Oh, it's not a pointless endevor, it's just not braced in the spot where it fails. I think the braces were more to stiffen the handling up than anything else...
The area is cracks isn't helped by the added supports of the 89+ subframe.
You could probably make the pieces easy enough as they're just tubes with the ends flattened to bolt on...
#1 reason the hub fails is improper installation. Very few of these cars will be on their original clutches, so it's safe to assume it's installed incorrectly.
Correct installation: (my terrible MS Paint drawing, but it's more clear than the TSRM unless you have a paper version)
Look at the original 911's for example. The term "slow in fast out" was made for them because the turbos weren't progressive in their power delivery...
Yep, lots of ways to do it.
- Quick-spool valve
- Antilag
- Honda's flapper style
- Porsche's moving veins
- diesels that slide a plate back and forth
Even without that, a modern designed turbo (turbine wheel, compressor wheel, housings, ball bearings, sized correctly) will spool like nobody's...
The rear lights are simple butyl rubber seals, so they're hot melt adhesive that you just bake in an oven. The thing is, there are several pins or screws on the edges as well that hold them together (the screws have no heads on them).
Definitely not quite as easy as good headlights to pull...
Some of their early lines had failures.
It's more the fact that routing isn't as clean and I don't like things moving around (not a good thing on a car).
Some of their early lines had failures.
It's more the fact that routing isn't as clean and I don't like things moving around (not a good thing on a car).
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