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I forget the size of the axle nut, but it could be 32mm. It's the highest torque of any fastener on this car, and I've never thought the handbrake sufficient to hold that large torque. It'd be best if you had a friend push the brake pedal hard while you torqued the nut if you want to do it while...

It's easier to remove the axle when it's straight, because the boots won't be pulling unevenly on the joints. It's still possible to get the axles out with the suspension drooped all the way, so it's not super-important. Don't worry about not making the match marks on the differential side...

In a rear-drive car, the rear suspension should be aligned to the centerline of the car so the net thrust from both tires pushing the car forward is aligned with the axis. If it's not aligned, the car will tend to steer to one side. It's most obvious when accelerating, but will show itself while...

Yea, centering the steering wheel should have been part of the alignment. If it pulls to one side under power, maybe they didn't get the thrust angle set to 0 like it should be. It seems unlikely that things are out of whack enough that the power steering is trying to pull the steering off...

Thanks! Interesting. Bosch also touts the programmability of the assist. Are you going to try and play with that? I suspect it's not easy.

@figgie Interesting idea, the Bosch iBooster. Have you gotten it hooked up yet to all the brake lines? Do you think it will play nicely with the 3-channel ABS?

I also have a Mishimoto radiator, but am running the stock 0.9bar/88kPa (12.8psi) Nippon Denso cap. The radiator came with the 19psi/1.3bar/131kPa cap, which I put on the shelf. I recommend staying with the stock pressure unless it proves to be insufficient. I'm sure I've run Stant caps in the...

Stock tire pressures are on a sticker inside the glovebox. It's 28psi, all 'round. However, I've been running 32psi for a very long time without issue. Very strange about 2 valve stems... What size wheels and tires do you have?

It just hit me that the decimal point is hard to see in my photo... No, it wasn't 69C in my garage in February. That's way over the highest temperature ever recorded on the surface of Earth. :aigo: :evil5: ::flame::

I "painted" it with a black Sharpie after I took the photo, but I will look for a better solution, like a wee piece of tint film. It was 6.9C in my garage when I took the picture. The sun on the door warms it up nicely.

Yesterday, I installed an outside temperature display that I've wanted for a while. I put the sensor under the right headlamp in front of the intake, zip-tied to an AC pipe. I hoped it would be more consistent because of the air flow, but I may try it in front of the radiator. The temperature...

As I recall, the clutch for a R154 is rather different from the W58, mainly due to the throwout arm and bearing working differently. When you go Turbo, you'll probably change the transmission, so don't worry about that now. I put in the ACT about 1.5 years ago and it's great, except when...

I recommend to just buy the Driftmotion rebuild kit, containing all bearings, shims, and seals. It's way easier than trying to get all the parts from Toyota. The big pinion bearing was very hard for me to get when I did mine 2 years ago. No, it's not really cheaper, but it's way easier...

We need more information about exactly why your car didn't pass. Was it because of CO, NOx, or HC? There's a different mechanism for each failure. If you're talking about downpipes, you probably want to post in the Turbo area, rather than the NA area. The NA has no downpipe.

Just finished refreshing my rear suspension. Some 22 years ago, I made my own polyurethane bearings, because at the time nobody made them. Since iron oxide takes more volume than iron, the bearing for the passenger-side toe arm clamped down on the tube and the arm broke. The eye rusted under the...

Just a thought: if you have fire in the intake, maybe the spark happens when an intake valve is open. That says a timing issue. Have you perused the TSRM? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ It is full of troubleshooting info, especially for the ignition system.

I'd still consider a basic gasket match if you have the time. While the front of your engine is apart, definitely change both front crank and oil pump seals. They're easy. Sometimes the crank pulley comes off easily, sometimes it takes a puller. Any 2- or 3-arm puller that's big enough...

What's your plan for the exhaust? If you're going with a free-flowing one, like 2.5" mandrel-bent tubing with a low-resistance muffler & resonator, doing your own gasket matching of the intake parts can be worth your time. It's not hard with a small sanding drum and drill.

When checking the pattern, it's important to get the side bearing cap bolts torqued a bit. The diff case must be solidly in its place before you measure anything. I will also suggest making sure the outer races and the carrier are perfectly clean so they sit together properly. The TSRM...

As I have had an opportunity to drive my car with the vacuum to the booster disconnected, I definitely can't recommend going without. Now, if you're willing to change the master cylinder bore and/or move the hinge point on the pedal, it would work better unboosted.