Went to the dyno today and got horrible results - AEM V2 PNP 1JZ

IBoughtASupra

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Figgie,

He said the coils are Forecast Aftermarket coils which I don't believe are anywhere close to the strength of the stock Toyota coils. You can find them on RockAuto.

OneJArpus;1813395 said:
Coils - forecast - part # f3000-138869
 

SWD Fredester 3

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Does AEM have a V1 available for the motor? Just my 2 cents, but I had a discussion with JE about the difference and he stated that there were a lot of problems with the V2 and tuning, V1 was easier to dial in.
 

IJ.

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figgie;1814281 said:
3ms?

Holy crap that is a massive amount. I have calculated lots of ignition coils and rarely do they go above 2ms. If in fact the dwell is 3ms and it ran in the past. Then that points to the coils being fried. WAY to much dwell. Reason is. after the point of coil saturation, the current increases which starts to cook the coils. Not enough dwell and the coils don't charge enough.

Average about 1.4ms charge time.

Op

by chance you have the coil specs on hand? mH sizing of the primary and secondary windings?
coildoh.jpg
 

mkiiichip

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^yep thats the idea.
figgie;1814281 said:
3ms?

Holy crap that is a massive amount. I have calculated lots of ignition coils and rarely do they go above 2ms. If in fact the dwell is 3ms and it ran in the past. Then that points to the coils being fried. WAY to much dwell. Reason is. after the point of coil saturation, the current increases which starts to cook the coils. Not enough dwell and the coils don't charge enough.

Average about 1.4ms charge time.


Damn, i meant to type 2ms, and i was talking about the signal sent to the ignitor from the ecu.
This post refers to what i thought is happening. taken from here http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...lp-needed.-(&p=1393411&viewfull=1#post1393411

bigaaron;1393411 said:
The dwell works well at around 2.1 ms. Toyota ignitors set their own dwell, so you just want to make sure you don't have way too long or too short of a pulse width. If you set it over 2.5ms, the ignition system will not want to rev over about 5k rpm.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1814466 said:
OP,

What have you done since?

I have not done anything yet, i decided to man up and just open up my laptop and check out the settings. I'm on AEMs forum now trying to figure out where to find the dwell settings. I took a few days off because i spent the 2 weeks before the dyno to fix other issues. I will keep you posted, i'll mess with it today & tomorrow.
 

IBoughtASupra

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If I remember correctly,

Go the the table tab and scroll to dwell. That's how it should be. I was in the software a few days ago but it is in the table tab at the top.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1814620 said:
If I remember correctly,

Go the the table tab and scroll to dwell. That's how it should be. I was in the software a few days ago but it is in the table tab at the top.

Yep i downloaded the program so i'll be looking at the dwell settings the base 2jz map has the dwell set @ 3.3-2.8 from 11-14 volts... that could very well be my issues. I'll try and retest
 

OneJArpus

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ok, i checked the dwell and it was set at 3.3ms so i changed it to 2.0 2.1 2.5 to test it and it still has a slight hiccup at 4-5k but it revs to redline no problem now...


I did some looking over on the wiring and i wiggled wires to see if anything would change and found and issues, on the stock computer or the aem wiggling the wires right by the ecu it stalls out. I've come to the conclusion that the pins in the connector are "loose" anyone have a fix to this? I'm thinking of getting rid of the adapter and just wire it directly to the AEM to see if that fully solves the issue which i think it might. We'll see
 

IBoughtASupra

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Cool.

You could have a loose wire in the ECU plugs on your engine harness. Check all of them and if any are worn, just by the pin from Aaron and fix that pin.

You could wire it in directly in but make sure it's not just a single pin or maybe a broken/shaved wire that's shorting out in the harness itself and not by the ECU plugs.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1815113 said:
Cool.

You could have a loose wire in the ECU plugs on your engine harness. Check all of them and if any are worn, just by the pin from Aaron and fix that pin.

You could wire it in directly in but make sure it's not just a single pin or maybe a broken/shaved wire that's shorting out in the harness itself and not by the ECU plugs.

Yea, next weekend i'm going to pull the harness from the car and peel back everything and inspect the wires before the firewall hole all the way to the ecu plugs. Then if it happens i might just pull the whole harness and get it redone who knows... we'll see how this week goes for me.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1815140 said:
Are you good at wiring? If so, make your own using plugs from the Honda ECU.

i consider myself pretty decent.. wired up everything myself so far no issues. I understand wiring diagrams. I have a few honda's in my junk yard right now i'm going to have the guys cut some plugs for me, i gotta find that web page that shows what honds share the same plugs
 

OneJArpus

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Ok, so i figured i'd give it a try this weekend and see what was going on, this is what it happens during free reving now. I went on the highway and at 5K it just sputters and breaks up, now i didnt try to go past it so i left everything alone, i tried another igniter just in case to drive around and same issue. I guess its time to start peeling back at the harness =/


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=bjbYqbK1RVY