Updated: Pics on post #28. Billet turbo with SP Quick spool valve.
- Thread starter tekdeus
- Start date
what do you mean map imput?
if you talking about high altuded box it was built into the ecu in 89 and extranle in 86 to 88
if you talking about high altuded box it was built into the ecu in 89 and extranle in 86 to 88
Even the MAF cars have one for the boost gauge but I'm not sure if the ECU uses it at all.
(never owned one so not sure)
If it's MAF only I can understand Randy's post the boosting early will cause detonation.
(never owned one so not sure)
If it's MAF only I can understand Randy's post the boosting early will cause detonation.
Nope, the guage is completely seperate (it functions the same as an aftermarket electronic boost gauge).
Turbo-A's and 1J's are MAP.
Turbo-A's and 1J's are MAP.
What's the stock timing map look like? Could I get away with using race gas the first time I stomp on it on in 4th gear to see how soon it actually spools? If it is really crazy, I can just leave the valve open for safety until later. If I plumb it into the wastegate line it will begin to open at 5psi and be fully open by 11-12.
Never seen a stock map but I assume it's fairly aggressive below 3000 for good engine response, you need to keep in mind a CT even if it's at 5psi @ 3000 is flowing MUCH less volume than your new Turbo at the same point so cylinder pressures are going to be much higher....
(you can get away with it with big cams as they bleed cylinder pressure)
(you can get away with it with big cams as they bleed cylinder pressure)
I'm saving up for a Motec or ViPec, but was thinking of running a progressive water/methanol kit for now. Would this give me a decent safety margin if I started spraying at 5psi? Also, would it help the mid-throttle risk to lower the hi-throttle point of my SAFC? It's set to 70% right now.
As a side note, I noticed that the ECU seems to go into WOT open loop mode around 2700-2800 rpm, (judging by my AFR's dropping to my WOT tune of 11.5)
As a side note, I noticed that the ECU seems to go into WOT open loop mode around 2700-2800 rpm, (judging by my AFR's dropping to my WOT tune of 11.5)
tekdeus;1284147 said:
we're going to be using a vipec on our new sae car. The guy that did the research on it speaks fondly of it. says It's much better than the motec for the money...beyond that I can't get you any more information though :s
I'm coming into this thread late....but how the heck do you machine such a compressor wheel?
is there a CNC machine that has say, 5 axis of movement that can get in there with a very small cutter?
This install was brutal. But after a huge number of hours, I have finally figured out what turned out to be the ultimate Rubic's cube puzzle of a turbo kit. Here are some pics and details!
I picked up a used undivided ETS 321 stainless T4 manifold which only required me to modify the length of the actuator arm on the SP valve, instead of making extensive modifications to a divided manifold like the eBay ones. This HTA GT35 turbo uses a custom machined Garrett .84 T4 turbine housing which sinks the center CHRA deep into the turbine. This causes all sorts of interference between the turbine, bolts, and the water and oil lines, making it almost impossible to install. I assume this is because the GT35r was originally designed for smaller T3 turbines.
I had to source and cut-to length super low-profile button head bolts for the tubine housing.
I also had to go to a machine shop to have them weld on an allen head and shave off the edges of the bolt head on one of the cooling line banjo bolts, to clear the turbine. I also had to cut it shorter. My hacksaw was used on several various bolts during this project!
Otherwise I would have had to bolt the water line on first then clock the turbo on the turbine, but this made it impossible to tighten this little black bolt.
Still after all that I had to bolt the turbo to the manifold outside of the car, and install it and the manifold as one assembly, because there is simply no way to properly tighten the bolt directly under the drain flange, which itself can only be installed out of the car...!! To do this I had to cut my manifold head studs shorter and bash in one of my AC hardlines to clear. I had to create and buy a couple of custom tools to finish the install.
This bolt had to be dropped in before the oil drain was bolted on:
The clearance is ridiculous. I had to cut one of my allen wrenches short to get in here, as well as file this bolt head down and buy a stubby wrench specifically for it:
Installing the oil drain required removal of the compressor cover:
Luckily I had a baby sized crescent wrench to tighten this bolt.
Both the manifold and turbo needed a a fair bit of griding to match the SP valve T4 ports and to clear the valve itself when opening. I also spent some time grinding down the inside of the manifold collector so that the 3 cylinders on the front of the engine wouldn't have to squeeze through such a tight opening. It is now about equal for all cylinders.
Two post-turbo boost sources. One goes to the solenoid to the valve, the other goes to the hobbs switch which I can set to any psi I choose. (Yes I used thread sealant
)
After all this trouble, I now REALLY see the merit of bolt-on kits!
I picked up a used undivided ETS 321 stainless T4 manifold which only required me to modify the length of the actuator arm on the SP valve, instead of making extensive modifications to a divided manifold like the eBay ones. This HTA GT35 turbo uses a custom machined Garrett .84 T4 turbine housing which sinks the center CHRA deep into the turbine. This causes all sorts of interference between the turbine, bolts, and the water and oil lines, making it almost impossible to install. I assume this is because the GT35r was originally designed for smaller T3 turbines.
I had to source and cut-to length super low-profile button head bolts for the tubine housing.
I also had to go to a machine shop to have them weld on an allen head and shave off the edges of the bolt head on one of the cooling line banjo bolts, to clear the turbine. I also had to cut it shorter. My hacksaw was used on several various bolts during this project!
Otherwise I would have had to bolt the water line on first then clock the turbo on the turbine, but this made it impossible to tighten this little black bolt.
Still after all that I had to bolt the turbo to the manifold outside of the car, and install it and the manifold as one assembly, because there is simply no way to properly tighten the bolt directly under the drain flange, which itself can only be installed out of the car...!! To do this I had to cut my manifold head studs shorter and bash in one of my AC hardlines to clear. I had to create and buy a couple of custom tools to finish the install.
This bolt had to be dropped in before the oil drain was bolted on:
The clearance is ridiculous. I had to cut one of my allen wrenches short to get in here, as well as file this bolt head down and buy a stubby wrench specifically for it:
Installing the oil drain required removal of the compressor cover:
Luckily I had a baby sized crescent wrench to tighten this bolt.
Both the manifold and turbo needed a a fair bit of griding to match the SP valve T4 ports and to clear the valve itself when opening. I also spent some time grinding down the inside of the manifold collector so that the 3 cylinders on the front of the engine wouldn't have to squeeze through such a tight opening. It is now about equal for all cylinders.
Two post-turbo boost sources. One goes to the solenoid to the valve, the other goes to the hobbs switch which I can set to any psi I choose. (Yes I used thread sealant
)
After all this trouble, I now REALLY see the merit of bolt-on kits!