what is the best way to be 100% sure my motor does not get rod knock?

[chefma70]

im starting my rebuild in the next few days. And rod knock is my main concern!I have read that it takes hundreths of a drop of coolant or water in oil to get rodknock.I dont want to be another statistic.i have read that hundreds of rebuilds get rodknock.http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

how can i prevent it?

i think the obvious is to flush my oil 3-5 times withing the first 1500 miles.other than that what else can i do?

how can i make sure my block is water and coolant free before i start the rebuild?

i would appreciate any advice.

thanks chef

jdub i thought you said 0w30 is one of the least expensive oils you can buy.when i went to the autozone t was 7.00 a quart for the castrol green:aigo: double of what i pay for valvoline!im still going to use it because you said so and your the expert.

 

[suprahero]

The only 100% way to make sure you don't get rod knock is to park it and never crank it.........other than that all you can do is make sure you build it correctly with proper tolerances and use a good oil as suggested by jdub. I don't know anything about a hundredth of a drop of water though........that sounds like bs. Good luck.

 

[jdub]

Are you rebuilding the bottom end? (i.e. crank, rods, pistons and associated bearings)

LOL...Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) is one of the least expensive true (Grp IV or V) synthetic oils...especially compared to Red Line or Amsoil at $9-10 a quart. I've been able to catch GC on sale at just over $5 a quart. Of course you will be able to buy a conventional oil a lot cheaper

Not sure what you mean by Castrol Green...that was the earlier version of German Castrol, last made in early 2005. I'd be really, really surprised if there is any left anywhere.

 

[WhtMa71]

Pennzoil Platinum is good stuff too. Usually around $6/qt. Wix filters are good too.

 

[jdub]

Pennzoil Platinum is good stuff too. Usually around $6/qt. Wix filters are good too.

Yes it is. A highly refined Grp III oil with a superb additive pack...it's not a PAO or ester synthetic though. Beats Mobil 1, the other common Grp III oil, hands down IMO.

You won't go wrong with a Wix filter

 

[chefma70]

Are you rebuilding the bottom end? (i.e. crank, rods, pistons and associated bearings)

LOL...Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) is one of the least expensive true (Grp IV or V) synthetic oils...especially compared to Red Line or Amsoil at $9-10 a quart. I've been able to catch GC on sale at just over $5 a quart. Of course you will be able to buy a conventional oil a lot cheaper

Not sure what you mean by Castrol Green...that was the earlier version of German Castrol, last made in early 2005. I'd be really, really surprised if there is any left anywhere.

yes i am actually.im getting a full clevite 77 kit.new piston rings and a 2mm tms mhg with arps.

i guess im confusing the european formula with the green formula.i thought they were the same since the bottles i saw in the store were black and green.

 

[chefma70]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

just saying what i read from supracentral

 

[jdub]

yes i am actually.im getting a full clevite 77 kit.new piston rings and a 2mm tms mhg with arps.

i guess im confusing the european formula with the green formula.i thought they were the same since the bottles i saw in the store were black and green.

Rebuilding the block is going to require a complete break-in:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

The only true synthetic Castrol sells in the US is the European Formula 0W-30. It says "Made in Germany" on the back label. Tons of info on it in the Lube section.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

just saying what i read from supracentral

That applies to a BHG where only the HG is replaced. If you rebuild the block correctly with proper bearing clearances, you will not have those issues.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Avoid pre-ignition pinging.
Because if your piston is being pushed back down on upward movement it hammers the rod bearing into the crank.
One thing on this note that helps, make sure you dont have any vacume leaks the 7M is completely metered air leaks hurt the engine and may run it lean.

Avoid pushing an OEM engine to redline costantly.

Change the timming belt proper intervals since the oil pump is driven off the belt.
& check the pump when in there.

Dont drive an engine with BHG

Let the car warm up properly before lead footing it. If turbo on this same note install a turbo timer or spend time with the car to get temps back down to be sure no two hot surfaces come in contact when killing the engine after hard pulls.

Although not entirely practical.
Installing a FFIM may help a lot the OEM 7M design flows more air into the pipes that are streight down from the intake while the runners that come off at angles or bends get less of an air flow.
The plenum ffim design or ITB is much better for these simple reasons.

Other then routine maintenance thats the big hitters.

 

[91T breezen']

Okay, someone was going to eventually get around to saying it, so it might as well be me...SWAP OUT THE 7M FOR A 1/2JZ!!!:sarcasm::biglaugh:

 

[tbcmorris]

I read that you want a 2mm tms mhg....but you haven't started your build yet....you don't pick a hg until you know how much tou have machined off the block and head in order to keep a good comp ratio.....


And I suspose a 1j or 2j never gets rod knock

 

[ForcedTorque]

Okay, someone was going to eventually get around to saying it, so it might as well be me...SWAP OUT THE 7M FOR A 1/2JZ!!!:sarcasm::biglaugh:

Right, someone was going to say it. But, for it to come from a 1jz'd jealous friend of the 7M king, might not be the right way.:biglaugh: This info taken straight from your sig.

I read that you want a 2mm tms mhg....but you haven't started your build yet....you don't pick a hg until you know how much tou have machined off the block and head in order to keep a good comp ratio.....


And I suspose a 1j or 2j never gets rod knock

This was the info I was about to bring in, but while posting noticed there was a new reply.

So, I will add that you can add 1 extra quart of oil, and NEVER RedLine the motor. You have pushed the CT-26 past its efficiency before then anyway.

 

[rayall01]

How about this? Keep OIL in it!:aigo:

 

[chefma70]

thanks for reminding me the basics but is that all i need to know,to make sure i have a healthy running motor?:runaway:

im trippin this is my first motor build ever and its a 7m...ffwall:....from what i heard from the street and forums its one of the hardest motors to build correctly.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Just follow your directions strictly, and things should be OK. Just overtorque the head over the torque spec.

 

[berniek]

Most cases of rod knock result from oil starvation, asuming a BHG is not the fault. Looking at the oil pan and pickup, it is easy to see that the oil will run away from the pickup during hard acceleration. I moved my pickup back to the next main bearing cap by exteneding it with a brazed-in steel tube. The back of the pickup screen has additonal brazed supports connected to strap iron bracing under the next-back main bearing cap bolts, very rigid. This places the pickp at the kickup in the rear of the pan. It required almost complete removal of the baffle in the pan, but still think it is a good solution under heavy acceleration.

Also, run the oil a quart high. Hope this helps.

BernieK
'91T, non-targa, refreshed JDM, Walbro, Lex, 550cc ND injectors, 57 trim turbo at 17 PSI (at 3000 pipe), '98 wheels and engine mounts (strong!), Lipp, modified stock FPR, Treadstone IC, hardpipes, Cometic, ARP, Random Tech 3" single cat downpipe, HKS LET-T16 exhaust, Exedy organic clutch (street use), Cr-Mo light flywheel, Raptor BOV (recirculated), deflashed valve bowls, exhaust helicoils, tower strut.

im starting my rebuild in the next few days. And rod knock is my main concern!I have read that it takes hundreths of a drop of coolant or water in oil to get rodknock.I dont want to be another statistic.i have read that hundreds of rebuilds get rodknock.http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

how can i prevent it?

i think the obvious is to flush my oil 3-5 times withing the first 1500 miles.other than that what else can i do?

how can i make sure my block is water and coolant free before i start the rebuild?

i would appreciate any advice.

thanks chef

jdub i thought you said 0w30 is one of the least expensive oils you can buy.when i went to the autozone t was 7.00 a quart for the castrol green:aigo: double of what i pay for valvoline!im still going to use it because you said so and your the expert.

 

[JoeyJ]

thanks for reminding me the basics but is that all i need to know,to make sure i have a healthy running motor?:runaway:

im trippin this is my first motor build ever and its a 7m...ffwall:....from what i heard from the street and forums its one of the hardest motors to build correctly.

say what? why would a 7M be harder to build than any other engine?
Just do everything properly, make sure its clean and measure everything. Take your time, don't try to put it together in a hurry.

I think the 7M is a great engine, just build it right and it can take whatever you throw at it. There's a a couple of guys here in sweden that runs 2,5+ bar (~35psi) all day long, one of them that runs both supercharger and turbo keep trashing his gearbox all the time though XD

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

How about this? Keep OIL in it!:aigo:

The challenge is to keep only oil alone where it belongs oem hg & toque specs ftl.

 

[IJ.]

say what? why would a 7M be harder to build than any other engine?
Just do everything properly, make sure its clean and measure everything. Take your time, don't try to put it together in a hurry.

I think the 7M is a great engine, just build it right and it can take whatever you throw at it. There's a a couple of guys here in sweden that runs 2,5+ bar (~35psi) all day long, one of them that runs both supercharger and turbo keep trashing his gearbox all the time though XD

A LOT of these guys could fuck up a Briggs and Stratton rebuild Joey

 

[Doward]

BTW, MAKE CERTAIN you prime the oil BEFORE you ever spin the motor over. You want to see oil at the cams, then (with the EFI fuse pulled) spin the motor over until you see oil pressure - check for leaks, THEN fire it up.