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As everyone has said, make a new harness as a standalone is going to need different sensors. Not to mention 20+ year old wiring and the issues that comes from it.

Before you do anything, install a Murray's Firing Pin. After that, tacticool is dumb :p Personally I'm a fan of a gorgeous wood stock on them, but anyway. - They make a rear cover with a scope mount - They make high-cap removable mags for them (or you can have it modified it to accept AK...

IIRC, a lot of the 80's GM relays were simple icecube relays (like already pictured) Most of them aren't actually sealed, that's why you don't mount them upside down... There are sealed ones out there with a skirt on them with a matching connector that seals completely though.

If it's staked, you tend to not reuse them simply because if you have to stake it in the same spot.

*cough*repost*cough*

Well, easy test is simply unbolting the catback from the cat. If it moves back, there's your issue... Also, any large diameter cataback will be really close to the rear subframe, it has to be to maximise ground clearance.

The car was designed around that trim, so without it, it looks...odd.

If you're looking to do the mod yourself, don't. Later on he found just how terrible they were (and admitted as such)

Wish I had a picture, but I knew a guy that bought a red MKIV that looked just like that....and it was faded factory paint. Matte paint is really overplayed (especially when BMW and other companies start doing it from the factory). This is going to go the route of the wing thread. Does it...

Moved to the proper section. The Castrol made be available under a different name there, you'd have to bug someone (paging IJ) that would know.

Are the hangers directly down, or are they pulling? I seem to remember some JDM exhausts being an inch or 2 too short...

Keep in mind the bushings in the suspension arms can be shot as well. Subframe mounting isn't going to be your cause of wheelhop (where did that info come from?)

The electro/hydraulic systems are fine and when properly setup feel just like a normal system. The direct electric setups that they're using now are being ripped apart by reviewers and are said to ruin the feel of the car (porsche comes to mind, and Top Gear wasn't the onlt one to complain)

Gonna have to do some to properly plastidip anyway, do it yourself and your paintjob is even cheaper. Compare apples to apples here, if your paint is so far gone, the pastidip isn't going to stick. You'll have to prep it anyway. There really is no comparison here, the only comparison is...

IIRC, those MR2 pumps are notoriously unreliable and expensive...

lol, more like: Pros: -removable (maybe) -better looking than a spray can job (definately not if you know what you're doing) -options for matte/satin/gloss (i.e. old rhino-line, new rhino-line, and terrible worse-than-maaco paintjob) -minimal surface prep (not if you want it to stick...

If you haven't retorqued at all, that's probably your issue. If the head was annealed, the machine shop wouldn't have said it was straight still.

Yet it's not as safe as a wrap to the underlying paint.

Nope, he's using GTE electronics (read the first post) ;)

Might as well rhino-line your car...