Do you think the 200K squirter causes that much oil loss to the bearings? Granted I'm sure an engine with that many miles on it may have other issues with oiling too, but using those in a rebuild would unadvisable?
Ways to cure 7M oiling issues
- Thread starter williamb82
- Start date
^^^ Yep!
At higher rpm (especially with a shimmed pump relief valve), the psi produced (40 psi +) is more than adequate for the bearings...the squirters have little impact. It's at low rpm/psi that can be the problem...if the squirters open up too soon, it will drop pressure/flow to the bearings. That is not a good thing.
At higher rpm (especially with a shimmed pump relief valve), the psi produced (40 psi +) is more than adequate for the bearings...the squirters have little impact. It's at low rpm/psi that can be the problem...if the squirters open up too soon, it will drop pressure/flow to the bearings. That is not a good thing.
I installed one on mine. The jury is still out. I thought I might notice something but it is so barely imperceptible that I was kind of surprised that I didnt notice anything just yet.
It could be that I made so many changes that I dont know if I could attribute any one change to just one thing. I went from a completely stock block to Forged Pistons and Rods, New oil squirter check valves, completely balanced assembly, added an oil pump shim, My oil Pump supply line mod, and a crank scrapper and a baffled oil pan, with several iterations of oil filter adapters and cooler lines and bypass for the oil cooler.
It definitely is not a "BOLT ON" part. You need to fit it and then you need to make sure you get it in exactly the same place during final installation, and then you need to make the pieces that go between the left and right sides of the Crank scrapper, basically you shim your oil pan about .040 inches away from the bottom of the block and the crank scrapper guy expects you to fill that gap (the front and back of the block "the curved part" that bolts to the aluminum front and rear covers) with Silicone, I didnt want to trust just Silicone so a made a piece of gasket that goes in exactly that same place and its already leaking with less than 1500 miles of use. I will probably pop it off and make an aluminum shim to do the same job next time I have the pan off.
I have been meaning to do a build thread on the Z and the Supra I have tons of photos that show what I did and would help to understand what is involved when installing a crank scrapper.
It could be that I made so many changes that I dont know if I could attribute any one change to just one thing. I went from a completely stock block to Forged Pistons and Rods, New oil squirter check valves, completely balanced assembly, added an oil pump shim, My oil Pump supply line mod, and a crank scrapper and a baffled oil pan, with several iterations of oil filter adapters and cooler lines and bypass for the oil cooler.
It definitely is not a "BOLT ON" part. You need to fit it and then you need to make sure you get it in exactly the same place during final installation, and then you need to make the pieces that go between the left and right sides of the Crank scrapper, basically you shim your oil pan about .040 inches away from the bottom of the block and the crank scrapper guy expects you to fill that gap (the front and back of the block "the curved part" that bolts to the aluminum front and rear covers) with Silicone, I didnt want to trust just Silicone so a made a piece of gasket that goes in exactly that same place and its already leaking with less than 1500 miles of use. I will probably pop it off and make an aluminum shim to do the same job next time I have the pan off.
I have been meaning to do a build thread on the Z and the Supra I have tons of photos that show what I did and would help to understand what is involved when installing a crank scrapper.
I don't have mine anymore as when I briefly ran the 6M crank it was the wrong one so I pulled it and sold it and with my modded 7M crank I decided to not buy another.
The GroupA pan has louvres that do the job for me the scraper was like a Belt and Braces.
The GroupA pan has louvres that do the job for me the scraper was like a Belt and Braces.
[what is the difference between 5m oil pum Vs 7m oil pump
QUOTE=spoolint78]did the same thing with my oilpan as well
well worth it.
Good info in this thread
[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=spoolint78]did the same thing with my oilpan as well
well worth it.
Good info in this thread
^^^Did you get my PM?^^^
Please find the post where someone said that the 5M pump is better. Use the "Quote" button in the bottom right of that post then edit the rest of his post (if its a big one) so that we can see what you are talking about.
Also please clean up your first post, so it dosent look like you posted that photo. Check your PM's I described in detail how to fix it.
Please find the post where someone said that the 5M pump is better. Use the "Quote" button in the bottom right of that post then edit the rest of his post (if its a big one) so that we can see what you are talking about.
Also please clean up your first post, so it dosent look like you posted that photo. Check your PM's I described in detail how to fix it.
Great info everyone.
I agree with most of your findings. Thanks for sharing. I'm not sure if I missed it, but I haven't seen this noted on this thread.
In my testing I discovered that there is a flaw in the oil pump no one has covered here yet. I could be wrong about this as it has not been tested.
As you can see in the image below, the oil pump has a second guide at the very top. This guide is not really needed, unless maybe at really high RPMs. This is lubricated by the pump, thus loosing pressure. If this hole is sealed, it should increase oil pressure without any additional mods. (have in mind this is under the assumption the rest of the oil system is functioning as designed. No worn out parts).
There's a negative part about this. It looks like this oil lubricates the guide and the pinion, but this can possibly be fix with grease for initial lubrication, followed by lubrication from the oil floating around inside the block. Another fix maybe to remove the guide seat. We'll see.
I agree with most of your findings. Thanks for sharing. I'm not sure if I missed it, but I haven't seen this noted on this thread.
In my testing I discovered that there is a flaw in the oil pump no one has covered here yet. I could be wrong about this as it has not been tested.
As you can see in the image below, the oil pump has a second guide at the very top. This guide is not really needed, unless maybe at really high RPMs. This is lubricated by the pump, thus loosing pressure. If this hole is sealed, it should increase oil pressure without any additional mods. (have in mind this is under the assumption the rest of the oil system is functioning as designed. No worn out parts).
There's a negative part about this. It looks like this oil lubricates the guide and the pinion, but this can possibly be fix with grease for initial lubrication, followed by lubrication from the oil floating around inside the block. Another fix maybe to remove the guide seat. We'll see.
Removing the guide would put the oil pump shaft in single shear. I wouldnt recommend it. I dont think I would consider this a problem, since the end fits into the guide by design, how much oil couild possibly be lost. Also how do we know the Oil pump drive gear could live with the lubrication of what is splashing around alone. This might be required to lube that gear.
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Helical gears by nature try to seperate while running the pilot is there to prevent this, remove the pilot all the load goes into the pump body which has no bearing or bush.
Eventually it'll wear the then the pump gears will seperate under Oil pressure while they're pumping allowing them to rub the housing sides which will increase clearance and pressure will drop so on and so on until it fails or you get Rod Knock....
Why did you want to do this anyway?
(it's a 3mm bleed and from memory the bush is blind so the flow would only be past the sides of the pilot)
Eventually it'll wear the then the pump gears will seperate under Oil pressure while they're pumping allowing them to rub the housing sides which will increase clearance and pressure will drop so on and so on until it fails or you get Rod Knock....
Why did you want to do this anyway?
(it's a 3mm bleed and from memory the bush is blind so the flow would only be past the sides of the pilot)
Dunno that it's a case of "knowing" it's more a case of looking at how something has been engineered and why it's been done that way, there's usually a good reason for things as parts left out would reduce costs for Toyota so if it wasn't needed they wouldn't put it in....
Say for instance it costs them $5 per car to install a Charcoal Cannister add that up over ALL of the A70's built and you'll see how much could have been saved.
Along comes Cletus Street racer and for no better reason than "Ummm it looks ugly" he decides to start deleting parts with NFI what they actually do and then can't understand why his car won't run right.
I'm the last person that would say DON'T mod your car as there's very very little left on my car that's original but I would say at least get a clue before you start and don't do it cos Billy Joe Bubba Dumb Fuck did it and his car is running great
Say for instance it costs them $5 per car to install a Charcoal Cannister add that up over ALL of the A70's built and you'll see how much could have been saved.
Along comes Cletus Street racer and for no better reason than "Ummm it looks ugly" he decides to start deleting parts with NFI what they actually do and then can't understand why his car won't run right.
I'm the last person that would say DON'T mod your car as there's very very little left on my car that's original but I would say at least get a clue before you start and don't do it cos Billy Joe Bubba Dumb Fuck did it and his car is running great