What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
I don't think we need a reminder that your car is a Supra MK3 Sside lol. I kind of wish I got 15% tint instead of 25% but it looks great, so fug it.
This morning I took the poopra to a local car meet here in Houston called Cars and Coffee, lots of exotics and classics, everything you can think of. I parked my car across from MK4s and an MK2 supra and before I got out people were merging over toward me lol.
This morning I took the poopra to a local car meet here in Houston called Cars and Coffee, lots of exotics and classics, everything you can think of. I parked my car across from MK4s and an MK2 supra and before I got out people were merging over toward me lol.
Sside;1956632 said:Uploaded a mini video of my car for anyone curios about how my tint looks.... (Make sure to watch it in 1080P, short video should load quick)
Dammit Sside, you may have just convinced me that plain old Tokico's and Eibachs wont cut it. That stance looks amazing. What are you running for suspension?
JDMMA70;1956758 said:I because my camera died took a picture of my car. So I was only able to take one picture. I washed the car in case anyone is wondering what I "did" haha
My bumpers need to be resprayed hopefully will do that before the year is over
The car looks good. I always like the blue two-tones. I also need to have my bumpers repainted.
Made a little progress I had a hankering to wrench on something, so I removed the rest of the intake manifold, various hoses and lines, and power steering hose.
Walking to go get mine. Got drunk at a party and left it to walk home
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Yea, i was only a few blocks away from my apartment so I figured it wasn't too far of a walk for me to stagger home and it beats getting a dui or hitting someone/something
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta
another supra potentially saved.
got my trans installed! my problem before was 5th gear thrust washer split in half due to improper notch seating after beating on counter shaft. i searched "r154 5th gear thrust washer" under shopping on google and some jeep parts popped up. this is when i remembered watching the ax-15 rebuild on youtube (jeep 5spd, almost identical to ours inside) i eventually found a pic of the ax-15 washer and couldnt tell a difference.
so yesterday i got about 4 hrs of sleep and woke up itching to go to the junk yard to hunt for a cherokee with a 5spd (didnt think id get a hit but i found 5 of em all on the same row) i pulled the first rwd i saw. the case removal is a little different how the shift shaft goes but overall it was the same. i just split the rear case with it still on the truck.
i miced everything out to make sure it was indeed the correct part and started assembling last night after midnight. i got everything re-cleaned and assembled and the trans back in the car at 6am this morning. i would have went further but the rear seal that came in my marlin kit doesnt seem to be correct. luckily vatozone had the timken seal in stock and i just got it.
and now back to work.
got my trans installed! my problem before was 5th gear thrust washer split in half due to improper notch seating after beating on counter shaft. i searched "r154 5th gear thrust washer" under shopping on google and some jeep parts popped up. this is when i remembered watching the ax-15 rebuild on youtube (jeep 5spd, almost identical to ours inside) i eventually found a pic of the ax-15 washer and couldnt tell a difference.
so yesterday i got about 4 hrs of sleep and woke up itching to go to the junk yard to hunt for a cherokee with a 5spd (didnt think id get a hit but i found 5 of em all on the same row) i pulled the first rwd i saw. the case removal is a little different how the shift shaft goes but overall it was the same. i just split the rear case with it still on the truck.
i miced everything out to make sure it was indeed the correct part and started assembling last night after midnight. i got everything re-cleaned and assembled and the trans back in the car at 6am this morning. i would have went further but the rear seal that came in my marlin kit doesnt seem to be correct. luckily vatozone had the timken seal in stock and i just got it.
and now back to work.
Not today, but a few weeks back. Drove through Rocky Mountain National Park. Got a decent pic and an iffy one showing my horrible hood in need of paint and windshield trim.
So jealous of everyone getting to drive their Supras this weekend!
In my ongoing repair I removed the number 3 valve cover today:
Pretty nice to know I am running a prototype oil cooled spark plug galley...
On a positive note the head bolts appear to be torqued correctly! Looks like Toyota got it right by 2007
In my ongoing repair I removed the number 3 valve cover today:
Pretty nice to know I am running a prototype oil cooled spark plug galley...
On a positive note the head bolts appear to be torqued correctly! Looks like Toyota got it right by 2007
suprarx7nut;1956871 said:Not today, but a few weeks back. Drove through Rocky Mountain National Park. Got a decent pic and an iffy one showing my horrible hood in need of paint and windshield trim.
Those are cool pictures, looks like you are on top of the world. I wish we had real mountains here.
I'd love and be terrified of a mountain run in my MK3 in its current state with stock 20 year suspension but I also wish TX had mountains.
Built this little device
The problem: My LED gauge lights keep burning out. They're cheap eBay 194/74 lamps, so the regulation on the lamp is clearly inadequate. The dimmer rheostat on my car is burnt out. I have 2 good ones, but someone's done something with the wiring, and I know from experience that as soon as you do that, chances are the first thing that happens is you burn out that rheostat. Instantly.
What I really SHOULD do is figure out what was changed, and undo it. This is the plan with the help of my shiny new 1990 TEWD. In the meantime, I just want my dash lights not to burn out in a matter of a couple of weeks.
Given that the lights actually work, and don't burn out instantly, I figured that what they need is just a little extra safety margin. The rheostat was bypassed using a length of wire with a pair of male spade terminals plugged into pins 3 and 4 of the wiring harness connector. Given that I've installed LEDs, I'm not going to dim the lights anymore... Well, not really, and I'm certainly not going to get a linear response from a rheostat anyway. (I might build a PWM controller in the future. I think it'd be kind of a cool project, but I'd have to isolate the dash lights from the other things on that lighting circuit, and I'm not going there now.)
So... A simple idea. A resistor to induce a voltage drop. I tried a single 10 ohm/5W resistor at first, but the climate control doesn't really like it, and will decide to shut off. It visibly dims the dashboard lighting as well. Not terribly so, but noticeably. I actually kind of like that at night, but I don't like the climate control deciding that it's TOO dimmed, and shutting off. I COULD have gone back to the store and bought a smaller value resistor, but instead, I decided to make use of Ohm's law, and just paired the devices. Half the resistance with 2 in parallel. I also get twice the power dissipation, so it should be good. With a little luck, this is enough buffer to the LED lamps so that they won't burn out right away.
I bought enough of those LED 194s to do the marker lights and sth, but with the performance in the dash, I'm just not going to. I guess I'll use them for other 12V PC based projects, where the 12V provided isn't going to climb to ~14V ever, and be nice and regulated. They will probably last a good long time that way.
The problem: My LED gauge lights keep burning out. They're cheap eBay 194/74 lamps, so the regulation on the lamp is clearly inadequate. The dimmer rheostat on my car is burnt out. I have 2 good ones, but someone's done something with the wiring, and I know from experience that as soon as you do that, chances are the first thing that happens is you burn out that rheostat. Instantly.
What I really SHOULD do is figure out what was changed, and undo it. This is the plan with the help of my shiny new 1990 TEWD. In the meantime, I just want my dash lights not to burn out in a matter of a couple of weeks.
Given that the lights actually work, and don't burn out instantly, I figured that what they need is just a little extra safety margin. The rheostat was bypassed using a length of wire with a pair of male spade terminals plugged into pins 3 and 4 of the wiring harness connector. Given that I've installed LEDs, I'm not going to dim the lights anymore... Well, not really, and I'm certainly not going to get a linear response from a rheostat anyway. (I might build a PWM controller in the future. I think it'd be kind of a cool project, but I'd have to isolate the dash lights from the other things on that lighting circuit, and I'm not going there now.)
So... A simple idea. A resistor to induce a voltage drop. I tried a single 10 ohm/5W resistor at first, but the climate control doesn't really like it, and will decide to shut off. It visibly dims the dashboard lighting as well. Not terribly so, but noticeably. I actually kind of like that at night, but I don't like the climate control deciding that it's TOO dimmed, and shutting off. I COULD have gone back to the store and bought a smaller value resistor, but instead, I decided to make use of Ohm's law, and just paired the devices. Half the resistance with 2 in parallel. I also get twice the power dissipation, so it should be good. With a little luck, this is enough buffer to the LED lamps so that they won't burn out right away.
I bought enough of those LED 194s to do the marker lights and sth, but with the performance in the dash, I'm just not going to. I guess I'll use them for other 12V PC based projects, where the 12V provided isn't going to climb to ~14V ever, and be nice and regulated. They will probably last a good long time that way.
Wouldn't it be easier to buy better LEDs like from superbrightleds.com? I am using their LEDs for my dome, courtesy, turn signals, parking, license plate, reverse, and brake lights and they work and look fantastic.
It would have been easier if I had bought them in the first place. I didn't, and the extra $1.49 spent on a couple of ceramic resistors is still cheaper. The lesson here for the reader is partially about the solution to the problem, and partly about avoiding the problem in the first place. I'll use the LEDs that I bought (Actually, the slightly reduced brightness at night is an improvement. They're still a very nice white colour, just a little less harsh.)
