What did you do to your supra today? Pics

[Dan_Gyoba]

@Doat: Get the AFPR. It's really worthwhile with the larger injectors, particularly with the upgraded fuel pump. You'll be heading off problems right there.

@Faye: I'm very good at both, and crimping really is the best way. Back when I had crappier tools and wasn't as good at it, I used to solder everything, but I aim for longer term repairs now. Yes, I used heat shrink on my connectors as well. It's not the crimp connector that causes corrosion, it's the exposure to oxygen, and hot air is worse. A solder joint will also corrode badly if left exposed.

I'm going to change the last seal on my targa today. Not looking forward to what I get to deal with in there.

 

[Doat]

I thought a fuel pump wasn't necessary for the lex afm/550 upgrade?

 

[3p141592654]

All I can say is "know your end goals". I did RC 550's with a Denso mkiv fuel pump on stock rail and ecu. I have trouble with over feeding and can't idle as smoothly as I would like.

The RC550s are fine, but they have two obvious issues that no one ever addresses. First, the turn on times vs voltage are different from the stock injectors, so this table needs to be recalibrated in the ECU code. Second, they draw a lot more current, and that means they are even slower than the times given by the manufacturer since the stock ECU injector drivers cannot provide the full drive current. These limitations can be addressed with the piggy back I am working on but do cause issues with a stock ECU.

 

[Backlash2032]

What injectors would you recommend for the factory ecu then?

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[Grandavi]

The RC550s are fine, but they have two obvious issues that no one ever addresses. First, the turn on times vs voltage are different from the stock injectors, so this table needs to be recalibrated in the ECU code. Second, they draw a lot more current, and that means they are even slower than the times given by the manufacturer since the stock ECU injector drivers cannot provide the full drive current. These limitations can be addressed with the piggy back I am working on but do cause issues with a stock ECU.

Yeah, I found they are find for most people, but if your looking at being finicky... they are older technology on top of older technology. Its why I decided to abandon them. Perfectly fine for most applications.. but I wanted as much control as possible.

I thought a fuel pump wasn't necessary for the lex afm/550 upgrade?

Fuel pump is not necessary (I see almost everyone recommending a 255 lph Walbro or something similar.. so I may be wrong), depending... There is more factors than just the AFM/550... like exhaust, turbo, intercooler, etc... With the 550's and my setup with the upgraded 60-1 CT26.. I didn't need the fuel pump upgrade. In fact.. it caused problems because the Denso MKIV fuel pump actually feeds more than the normal upgrade to 255 lph... (Walbro) which I wasn't aware of. Good for keeping the cylinder walls clean.. lol. Luckily I had the AFPR and could dial down the fuel pressure.

 

[3p141592654]

Also: when I changed my clips, I soldered. I think that it is the better way to go, personally. Reason being the wires can get pretty corroded from crimp connectors (have had to replace many from po from too high of resistance in through the wires causing problems) if they are not the heat shrink type, of course, or if you do not put heat shrink on them. Cleaning up the wires of any corrosion with flux and then soldering allows a nice clean thick contact between the 2 wires. Anyone can be lousy at soldering and create a heap of gunk that can snap easily, but if done properly, with overlapped and using only a dab solder, it should be very solid. That being said, the factory repair procedure for fixing wires per TSBs for VW of America recommends crimp connectors only. (Not sure about Toyota)

The factory harness is all crimps, that should answer the question. Gas tight crimps are superior to solder for most applications. Still, solder can be acceptable, especially for high frequency RF connections. It takes professional crimpers to make a reliable connection. IDC connectors are another matter, although they can be reliable if done right.

 

[Grandavi]

My end goal is just to get roughly 300hp out of the 7M then dump everything I got into my 2jzge-T setup. Basically I just want to get rid of my fuel cut now and add on a catback exhaust, so I want to get new injectors and a catback system but like I said I already have the muffler so I will probably buy a high flow cat to pass emissions and have my guy weld up the rest. From what I understand to get rid of my fuel cut problems I need a lexus afm and 550CC injectors but some people also get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and from the guy I plan on buying my injectors from he is throwing in a fuel dampener bypass line.

You will top 300 HP with a 3" exhaust, Lexus AFM, 550 injector upgrade (without touching the intercooler). The 7M LOVES a 3" exhaust.. its an eye-opener .. lol. The AFM helps with fuel cut (not necessarily eliminating it depending on your setup.
Honestly.. I wouldn't do a thing past 3" exhaust if I was going to drop a 2jz into it later. Its a waste of money.

My car (Lexus AFM, 550 injectors, 3" exhaust, stock BOV, stock intercooler, 57 trim CT26) dyno'd 300 rwhp and at that point was 368 ft-lbs of torque (the beauty of the 7M.. its a stroker 2j... lol).
all you need really is the 550's (I used RC PL8 550's because they are cheap and work perfect), AFM upgrade (to fool the ECU and prevent fuel cut) and a boost controller (or shim the wastegate). The car is a different beast with just a simple 3" exhaust upgrade.

Everything else is a waste unless your shooting for 400+

 

[Doat]

Yea I plan on just staying at 3in exhaust, and the lex/550 upgrade. So what injectors do you guys recommend? I don't want to run injectors that will give me problems or are too slow I see a lot of people running ID injectors but they usually have like 1000CC lol. And what AFPR do you guys suggest as well? Would I also have problems if I run a fuel dampener bypass line or would it better to just leave the stock dampener on?

 

[Grandavi]

Basically.. any low impedance 550 injector will do (RC 550's are most common.. PL8 is the number). They wont give you any trouble at all, ID injectors are for if your going to be shooting for higher HP later on.. and are a waste on a stock ECU system (not even sure if they wont mega-overfeed on a stock ECU honestly... ) plus they are expensive. Aeromotive AFPR (Driftmotion sells them) are a very nice setup. Don't really need to worry about the fuel dampener as far as I know.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-afprkit7m-gte.php

Now we are getting into tech-talk better left to a separate post in another area... lol.

The 255 lph fuel pump upgrade is to ensure you don't lean out at higher boosts. I am not 100% sure if its necessary with a 550/AFM/3" exhaust upgrade. Your stock ECU will control the 550 injectors exactly like stock from my experience, so no worries there. The Lexus AFM just matches the increased fuel feed to the increased air flow (thus fooling the ECU). The only problem is you will run very richat higher boost (which wont kill your 7M). Running lean is what you want to worry about, which is why most will put on a wideband to monitor the AFR's. A fuel control piggy back would help, but if your going to be replacing the 7M.. that's a bit more than what I would do..

 

[Doat]

I won't be swapping in the 2jz anytime soon also I plan on selling the 7M to a friend to swap in his MK2. I just want to get some power out of the old girl but nothing crazy and unreliable. I thought about a wideband as well but have been told it's really not worth it for my goal with the 7M. I would make a thread but I know what will happen, "use the search button" even though I have thoroughly but some questions of mine were not answered, etc. and you know who will chime in with his vague advice.

Real quick recap, RC 550s will be fine for me, AFPR from DM to monitor and adjust fuel pressure, and a 3in catback.

 

[Grandavi]

AFPR if you put in a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump.. otherwise.. not truly needed. 3" full exhaust.. not just catback. The stock turbo elbow is a bottleneck.. (poor design) so your choice of DP is important. And don't just get a 3" DP and 3" catback without thinking about your catalytic converters. You can get 3" full flow cats as well (I could delete mine.. so I did. Not necessary where I live). Also, be aware that you want to make sure the exhaust flanges are flat before putting it all together. They tend to warp with the amount of welding necessary and the manufacturer does not machine them flat afterwards. A warp can cause problems later on.. I machined all of mine perfectly flat to make sure of a solid fitment with no "stress" areas.
The wideband is really the only way to monitor your AFR's. with the 57 Trim, I wouldn't have known my AFR's were 10 (as rich as it would read) which is what was keeping me from getting more power. Fuel displacing air was limiting me. With the AFPR, I could turn down the fuel pressure (I was overfeeding with the larger fuel pump), but without the wideband I wouldn't know that. The biggest issue was washing the oil off the cylinders at full boost because I was sending in so much fuel. Not a good thing to happen.. lol.

Plus.. the last thing you want to do is run lean and have detonation occur. (which is why the stock ECU keeps it rich.. )

Also... you don't need a K&N filter.. lol. I ran stock airbox with stock filter..

Here's a good post if you can see it:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-152334.html

**Note... I disagree with their Step 1...

**another note... if your shooting for 400+ rwhp at anytime.. be aware.. the CT26 is a sturdy "old technology" turbo. Great for what it does up to a point. The one thing that happened to me is I outgrew the CT26. It can only flow so much (due to its small housing) so there is a limit to what it can do. In the end.. I should have gone T4. I also should have gone stand alone right from the start. People told me that, and I didn't understand why (the danger of reading too much and understanding too little). If I had went with what some of the "smarter" members told me.. it would have saved me a fair chunk of money in the end. Yeah... more expensive at first glance.. but a lot cheaper than doing it 2 or 3 times... lol.

 

[Backlash2032]

Grandavi, did you bypass the j tube?

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[Austin2048]

After 2 hhours of driving around Appleton I found a motorcycle shop that had one valve stem in stock that would fit my wheels. $10.95 for a pair of these motorcycle valve stems. I bought the one and have to order more. Took my car back to the shop and had them change the one that leaked the most. At least now I can get the spare off

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[Doat]

AFPR if you put in a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump.. otherwise.. not truly needed. 3" full exhaust.. not just catback. The stock turbo elbow is a bottleneck.. (poor design) so your choice of DP is important. And don't just get a 3" DP and 3" catback without thinking about your catalytic converters. You can get 3" full flow cats as well (I could delete mine.. so I did. Not necessary where I live). Also, be aware that you want to make sure the exhaust flanges are flat before putting it all together. They tend to warp with the amount of welding necessary and the manufacturer does not machine them flat afterwards. A warp can cause problems later on.. I machined all of mine perfectly flat to make sure of a solid fitment with no "stress" areas.
The wideband is really the only way to monitor your AFR's. with the 57 Trim, I wouldn't have known my AFR's were 10 (as rich as it would read) which is what was keeping me from getting more power. Fuel displacing air was limiting me. With the AFPR, I could turn down the fuel pressure (I was overfeeding with the larger fuel pump), but without the wideband I wouldn't know that. The biggest issue was washing the oil off the cylinders at full boost because I was sending in so much fuel. Not a good thing to happen.. lol.

Plus.. the last thing you want to do is run lean and have detonation occur. (which is why the stock ECU keeps it rich.. )

Also... you don't need a K&N filter.. lol. I ran stock airbox with stock filter..

Here's a good post if you can see it:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-152334.html

**Note... I disagree with their Step 1...

**another note... if your shooting for 400+ rwhp at anytime.. be aware.. the CT26 is a sturdy "old technology" turbo. Great for what it does up to a point. The one thing that happened to me is I outgrew the CT26. It can only flow so much (due to its small housing) so there is a limit to what it can do. In the end.. I should have gone T4. I also should have gone stand alone right from the start. People told me that, and I didn't understand why (the danger of reading too much and understanding too little). If I had went with what some of the "smarter" members told me.. it would have saved me a fair chunk of money in the end. Yeah... more expensive at first glance.. but a lot cheaper than doing it 2 or 3 times... lol.

I already have a 3in divorced downpipe installed, so I will be connecting the cat and cat back exhaust to that and it will be a full 3in exhaust. Like I said I only want roughly 300hp out of the old girl and I know the CT26 is limited to about 15psi or so and I won't be going that high with boost anyway. I think in Texas we need to have cats but when my car hits 25 years I won't need to worry.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

You should bypass the J tube at the point that you upgrade either the fuel pump, or the pressure regulator. The fuel pump because it will flow more, and the J tube can cause elevated fuel pressure there. The pressure regulator because the restriction can throw off the regulator. You should also bypass the J tube if you do a full-time 12V mod for the factory fuel pump.

 

[Grandavi]

Grandavi, did you bypass the j tube?

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Yeah the DM AFPR comes with the jtube block off and I used it.

I didn't do the 12v fuel pump mod.

 

[Doat]

Thanks for the help and advice you guys are the best and Grandavi you are the world's greatest dad <3

 

[Backlash2032]

Yeah the DM AFPR comes with the jtube block off and I used it.

I didn't do the 12v fuel pump mod.

I mean before the afpr. I'm running on a walbro with the factory fpr, and a bypassed j tube. No AFR monitoring tools. Wondering if you had an upgraded pump with the j tube and that's why you were getting over fuel issues.

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[Grandavi]

Thanks for the help and advice you guys are the best and Grandavi you are the world's greatest dad <3

lol.. just buying a 87 Supra for my son this weekend... that probably qualifies me.

I mean before the afpr. I'm running on a walbro with the factory fpr, and a bypassed j tube. No AFR monitoring tools. Wondering if you had an upgraded pump with the j tube and that's why you were getting over fuel issues.

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Yeah, before I got the AFPR, I was running the Denso MKIV fuel pump with the jtube still not bypassed with no issues at all. I had to replace my fuel tank and did the Denso MKIV fuel pump at that time because I got a stinking good deal on the pump and had to pull the tank anyway. It just ran on the stock fuel system and I couldn't even tell I did the swap.

It wasn't until after all the upgrades that I remembered that I had the Denso MKIV and we figured out that at the "normal" fuel pressure setting that we were overfeeding the injectors. (the j-tube was blocked at that point)

I think the Denso MKIV fuel pump flows 280 lph. I think that is good for 450-500 rwhp reliably. After that I think it might be pushing it. Not certain though, because the calculations to figure that out is a bit confusing to me because its based on flow@pressure.

 

[Backlash2032]

Okay. I think I follow lol. So I shouldn't be having over fuelling issues with a walbro and bypassed j tube?

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