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hahaha....no. If the bolt is seized in there well enough, no penetrating lubricant will help. The buildup of voluminous corrosion product will prevent the parts from coming apart. I destroyed a front subframe trying to bang one of the bolts out. Luckily, I had a parts car with a good subframe.

what does your fuel pressure hit when it is idling like crap?

thread title misleading....1k race not found.

As the valvetrain is hydraulically self-adjusting, the tapping is likely not a valve adjustment problem. I'd be willing to bet that a valve guide/stem seal is pooched. Have you looked at your spark plugs lately? Look for oil fouling on individual plugs...this will help narrow down your issue.

2 months if i can work on the car on a regular basis...

Correct. Like most throttle lever arrangements, it is set up so there is a lot of pedal travel for the initial opening of the throttle and less for WOT, making the car a lot more driver-friendly. I'll see how this works out, I may have to hit the junk yard in search of "profiled" throttle...

Unfortunately the VQ35s are notorious oil burners, although I haven't really spent any time figuring out why. I've got an 02 SE myself (140k kms) which so far hasn't really used any oil (knocking on wood), however a family member of mine had an 02 I35 which burnt oil...so go figure. The only...

damn, if I knew my ass from a hole in the ground electrical-wise, I'd be pretty excited about that. Nice work.

well, when the wheel bearings go (which won't be long), get under there and check out what has bent. Signs of the axle carrier bending should be obvious - you will see flaking paint/rust where bending has occurred. Remove the suspension arms and check for straightness, and go from there.

Figured out the throttle body...it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Now, no more hitting the hood, although I still might have to make some adjustments to the leverage of the gas pedal. Before (it was the silver arm that hit the hood) After (black arm directly connected to...

good to hear...keep us updated

Get your hands on a fuse box from a parts car if you can...you can get an additional four fuses in the box with a little bit of work (on the left in the picture)

If you ever experienced the roads around here, I gaurantee you wouldn't ever complain again...

did you look at what the kit includes? It is a bit more than just gaskets...

there has to be SOMETHING better (and non-domestic) than a cavaleir to put a 2jz engine in...

sell it. if you want to get rid of the richness in between gears, re-route your BOV. At cruising, ECU adjustments will un-do any adjustments the AFC makes. If you plan on upgrading injectors/afm, sure, keep it around; it won't do you much good stock though.

Your fundamental understanding of materials is somewhat lacking. If you preload a steel bolt into the yield range, it will not deform further unless it is subjected to a load higher than that already achieved by the preload. Thus, even if not torqued to yield, it would deform as a result of a...

well...it looks like it tagged that borla muffler pretty well. Probably got a few different things on its way by.

it could have grabbed anything back of the flex section. The flex section just failed because it was the weakest point in the exhaust. Good thing you had the flex in there, things could have been a lot worse.

well, at least you can pull four of the bolts out from above when they snap, I'd hate to break off the bolts threaded into the frame...