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I've had several cars sit for a long time and never seen that happen. Must be a local additive (or owner-added octane "booster").

There is too much variation (microstructure, impurities, surface porosity, etc) in the cast structure to get an even color and finish. I'm sure some places will do the work for you, but i doubt you'll be happy with the results.

anodizing casings = no dice.

they've never done that...

wow, never heard of that place - it is pretty close to me. They make rather interesting manifolds.

GM vortec 4.2 out of a trailblazer/envoy?

what do your aluminum and copper look like? 9 ppm isn't a hell of a lot, and could be associated with test error.

1/8 BSPT (British standard pipe taper...NOT NPT)

You're either going to have to safety wire the bolt or figure out how to get more thread engagement. Can you remove the cold side of the turbo and get at the bolt with a wrench? (I'm sure you've already thought of this, but I figured I'd state the obvious anyway)

Your problem is that you do not have enough thread engaged to maintain the preload on the bolt. A major component of maintaining the torque is the friction between the male and female threadforms - without enough engaged threads, you will not achieve this torque. If you continue to try torque...

Does the car pull one direction when braking hard (i.e. from 80-0)? If so, you could have a restriction in the line. If not, you're probably fine.

check the spark plug valley for oil/water. If it is full, the plug wires will arc, not firing the plugs on these cylinders. Clean/dry them out and report back to us.

it is either 24 or 27. (sorry about the vague response....I just changed fluid a couple weeks ago, but can't remember exactly)

this.

As somebody who's spent far more than 10K restoring a car, I completely disagree with you. Every single dichromated part (yellow) in the engine bay is still bright. To do this in a resto, you would either need to disassemble everything and plate it (which is not easy with the CC actuator) or...

ola bitches! Not many pictures lately because I've been doing small time consuming shit that looks very unimpressive. Anyhow, I've managed to finish the driver-side (still need to figure out how to stuff the fields harness above the glove box, but that's for me to worry about). I finally got...

Why would it randomly go off? Accelerometers inside the front fenders and beneath the centre console control its operation, there is no link to the engine. Have a read through here if you want more info. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AB&P=1

Sorry to say, but if significant damage was caused to your car by "driving hard", there were underlying issues that were not attended to. Don't blame the appraiser - hoses on a properly functioning engine shouldn't blow when driven hard. did the car overheat?

The cooling rate will have little effect as the associated temperatures associated with straightening or annealing do not cause a phase change in the metal.

is it sad that absolutely none of this surprises me?