which oil to use??

[trydrew]

JJ, you ever heard of Slick 66? It's another one of those products claiming that your car COULD run w/o oil.

Slick 50 is a similar product I should assume.

From JJ's link on pg3:

People are always asking about adding things as Slick 50 into the oil tank. Do not do this. The oil companies and engine manufacturers work together very hard to give you the product you need. Engines are running hotter, longer with more BHP from less CID. Smaller, more efficient engines are getting us more MPG and yet better acceleration. These engines last longer and are more reliable.

Part of that reason is the nature of the lubricants. There is a lot of competition to get us the best working motor oil. Independent additives cannot make the oil better and in many cases makes things worse. There have been engine failures as a result of adding some of these aftermarket additives to motor oil.

Fact is good oils dont need additives.

 

[Turbo. Targa. Life.]

I was agreeing with JJ that it's money-pit bullshit.

 

[Clinton]

Sooo, this is probably played out, but what would you say about switching to a group III/IV/V oil from a group II (I think -- had Valvoline change my oil last time, they used their basic 5w30) on an engine with 210,000 miles? I've only owned the car for the last 2000 miles or so, and it tends to leak through (I'm guessing) valve seals and turbo.

Essentially, my question: What would you recommend for high mileage motors?

CCC

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

trust me, i'm keepin it in check.. anytime my car dips too low, i will immediately park it, and check it, and yes, plans to move it are in progress, lol, trust me, i've been through too much shit to let something like that mess up, i seriously check all of my fluids more than twice a day, as well as the filter

You still don't get it....You can crack that filter and be out of oil in seconds just like I did, and while sittting at a light the motor stops because its out of oil. Then it's too late to do anything but rebuild. You have a disaster waiting to happen, and like me you know about it, and is warned yet you wait to change. It's like driving down a road where you know the bridge is out and you keep driving until you fall off the road. It takes at most an hour to refab something to raise that filter, and it takes weeks to do a rebuild, so pick you poison.


Better carry an extra filter or you ar Fu@#!

 

[IJ.]

At a bare minimum grab a Moroso Race filter they're extra thick cases so won't rip as easily.....

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

nah, it'd take me like a year or more to re-build, but i'm not even driving my car, but my damn wrenches are like 30 min away... as for me, i have no gas or $ right now :-/, but i'll get on it asap for sure

 

[mkIIIman089]

Since some of these demonstrations were conducted using Briggs and Stratton engines, the Briggs and Stratton Company itself decided to run a similar, but somewhat more scientific, experiment. Taking two brand-new, identical engines straight off their assembly line, they set them up for bench-testing. The only difference was that one had the special additive included with its oil and the other did not. Both were operated for 20 hours before being shut down and having the oil drained from them. Then both were started up again and allowed to run for another 20 straight hours. Neither engine seemed to have any problem performing this "minor miracle."

Heh, I love the kind of torture you can put those little engines through. My [insert worst, most insulting string of profanities you can think of here] step dad runs my lawn mower with a hardly threaded in spark plug; and doesn't even know it.

JJ, I'm kind of suprised you're actually taking your time to talk about all this.

 

[Nick M]

but ARCO used to market a graphite filled oil that suffered from the same problem. Not to mention it was black right out of the bottle and consumers had trouble getting past that.

I have seen one bad dealer use it, and still does. Or at least a very similar product.

 

[DyslexicSquirrel]

Would any of you recommend the magical Lucas?

 

[Clinton]

Cinton: You might want to run a 40w if the engine really worn. If you want a cheap Group III I recommend Shell Rotella 5-40 or Mobil Delvac 1. Group IIs are cheap and will do the job though. Use one of the "High Mileage" oils now on the market. What makes them so named is they contain a stiffer dose of antiwear agents and seal conditioners. Vavoline MaxLife (not Maxlife Syn) is good one. Don't be putting an expensive Group IV or V oil into a leaker/burner. Waste of money. Group III is better but with an engine of that age I'd just stick to a good Group II. Chevron Supreme or the Wally World SuperTech are examples.

Again, oils are so much better today than even 10 years ago you can't wrong if you use any well known rated SL or SM.

I wondered if those high mileage oils were just snake oil (pardon the pun) but I guess not. You mentioned seal conditioner, what do you think about Berryman's B12 additive, or other conditioner that causes seals to swell, stoppering some leaks (or so the bottle says)? Are there any other products you'd recommend to add to the crankcase of high mileage engines?

thanks!

CCC

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

You still don't get it....You can crack that filter and be out of oil in seconds just like I did, and while sittting at a light the motor stops because its out of oil. Then it's too late to do anything but rebuild. You have a disaster waiting to happen, and like me you know about it, and is warned yet you wait to change. It's like driving down a road where you know the bridge is out and you keep driving until you fall off the road. It takes at most an hour to refab something to raise that filter, and it takes weeks to do a rebuild, so pick you poison.


Better carry an extra filter or you ar Fu@#!

just for the record, i moved the filter today, lol, i'll post pics when i can, you should see the dents and scraped on the filter 0_0, lol, but seriously, i kept an eye on it, every time there was a new dent, i had pulled over immediately to check (you can't tell/hear if it scrapes, i'd just notice that the front end went really low exiting a driveway or something)

 

[DyslexicSquirrel]

That is kind of what I figured JJ, that damn example setup at PepBoys almost tricked me... :icon_conf But it's okay, I still love Lucas

So what ARE your opinions on fuel additives? :naughty:

And what kind of oil should I suggest to my friend with a 93 Miata with a slight knock developing with 100K plus... :nono:

 

[Clinton]

CCC: B12 is 90% toluene. Makes a decent injector and intake cleaner but I'm against pouring any kind of solvent into a crackcase unless doing a motor flush and even them I don't like 'em.

Use a high mileage oil with seal conditioners. For extra cleaning, dose the oil with a 1/2 quart of Redline or another Group V oil. I generally avoid mixing different oil chemistries but using some oils as additives works well if you understand what you're doing.

If the engine has never been opened I'd also run one cycle of Auto-RX:

http://tinyurl.com/gx5vy

Takes a long time but work it does. It'll desludge the engine and clean the ring packs. It also solves seal problems. Follow the directions for using it exactly.

PS: I spent some time in Powell River many years ago. Beautiful place, classic BC.

Good to know about berryman's, I'l avoid ever putting it in my car. I'll look into Auto-RX, if I can find it here in town (if you've been to Powell River, you know how hard it is to find anything special without getting on a boat -- beautiful place, just isolated *grin*) I wonder how much oil my car'll leak after running all these detergents through it *grin*

Are there any additional seal conditioner additives I can run through it? or will the conditioners in a high mileage oil be enough to do what needs to be done? After addding Auto-RX, should I change my oil at a shorter interval than normal, since it's de-guckifying my engine? What would you say about using NAPA oil filters? should I see about getting a relocation kit, and running a bigger filter?

Merely want to give my high mileage engine the best care I can, before it comes time for a rebuild

Thanks!

CCC

 

[Clinton]

Answers: Auto RX can only be bought from that site. The conditioners in a high mileage oil should be enough. Same with Auto RX but neither will fix bad seals. If you use RX follow the directions. Use for 1500 miles and them do a rinse cycle for 2000 miles. Napa filters, at least Napa Gold, are made by WIX. They're one of the best filters you can buy.

Relocation it is your call. I don't like 'em. I prefer to use depth filtration and not change the oil for a long time. Since the bypass is located in the engine bay it's easy to change and makes the full flow filter even more useless than it normally is. I haven't change the full flow filter on my engine in 25,000 miles because there is not need to. In short, I prefer driving my car to working on it.

How exactly do you employ depth filtration on cars? I know the term from living off the main water grid, and using well water -- we use depth filters on the big main line from the pump to the pressure tank to get all the crunk out of our water.

I hope I'm not bothering you with all of these questions -- I'm just very interested in learning about this. Thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions!

CCC

 

[thesandymancan]

sorry, i didn't read the whole thread; but i did just dump 10 quarts of brand new royal purpal onto my friends driveway! ::shootme:: ::shootme::

 

[mkIIIman089]

^ You know, this thread was really good until you came in here. I know, you're probably barely literate like most people on here, but either suffer through it or don't post!

 

[thesandymancan]

i'm too enraged to care what you think of me right now but i am NOT illiterate.

sorry if i "ruined" your thread.

 

[suprahero]

^ You know, this thread was really good until you came in here. I know, you're probably barely literate like most people on here, but either suffer through it or don't post!

:3d_frown:

I doubt that most people on here are barely literate. We have a lot of highly educated people on here and a lot of people wanting to learn. You should have more patience and try to help the site and not insult people at the drop of a hat. I doubt that you have the authority to tell someone not to post. Get off of your high horse. That was just totally uncalled for.

Sandyman, don't let him discourage you. You have the right to ask all the questions you want. Just search first and then ask if you can't find your answer............lol

 

[TurboStreetCar]

hey jetjock, what do u think of the 15-40 diesel oils, ive herd there higher detergent because of all the soot in diesel engines. would it be better becasue of the more detergents keeping every thing cleaner? especially in a turbo engine? i kno the big rigs run on it for over 10k miles or something. just wondering if itll offer any added protection that a regular non synthetic oil wont provide. its the same price but if itll keep things cleaner and maybe be a little more durable maybe itll be worth it?

 

[Clinton]

All parasitic depth filtration does is take a tiny amount of oil and filter it very well, much better than any spin-on filter can. You either use a sandwich adapter on the filter mount or tee into a pressure source like the sending unit and return from the filter to the pan or some other zero presure place like the valve cover. The sandwich adapter is easiest. Google 'bypass filter" for a better idea.

Frankly, other than getting you very long OCI's it's a waste for your engine because of it's high mileage. A bypass really should be put on when the engine is new. Same with an auto transmission. In fact depth filtation on a tranny is as cruical to it's life as is good cooling.

I even have a depth filter on my coolant system. Course, they're some things you should learn about coolants too. There's almost as much confusion over them as oils but we'll leave that for another time

Darn! where the hell do you live? I want to buy you a beer (or several) and extract knowlege from you

Even if doing a bypass filter system for my car is useless for the time being, it's good knowlege to have for future, and for when the time comes to rebuild my engine, or when I start on my next project (Supras aren't my only passion )

CCC