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I got a used Rolland V-Drum kit a year back or so, it's great to be able to play with headphones on to songs on my iPod. I have it wired into my home theater system to play when someone wants to hear it.

I have been practicing the drums about an hour a day right now. I have an electric drum set.

If you had seen the quality of the Tanabe, you would not question why it costs what it does. If you had someone make a full stainless tig welded exhaust that is as clean and fits as good as the Tanabe, you would spend probably spend more. Their quality control is amazing, noticeably better then...

Yeah, I got hit with the output from a MSD 6A with a "blaster" coil before, and you thought the stock coilpack was bad?!?!?!? :aigo:

If you don't touch a metal part on the car with your other hand or your body, you will not get shocked.

That's whats great about Supramania, people coming up with cool new ideas and helping each other out. One thing I was thinking, is that you could use two Stinger outputs to control the valve, one that is RPM triggered, and one that is coolant temp triggered. That way it will always fast idle...

You said you were going to order the Wolo one like 2 months ago :1zhelp: :biglaugh:

Cool deal! I actually already sent Jay a similar 12v solenoid valve about a month ago, but he never posted how the install went! I had shipped the same one to Mark a month before that and it got rejected and sent back! :( LOL But that one you found is less expensive and looks better too, good...

The reservior needs to be about the same height in the car as the pump or higher, otherwise it will drain back into the reservoir and cavitate every time you start the car. Have you ever seen a Toyota where the pump was higher then the reservior? Also, the return needs to be submersed in fluid...

He's really going to get a riced out Civic with the money. :biglaugh:

If she can get $3500 for that then she is doing him a huge favor! :biglaugh:

Don't eat the yellow snow.

It's pretty pimp in a middle eastern kinda way. LOL I think you got the better deal in that trade, Broseph!

So do we get to hold you down and have everyone on the forum punch for in the arm 16 times? :biglaugh:

The spool difference with ball bearing and non ball bearing turbos is a lot less them most people think. It's not like ball bearings suddenly makes your ct26 into a gt35r. It doesn't build boost earlier, the boost just climbs a little bit faster. You are talking maybe 200rpm difference and that...

I have been told it's partly do to the diameter of the shaft, it's too small to handle the stresses of the 60-1 compressor wheel in that small of a housing. I would think the 67-1 would be far worse.

I think the whole point of modding a ct26 is for inexpensive reliable power. Instead of dropping big money into one, you might as well go with an aftermarket turbo that will be more capable. Just my .02

Way too much money for this area, I wouldn't offer more then $2500 for it. Plan on bhg in the first month of ownership.

At some point you are going to have to make a good run without making excuses! :biglaugh::icon_razz

I forgot Arias, I have those in my 7m, they seemed to be very nice, but they did cost over $1k with the custom order.