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Piratetip, i have not checked breakaway torque for pinion or carrier as I have not changed any of the bearings yet. My logic since the bearings only have 1000 miles on them their wear is minimal and I can avoid risk of damaging the new bearings by pressing off the pinion bearings so many times...

Now on this post only 0.076" shim, taken early yesterday morning

Here are pinion pics to the best of my ability. I added more prussian blue and ran another pattern with loaded pinion. All these pics are for 1.9mm or 0.075" shim only

Next , little more shim, Coast looks nice and not running off the toe with wide contact patch Drive, partial rugby ball shape above but straight bottom, bigger contact patch than 0.073", still within toe edge Last shim, stock shim Not ideal shape, but coast has large contact patch and still...

Ok I got all 5 data points compiled 1st, lets go Ultra shallow, Drive Side heel bias, half rugby ball shape Coast off the face and over the toe Next Ultra Deep, Coast slight heel bias Drive slight toe bias Next ideal 1 Coast seems ok but running off the toe Drive , seems ideal pattern...

So this is what happened to the pinion bearings, also has false brinelling marks on big bearing Super deep drive, towards the toe Super deep coast , slight to heel Next, to try , PD of 0.076"(1.94mm) and lastly 0.075"(1.9mm).

Hi Piratetip, i probably will increase carrier shim thickness by an additional 0.03mm just to tight up more. I find the work much easier to do once i removed the side seals. About the pinion preload, i concentrated on the rolling torque not breakaway, thats what everyone said, the rolling...

Update, checked backlash, it has opened up on average of 0.05mm. Previous backlash was averaging 0.15mm (0.006"). now its 0.2mm (0.0078") I then checked ring gear runout, maximum is 0.07mm, max allowed is 0.1mm, so its ok.

Well, after the noise starting to increase in my diff again, I finally decided to take it apart again. After what Dave1jz said and from Zuk's website, I have a feeling my pinion preload was set too high. On my previous rebuild (new bearings), I was getting over 40inlb breakaway torque, and 14...

Have you tried making a request ? The request form is on the page. One form allows up to 4 parts.

I think the biggest letdown is the price. A thousand bucks for a fuel level sender is crazy, I dont think even BMW charges such prices for their similar parts.

Worse still I suspect the U joints are not centered properly since mine is the staked on type. Anyway to keep everyone updated, I got another guy to recenter and rebalance the old 2 piece, he claims its now centered and rebalanced, but he only is able to check up to 1500rpm. I tested the car and...

Looks like the 1 pc did not solve my problem, it only shifted it to a higher rpm. it now vibrates at 80mph and over which i suspect is 1/2 the actual critical speed. I took a road trip yesterday and the drive was enjoyable except at 80mph and over. Suffice to say i kept it 70 mph most of the...

No, the ones pressed into rear knuckles are still available from toyota, the serrated ones are for the rear arms on inner side. The ones for the rear knuckles are listed below. I bought about a year ago from Japan.

Its cool, looks like they listened to me, I requested for the bushings on front and rear arms. Maybe a whole bunch of guys asked for it too. So how was your experience ordering these? Did your local dealer jack up the price ?

is it ok to use a M type front half with V type rear half ?

Guys, I was going through the SUpra Heritage Parts program, and there is a propeller shaft, they listed two types of joints. Mine came with the V joint (Staked). Any idea why there are 2 different designs? I would think the M type is easier to service.

I took it from 60mph to 75mph for a few seconds today. No vibrations.

Amen to that, i saw on some websites listing a 44" U joint center to center, the critical speed was anywhere from 5700rpm ,7800rpm, or 9200rpm. With you saying its 11295rpm is very reassuring. That means even up to de limited top speed of 215kmh it should be ok. . From my calculation ,11295...

between welds is 41.5", yes ratio is 4.56, tire diameter 25.5" tube OD 3", thickness should be 0.083". Do I need to grease the slip yoke splines ? Update, installed the prop shaft Overall, since the wall is thin, there is a bit of resonance when the car is starting up on high idle. I tested...