window went up. Window went down. Window went up.

Great. It seems fixed. I just don't understand why it works today when it didn't work yesterday. Time heals all things? Gremlins took the day off? Why ask why?

Enraged--Can you shed any light on this without showing me another schematic?

I think I'll drive it around for a couple of days before reinstalling the trim panel. Thanks for your help, guys.

 

[hvyman]

Window motors can sometimes be reset and some(not ours) have a reset buttons. But doesn't mean it will last for ever like that.

 

[AFQC]

I just went through this with my 87. Pax side window would go down with either side switch but wouldn't go up. Electrically speaking the pax window switch is a slave to the drivers side. If you remove the drivers side switch and disassemble (do it carefully, lots of small parts to drop!) below the switch rocker you will find a pair of gullwing contacts. In my case there was corrosion/carbon buildup at the contact points so I cleaned them all up with electrical cleaning spray and a 3M pad and after that it was good to go.

 

[plaaya69]

I just went through this with my 87. Pax side window would go down with either side switch but wouldn't go up. Electrically speaking the pax window switch is a slave to the drivers side. If you remove the drivers side switch and disassemble (do it carefully, lots of small parts to drop!) below the switch rocker you will find a pair of gullwing contacts. In my case there was corrosion/carbon buildup at the contact points so I cleaned them all up with electrical cleaning spray and a 3M pad and after that it was good to go.

I did this earlier this year as well. Window goes up and down a lot faster that before once both switch contacts were cleaned. I also used some Super Lube synthetic grease as well to help prevent the contacts getting chard. I did all the blend door and temp actuators for the fan as well as those contacts were dirty too.

Besides the ignition and door locks, I wonder what else could use a good electrical cleaning?