What are good brakes

[supraguru05]

Just figured I would chime in here since I have significant actual race experience. I am still running factory calipers and rotors. The Doward "big brake" kit does not provide increased braking torque period. That is a fact, not saying anything about the quality of the kit or any side benefits but it does not increase braking torque. I do not know about any of the ARZ kits because he does not list piston diameters on his site.

To the OP. I have no idea what kind of activities you are doing. Your braking needs will depend highly on this. For my needs I run Carbotech RP2 up front and XP10s in the rear. I match those with napa blank rotors. I have had typical surface cracking on the rotors but have not had any cracks in the vent structure. I did initiate a crack on a autozone duralast rotor last year. I inspect my brakes twice a day during races and discovered the crack before it could propegate through the surface. I have full 3 inch brake ducts front and rear. Based on this, I would not spend the additional money for slotted or drilled rotors. The powerslot rotors are double the cost of a standard replacement rotor.

I dont believe you are doing anything that extreme so for a street car I would simply get good brake fluid such as ATE super blue, blank rotors from a parts store and a high performance pad. Axis metal masters used to be available, but I cant seem to find them anywhere right now. I dont have a street pad recommendation at this point sorry

 

[hvyman]

I like the ebc red stuff pads and trd carbon ceramic pads for the streets. At bare min i wouldnt use anything less than oem toyota.

+1 on napa blacnk rotors, There something like 35$ for each one.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

i was about to say +1 for ebc greenstuff / redstuff

 

[hvyman]

Red stuff stop hard after being broken in.

 

[Poodles]

Slotted rotors do not scrape the pads :3d_frown:

 

[IJ.]

Slotted rotors do not scrape the pads :3d_frown:

x2...

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

slots are only there to clear gasses that some kinds of pads produce (i dont know witch) and evaporating water right?

 

[NashMan]

Slotted rotors do not scrape the pads :3d_frown:

badly worded on my part..... they cut into the pads thus why slotted rotors make more heat and mostly used on metallic pads or race pads......

 

[Poodles]

No, they don't. The only thing they can do it allow anything caught between the pad and rotor an escape. They won't increase pad wear.

 

[IJ.]

badly worded on my part..... they cut into the pads thus why slotted rotors make more heat and mostly used on metallic pads or race pads......

Ever sharpened a drill bit?

If the cutting edge doesn't have a back relief it doesn't cut it just rubs no matter how sharp the edge... same deal on a slot there's no relief so it can't cut.

 

[NashMan]

Just figured I would chime in here since I have significant actual race experience. I am still running factory calipers and rotors. The Doward "big brake" kit does not provide increased braking torque period. That is a fact, not saying anything about the quality of the kit or any side benefits but it does not increase braking torque. I do not know about any of the ARZ kits because he does not list piston diameters on his site.

To the OP. I have no idea what kind of activities you are doing. Your braking needs will depend highly on this. For my needs I run Carbotech RP2 up front and XP10s in the rear. I match those with napa blank rotors. I have had typical surface cracking on the rotors but have not had any cracks in the vent structure. I did initiate a crack on a autozone duralast rotor last year. I inspect my brakes twice a day during races and discovered the crack before it could propegate through the surface. I have full 3 inch brake ducts front and rear. Based on this, I would not spend the additional money for slotted or drilled rotors. The powerslot rotors are double the cost of a standard replacement rotor.

I dont believe you are doing anything that extreme so for a street car I would simply get good brake fluid such as ATE super blue, blank rotors from a parts store and a high performance pad. Axis metal masters used to be available, but I cant seem to find them anywhere right now. I dont have a street pad recommendation at this point sorry

nice nice good info...... you should try motul 660 the shit is bad ass I used to run the bule stuff, but the motul stuff is better. it's not cheep thou.... http://www.motul-canada.com/en/products/products_brakefluid.shtml?panel=0

 

[NashMan]

Ever sharpened a drill bit?

If the cutting edge doesn't have a back relief it doesn't cut it just rubs no matter how sharp the edge... same deal on a slot there's no relief so it can't cut.

well it cuts just not much but cleans the pad every time it pass the slot

and ventilated rotors vent form inside out and spiral rotors point rear word

 

[Poodles]

All vented rotors go from the inside out.

 

[IJ.]

well it cuts just not much but cleans the pad every time it pass the slot

and ventilated rotors vent form inside out and spiral rotors point rear word

NO no it's doesn't "CUT" at all.... :nono:

For it to "cut" either the pad would need to deform as it passed over the slot trimming it or the slot would need a back relief which it doesn't have, I don't understand why you're not getting this...

If it were cutting at all Pad life would be HUGELY reduced this isn't the case.

 

[NashMan]

NO no it's doesn't "CUT" at all.... :nono:

For it to "cut" either the pad would need to deform as it passed over the slot trimming it or the slot would need a back relief which it doesn't have, I don't understand why you're not getting this...

If it were cutting at all Pad life would be HUGELY reduced this isn't the case.

pad life is short with a slotted rotor, pads do expand same as the rotor, when heated the rotor will quiver and not have a perfect parallelism

then reverts back to shape once cooled in less heavily over heat and used when over heated


that about it really

 

[Raven97990]

Slotted rotors do not reduce pad life, coming from experience. In my tow rig I used to need pads twice a year. Using a slotted rotor I'm now at nearly a year and a half I'm on the same pads that went on with the rotors, same brands as before.

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk

 

[IJ.]

pad life is short with a slotted rotor, pads do expand same as the rotor, when heated the rotor will quiver and not have a perfect parallelism

then reverts back to shape once cooled in less heavily over heat and used when over heated


that about it really

Yes pads expand when hot as do rotors but a PAD doesn't deform and compress into the slots and this is the only way it can "CUT" and that's what is being debated here.. NO slots do not reduce pad life FFS I did this shit for a living when I was younger.

Without a leading edge it's NOT going to cut.

Rotors are NEVER cut true anyway you always have a thou or 2 of runout so they can knock the pads/pistons back into the caliper body so they don't squeal like pig when driving.

Sit back and actually READ what I've posted then think about it a bit instead of always thinking you're right and trying to convince us of it.

 

[NashMan]

Yes pads expand when hot as do rotors but a PAD doesn't deform and compress into the slots and this is the only way it can "CUT" and that's what is being debated here.. NO slots do not reduce pad life FFS I did this shit for a living when I was younger.

Without a leading edge it's NOT going to cut.

Rotors are NEVER cut true anyway you always have a thou or 2 of runout so they can knock the pads/pistons back into the caliper body so they don't squeal like pig when driving.

Sit back and actually READ what I've posted then think about it a bit instead of always thinking you're right and trying to convince us of it.

rotors do not knock the piston back but will slef adjust accordingly sorry ian they will all ways self adjust unlike drum brakes they self energizes and have to be adjusted in revuse or done manually
thus why drum brake are not used to this day

the square cut seals will bend when the brake is applied then the seal's retract when you release the pressure
they act as the return spring in less there sized or the soft line is pinched causing the caliper to drag and not return the pressure to the master and bleed the pressure out

 

[NashMan]

Slotted rotors do not reduce pad life, coming from experience. In my tow rig I used to need pads twice a year. Using a slotted rotor I'm now at nearly a year and a half I'm on the same pads that went on with the rotors, same brands as before.

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk

i have replaced mine more then i should have in my truck that confronts water alot reson for runing was it's better then stock when i dunk my truck in water ie i ran power slot rotors since they do not make drilled rotor for my truck... it is wheel that want good bite from the start and dispates water better

---------- Post added at 12:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:13 AM ----------

to end this all I find for my self a drilled rotor is great in less you are running a long road course on you stock setup



remember the stock pads are organic

 

[IJ.]

rotors do not knock the piston back but will slef adjust accordingly sorry ian they will all ways self adjust unlike drum brakes they self energizes and have to be adjusted in revuse or done manually
thus why drum brake are not used to this day

the square cut seals will bend when the brake is applied then the seal's retract when you release the pressure
they act as the return spring in less there sized or the soft line is pinched causing the caliper to drag and not return the pressure to the master and bleed the pressure out

Who said anything about selfadjusting??

I'm well aware how square cut seals work, again try reading what I posted and NOT just spouting of 2nd hand knowledge.

Actually we've been down this road many times in the past, try building something that stays together for longer than 5 minutes and I'll listen to what you have to say, till then I'm done and will just ignore anything you post as you know it all...