which oil to use??

Insidious Surmiser

Formerly 89jdm7m
May 12, 2006
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hottscennessey said:
I love royal purple.. but it wont look like honey for long in a turbo car.
i would use it... but i'm poor :-/... i use wal-mart 10w30, becuase it costs 6.50 for 5 quarts so i can afford to change it out every 1000 miles :D
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Surprisingly, that Wally World SuperTech stuff ain't bad oil. It'll go a lot longer than 1K. The same can be said of their $2 ST filters. Made by Champ, they're a very good filter for the money. I use them on my bike.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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jetjock said:
The oil thing has be done to death. My take on rod knock is this: I'd never heard of it until I came to this forum. No Supra I know prior to coming here ever suffered from it and that includes mine. I even ran it out of oil on the highway until it seized. After it cooled down I ran it for another 40K miles with no rod knock. (The oil at the time was Mobil One). I believe the 7M does not have an inherent problem with rod knock in it's stock or lightly modded form. I believe it's overwhemingly due to improper rebuilding or coolant in the oil, a problem often caused by the same issue. I do recommend running one quart over for cooling and just "to be sure". Fwiw I seldom check my oil, only about once a month. I've had this car 19 years and never had a oil problem.

Then again I also don't believe the car has inherent cooling system problems in stock or lightly modded trim. My car has never had the slightest of cooling problems in any weather or terrian. It's all about good maintenance. Of course, if the engine is highly modded oil and cooling take on new dimensions.

Anyways, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Your story is the correct one. It just gets old after a while. I have nothing else to add to that.

mr mohawk said:
Most wear occurs at start up right? So why the hell would you want a thick oil on start up? As with any "problem",
The problem is the owner.
 

atlpd3147

kool member
Nov 26, 2005
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Anyone have any opinions on the lucas oil additives? Are they good to use every once in a while or is it just to thick to mix in with regular/syn oil?
 

Insidious Surmiser

Formerly 89jdm7m
May 12, 2006
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jetjock said:
Surprisingly, that Wally World SuperTech stuff ain't bad oil. It'll go a lot longer than 1K. The same can be said of their $2 ST filters. Made by Champ, they're a very good filter for the money. I use them on my bike.
i figured that at least but now i can afford to change it every 1k miles, so why not?, it takes like 30 min of my day (once every 1k miles), and i carry a 5 qt bottle w/ me, just in case... in case i dunno what happens, but w/ my luck something will happen :nono: (my oil filter is located under the front fascia and has scraped the pavement about 5 times now... i keep turning it so that an unscraped surface is exposed, but i seriously need to move it :-/)
 

QWIKSTRIKE

475rwhp459torq an climbin
Apr 3, 2005
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89jdm7m said:
i figured that at least but now i can afford to change it every 1k miles, so why not?, it takes like 30 min of my day (once every 1k miles), and i carry a 5 qt bottle w/ me, just in case... in case i dunno what happens, but w/ my luck something will happen :nono: (it :-/)
my oil filter is located under the front fascia and has scraped the pavement about 5 times now... i keep turning it so that an unscraped surface is exposed, but i seriously need to move

My winter project was to repair a rod knock because of the same problem of the oil filter scraped a raised side walk. You better take the time to move them to a higher place. I removed the tow hook got a heavy L bracket from sears and drilled the hole in the bracket wider, and mounted it to the filter adapter, and then I bolted the L shaped bracket with the filter adapter to where the top tow hook bolt was in near the snorkel port!
 

QWIKSTRIKE

475rwhp459torq an climbin
Apr 3, 2005
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atlpd3147 said:
Anyone have any opinions on the lucas oil additives? Are they good to use every once in a while or is it just to thick to mix in with regular/syn oil?


there is a study on Supraforums about how terrible lucas oil would be to use. In the winter it will kill the motor it's so thick.:nono:
 

Insidious Surmiser

Formerly 89jdm7m
May 12, 2006
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QWIKSTRIKE said:
my oil filter is located under the front fascia and has scraped the pavement about 5 times now... i keep turning it so that an unscraped surface is exposed, but i seriously need to move

My winter project was to repair a rod knock because of the same problem of the oil filter scraped a raised side walk. You better take the time to move them to a higher place. I removed the tow hook got a heavy L bracket from sears and drilled the hole in the bracket wider, and mounted it to the filter adapter, and then I bolted the L shaped bracket with the filter adapter to where the top tow hook bolt was in near the snorkel port!
trust me, i'm keepin it in check.. anytime my car dips too low, i will immediately park it, and check it, and yes, plans to move it are in progress, lol, trust me, i've been through too much shit to let something like that mess up, i seriously check all of my fluids more than twice a day, as well as the filter
 

kmckiness

New Member
Aug 13, 2005
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Saint Charles, IL
Great info!!!

Which do you prefer JJ: Redline 5w30 or Royal Purple 5w30 ?

Would 5w30 be a good choice to run year round in Illinois (Chicago winters)? I don't plan on driving my car in the winter and just starting it at set intervals during that time period.

EDIT: I also plan on racing my car about once a month or so and I am shooting for around 400ish rwhp when I get it running again.
 

kmckiness

New Member
Aug 13, 2005
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jetjock said:
I prefer neither but if you're asking me to make a choice I'd have to go with the Group V Redline, only because I know it's ester based and has a very good chemistry. I don't know what's in RP but I've heard it's PAO which would make it a Group IV. I could be wrong though.

5-30 is good year round in Ill-Annoys but I'd use a 0W if I could find it, such as the German Castrol I mentioned. Definately use a syn during those winters though.

So above all of the types of oil you would recommend the 0w30 German Castrol Synthetic?

Would a 0w30 synthetic (German Castrol) work ok year round where I am at?

You have changed my views on oil and I am enjoying those links you gave us.
Thanks again.

edit: (just saw your edit to my winter comment) The reason why I don't like driving it in the winter is because of SALT. My car does not have any rust on the body since it came from Texas in 1999. I have owned it since the summer of 2001 and have driven it on snow around 2-3 times (forced to). I always keep it in the garage when I am not driving it.
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
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Downey, California, United States
jetjock said:
Lol, according to the website it "coats all metal surfaces with a layer of positively charged ionic oil molecules." Uh huh....

Any other thoughts? The videos looked really convincing, and the guy that was testing it, is on this forum I believe...he says he uses it in his Supra...
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
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jetjock said:
It's all ooga-booga Johnathan. If the guy is here and uses it ask him to explain in detail how that positively charged ionic thing works. Lol better still, ask him to show us a video of him driving *his* Supra around with no oil in it. And don't you think if it worked the oil companies and automakers would be all over it?

I believe you, but how would one go about staging those demo videos?
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
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Downey, California, United States
jetjock said:
I dunno because I didn't bother watching them. I know oil of snake when I see it just from the marketing claims. You asked and I gave. If you want to run out and buy that kind of stuff go for it. You won't be the first to have his wallet lightened by these guys.

Thanks JJ! German Castrol here I come!