What are good brakes

[hvyman]

Beefy how do the 6 piston weigh?

Indeed the 4 piston superlite weigh almost nothing. Roommate has them on his 240. Such quality and such a fair price.

 

[honestabe]

Here's my ARZ 4-piston 13" rotor setup. The wheels are 17x8 +27 MB Wheels Weapons. The spokes stick out where the calipers are so they clear easily. In one of the photo's you can see the difference between stock and athe ARZ setup. As you can see I had to paint part of the rotor with caliper paint to prevent rust (discovered this at the 2010 PacNW Supra Nationals). I'm contemplating spraying the calipers gloss black (only where it's currently black of course) to add a bit of pop since the black is currently a blah. It really is a nice setup.

 

[hvyman]

So sexy!!

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

yeah these kits look so good.
i didnt crack out the scales hvyman but the 6pot superlights felt like they weighed about half as much as the original calipers (both with pads in). The ARZ rotors are heavier of course but overall it felt like the 6pot front kit weighed a very similar amount to the standard front setup.

the rotors are so huge. 330mm of pure braking justice

i think my favorite part is how thick they are though. super cooling

when its all assembled the rotor looks smaller than 330mm imo as the caliper dwarfs it

please excuse hand print on rotor haha

i bought these just a month or so ago Honestabe and Andy said that they are E-coating all their rotors as standard now. which is superior to the zinc plating option that they used to offer to prevent rust.
so that will take care of the inner rotor rusting issue. i lucked out there.
i was told by a mechanic friend that only BMW and merc e-coat their brake rotors from factory or something like that. pretty hardcore stuff

 

[honestabe]

I bought mine used from a fellow SM member and if you look at 2 of my shots you can see how the previous owner bead blasted my rotors to prevent rust. Does the e-coating work to prevent rust everywhere it is? I hope my caliper paint will work to prevent rust.

 

[hvyman]

Could always buy the e coated rotors when those are shot.

 

[honestabe]

Good point. I really haven't driven my Supra at all since I installed my ARZ setup. Once I get it back shortly though you can bet that I'll be driving it as much as possible.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

yeah the e-coating is thick and inside and out. i reckon it will do a great job. time will tell.

 

[te72]

I thought ARZ could e-coat the rotors for you before they're shipped? Seem to remember Andy mentioning that at some point.

 

[toyotanos]

The rotors come coated standard, now. Not sure when it changed but mine were coated without any special instruction... The rotor hats came natural, so I think Beefy might have had them coated himself.

 

[honestabe]

Andy probably can since it looks like e-coating is now standard. I bought my ARZ kit used so it wasn't an option for me.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

the hats are anodized. Its hard to tell from the pictures. The colour is so smooth. Having them anodized is an option for $40 extra, probably a fairly recent thing.

 

[NashMan]

Drilled, definately not (unless you like cracks), slotted maybe, but it's still a waste.

There's not a whole lot of mass to work with, so outside of a good set of aggressive pads and quality rotors (ones without slots or holes), there's not much you can do. Going bigger is the better option if you can afford it.

are you on crack mine have not cracked at all all give ya a hint pay cheep price for any thing you get what you pay for same with brake pads

i whoudl rather have drilled rotor then blank rotor

resons

strounger bite
great in the rain
cools faster
fading from gassy pads is alot less

or running rotor's that are made from organic linings (cheep) and then run a semi metallic or full blown race pads or even synthicks pads

mutul 660 brake fulid russle brake lines kvr drilled and porterfield pads works very well

is it the best naaaa bigger is all ways better but unsprung weight sucks too




whne will carbon brakes be cheep hhehehehhe

 

[Poodles]

Then you haven't driven your car hard enough...

 

[steven89]

Im kinda curious, which of these setups have each of you even tried? [Poodles?] I mean, there obviously HAS to be a reason for someone to want to drill or slot their rotors in the first place.. And also why companies offer em in all options [blank,slotted, or drilled] People don't do stuff just to be different there has to be an improvement.

And obviously going bigger is the solution, but with stock sizes. Theres no way going slotted/cryotreated ISNT an an improvement over stock. Or why would the manufacturers even bother?

 

[hvyman]

They do it for the moneyz. Oh you got drilled and slotted rotors im going to get those.

Do they make a big difference? Yeah major(sarcasm)

In reality your never going to feel the difference.

A good pad you wil feel a difference esp if you get on the brakes hard over and over. A weak rotor will just start warping(cracking) with high heat and stress.

 

[IJ.]

Have a look at a high milage/hard use Porsche with drilled rotors, it will have cracks and Porsche don't buy their Discs from Napa.... :nono:
(or most any race car the day before an inspection where they replace them)

 

[Poodles]

Im kinda curious, which of these setups have each of you even tried? [Poodles?] I mean, there obviously HAS to be a reason for someone to want to drill or slot their rotors in the first place.. And also why companies offer em in all options [blank,slotted, or drilled] People don't do stuff just to be different there has to be an improvement.

And obviously going bigger is the solution, but with stock sizes. Theres no way going slotted/cryotreated ISNT an an improvement over stock. Or why would the manufacturers even bother?

Crossdrilled was originally done on racecars to allow the gasses to escape. Brake pad technology is far better these days, and it isn't an issue anymore. They crossdrill rotors on "high end" cars because of the perceived improvement in the consumer's eyes (i.e. company will do what the customer wants). Also of note, most high end cars that come with crossdrilled rotors are designed for them. They're not normal rotors that are just drilled (as every single stock replacement rotor for our cars is). Most high end cars have brakes that cost more than the average MKIII as well (and the owners can afford to replace them)

Slotted covers the same ground, but doesn't have the "cut along dotted line" aspect of crossdrilled. Either way, the stop brake setup doesn't have enough mass to deal with the heat, causing transfer of that heat into the brake fluid. Brake fluid boils, causing fade.

Also, drilled and slotted rotors are 100% ricer garbage and don't belong on a real performance car. You do one or the other, not both.

Modern racecars either have neither (as is the case with F1 cars) or slotted (WRC for example, but usually they're an odd slotted). Can't think of any current serious race application that favors crossdrilled.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

Good info ^^^ ! This was my understanding of the cross-drilled phenomenon also.

 

[NashMan]

Crossdrilled was originally done on racecars to allow the gasses to escape. Brake pad technology is far better these days, and it isn't an issue anymore. They crossdrill rotors on "high end" cars because of the perceived improvement in the consumer's eyes (i.e. company will do what the customer wants). Also of note, most high end cars that come with crossdrilled rotors are designed for them. They're not normal rotors that are just drilled (as every single stock replacement rotor for our cars is). Most high end cars have brakes that cost more than the average MKIII as well (and the owners can afford to replace them)

Slotted covers the same ground, but doesn't have the "cut along dotted line" aspect of crossdrilled. Either way, the stop brake setup doesn't have enough mass to deal with the heat, causing transfer of that heat into the brake fluid. Brake fluid boils, causing fade.

Also, drilled and slotted rotors are 100% ricer garbage and don't belong on a real performance car. You do one or the other, not both.

Modern racecars either have neither (as is the case with F1 cars) or slotted (WRC for example, but usually they're an odd slotted). Can't think of any current serious race application that favors crossdrilled.

you have still alot to learn

about brakes

i going to go into very basic and lightly


first off

slotted rotor's (ie not power slot) are use for racing, metallic pads to bring the heat up in the pad so there brakes can work at there proper temperature, metlice pads don't gas as bad as semi or organic pad ie asbestos ect

another part that slotted rotors play is to cut into the pad for a good first bite

now lets say you run power slot and semi metallic pad......and lets say a heat rating of f/f you most likely end up glazing the pad from the heat that will build up from the slots in the rotor since they dig in on every revolution
from the pad gassing then melting and bringing the resin from with in deep in the pad thus destroying the pad and not allowing the pad to cool since not it;s heat transfer has decreased from the glaze that has formed

in the end power slot are shit don't run them and if you do get a poper pad for them (i must say they do work pretty good in the rain since there is slot for gassing from water vapor)



Drilled i pretty much as explained before

they bite quicker
they dispate heat faster
work very very well in the rain
harder to glaze the pad
great for semi metallic pad witch are great for street use because of ware mix with performance it get's (not to hot not to cold)


now to answer this cracking thing cracking comes form thermo shock from being cooled to fast water puddles snow what ever this can happen to any rotor but could be amped up if you using a drilled rotor
now lest say you have a good rotors spun casted in stead(good) of poored cast iron (not as good) and a good mix of carbon and all that other crap that goes into cast iron

these will hold up longer if they were liqued cooled drilled and put in the oven to re heat treat the rotor witch reduseing cracking and takes away the stress crack's ect

now your cheep drilled units are just blanks that are re drilled and then shipped out crappy and will fail ie power stop shit ass rotors (they had a bad wrap for some time not sure what there like now ) and china rotors


now as ian state if you have shit rotor and drill hole in it the rotor might have good chance to crack and from heat , hard spots
then loose it parallelism ( ie thin spots from the rotor having to much heat and haven to much run out wail heated
ie napa brand /lord co/ pep boy /ect

blank rotor's

well they can store more heat then slot and drilled they have the longest life and they can suffer from rain from water vapor
that about somes it up


( there is bmw out there maybe benz don't remember what one but the rain secore on the dash will trigger the absunit to pulsate the calipers to prevent water vapor keeping the rotor hot eghough so it will stay dry)



oh yae drilled and slotted rotors are for show there really use for them in less your crazy about unspung waight might as well run an aluminum rotor or move them in word beside the diff


well i think i explained about as much i chould with my lame ass grammer and spelling skills



gm's low drag caliper were shitty in the rain since they did not wipe the rotor down at all and had shitty performance in the rain since the pad did not drag as much as reg pad a rotor and did not wipe teh rotor down so they used organice pads

so answer to gm to fight this was directionale brake pads