Wifey's New Grocery Getter

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
Well after quite awhile there's actually an update.

We got the 7mge and the auto trannny into the car. Took me awhile to get some extra little parts for the swap and having time/desire/energy to get out there and mate the tranny up to the engine. Pics tomorrow.
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
Well, bad news time. No pics today due to trying to get everything done up, and some guy stopping off and spending about an hour trying to push his religion on me.

Other bad news is, I'm a retard. That capped off heater hose thing that I asked about very early into this thread is not on Cressida engines. Instead on Cressida engines, the passenger side port (which is capped on USDM supras) is open and THAT is the port that goes to the heater core return. Sadly the OTHER side is WELDED shut. I found the tubes from the Supra engine, however I highly doubt I'm getting it around the head with the engine in the car. So I get to spend tomorrow UNDOING everything I did for the last 2 days and remove the engine again (unless anyone has any ideas).

Also will have some pics when the engine goes back in as I try to route everything around.
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
6,152
32
48
40
MA, 01440
Can't just put a cap on the port that should be welded?
Seems a better solution than pulling the engine again.

Did you ever find out what the unknown object was on the driver's side frame rail?
If you haven't, it's the engine stabilizer.
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
unknown object on driver's side frame rail was the high pressure fuel line, the soft line at the crimp got ripped off. I just cut the crimp off and am going to double clamp some 140psi fuel hose onto it and hope it holds.

I found the hardline from the supra and am just going to pull the engine to replace the coolant lines with the proper one.
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
at least this time we have the proper tranny mount on it. Someone had told me to keep the tranny mount from the auto when I put it in, but the x8's tranny mount is about 3" too wide, and wouldn't mount up. All I have to do is unhook the P/S lines (and my ghetto fabbed p/s res), unhook the ignitor/coil, alternator, shifter, and a couple minor things.

Luckily I have a load leveler for the engine puller this time, which makes life ALOT easier. Last time I pulled the engine from the supra, I missed the engine dampner thing that you were talking about and snapped my lift's chain. Also we found that it's easier to roll the CAR instead of the hoist (difference between 4 big tires and 6 little ones).
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
Yay, I got my new dash harnesses in today. Within 2 hours I had the main dash harness in, HVAC back together, dash bar installed and part of the small dash harness is throw together in there too. Hopefully I can get the camera out there and get some pics for everyone.

Anyone know if there's a control box for the power windows in these cars? As stated above I got the main harness hooked back back up, but the windows no work.

Also will there be any massive side effect of not hooking up the ABS plugs in the engine bay? The main harness I got is from a non-ABS car.
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
rawr! progress! Engine came out, hardlines got swapped, tranny plugs hooked up, vent pipe (side of valve cover, near oil fill) installed, ISC and TB coolant lines ran. AND engine is BACK in, and here's proof! On a side note, went and picked up another toy for the other project, I'll get pics tomorrow.

Also never mind about the power window thing, I was a tard and forgot that without the key being turned they wouldn't work, and key doesn't do much of anything if the ignition isn't hooked up.

(yes, they're crappy pics, my camera is about dead)

p1433623_1.jpg

p1433623_2.jpg
 

bishop40k

New Member
Feb 9, 2008
148
0
0
Lafayete, IN
Well been a LONG time since my last update.

I had almost everything assembled, had to install a push button starter switch, since I guess like alot of these MKIII's it had faults in the ignition system. I did it smartly by installing a 15A fuse inline, so not to fry things. Had it towed up to the exhaust shop to have a custom built exhaust built for it (the town I live in can/will pull you over if your exhaust {or lack thereof} is too loud).

After a couple days of it sitting in the driveway and trying to finish up small little electrical gremlins, I realize there's a giant pool of oil under the car. The oil pan I had sourced for the swap didn't include the drain plug's gasket, so had to buy another. Put it on, and it still leaked, so slopped a bunch of RTV/FPIG between gasket and pan, and leak stopped. However noticed that the dipstick would never get a reading on the oil level, since I completely forgot that when swapping from front sump to mid sump pans, the dipstick has to be altered/relocated. Plus the engine was leaking oil in between tranny and engine (probably from being overfilled).

So yet again, I had to pull the motor to relocate the dipstick, get the oil pan hot-tanked and checked for cracks/holes (should have done this before-hand), but between the wife and I (and 2 not very knowledgeable friends), we got the engine undone and out and onto stand in under 4 hours. So today's agenda is get the 13/32 drill bit needed, drill a small hole, then larger and larger then 13/32 hole for dipstick, take oil pan to machine shop for tanking/inspection.

Then depending on how long the machine shop takes, I'll wire up the push button a little better and more discreetly, so there's not an obvious red wire running from the battery into the car.