My goal is minimum lag first, then very good top end 2nd. My current upgraded CT26 hits 15psi at 3800, and that's as laggy as I'd prefer it. Like IJ's V8, I don't want to have to wait for big power 
Updated: Pics on post #28. Billet turbo with SP Quick spool valve.
- Thread starter tekdeus
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^^^My poor-flowing stock head and big tires may thwart that problem for now...!
One thing at a time!NashMan;1276394 said:
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Looks like they're not made out of stainless... gonna have it coated? Wonder it it's going to be a pain to coat since it has moving parts...
Brad has been working under the impression that there's no such thing as 'too fast' in relation to spool. I suspect that may not be true, but I'll admit I'm more than happy to let him be the guinea pig on this one.
Poodles;1276631 said:
I would have it coated. A guy that knows what they are doing will have no problem with the valve. Nickle anti-seize on the valve stem/flange pivot hole.
"My current upgraded CT26 hits 15psi at 3800, and that's as laggy as I'd prefer it."
Hmmm. There is no comparison between the lag of a CT-26 and a much bigger turbo like the GT35R. The CT-26 upgrade outspools the GT35 by a long shot. Maybe you had some problems because I remember hitting 15psi much earlier than 3800rpms on my CT-26 upgrade..
But wait until you feel the topend of the GT35
Hmmm. There is no comparison between the lag of a CT-26 and a much bigger turbo like the GT35R. The CT-26 upgrade outspools the GT35 by a long shot. Maybe you had some problems because I remember hitting 15psi much earlier than 3800rpms on my CT-26 upgrade..
But wait until you feel the topend of the GT35
The spool valve and its flange are stainless. Yep. I'm the guinea pig noob for this combo.
By the way Ian, were you running LPG and way more torque than normal when you had those traction problems?
By the way Ian, were you running LPG and way more torque than normal when you had those traction problems?
Yep I didn't change back to gas until I got the T04z Brad.
With the 3540r it would boil the rears any gear Manual or Auto (I don't think Wider rubber is the answer)
It's going to be very interesting to see how this all goes down!
With the 3540r it would boil the rears any gear Manual or Auto (I don't think Wider rubber is the answer)
It's going to be very interesting to see how this all goes down!
Wow, doesn't look stainless in all the pics I've seen...
Then again, it's not polished *hint hint*
Then again, it's not polished *hint hint*
I wish people wouldn't use the term lag when they should be referring to time to spool.
I want to know how quickly this valve can open and close. Will it be quick enough to actually reduce turbo lag or will it only be useful to reduce time to spool? I guess I don't know enough about this valve. I'm off to do some reading...
I want to know how quickly this valve can open and close. Will it be quick enough to actually reduce turbo lag or will it only be useful to reduce time to spool? I guess I don't know enough about this valve. I'm off to do some reading...
I've ordered an SSAC 321. I will either have to modify it to be undivided, or build a riser to serve that purpose, or both. There is so little choice for tubular 7M manifolds.IJ.;1279589 said:
I was hoping to fab up my own downpipe but it looks like I need a $3000 machine just to friggin tack weld stainless. What a PIA! Tempted to just do mild steel...
You could tack it with a Mig then when the fabricator welds it for you he just grinds the tacks off.
Not sure if the 19mm will be enough to clear #1 runner to the compressor housing so you might have to add another spacer (I'd just buy a T04 flange and drill the threads out)
I ordered a QS valve for the Chev
Not sure if the 19mm will be enough to clear #1 runner to the compressor housing so you might have to add another spacer (I'd just buy a T04 flange and drill the threads out)
I ordered a QS valve for the Chev
By the way, is there a minimum RPM that the stock ECU needs to see before it goes into WOT open loop mode? How soon would be too soon to hit 15psi on this turbo?
Next plan is a standalone, but for the next couple of month's I'll still be on the stock ECU with SAFC.
Next plan is a standalone, but for the next couple of month's I'll still be on the stock ECU with SAFC.
GrimJack;1276660 said:
Yes, there is such thing as "too fast" in regards to spooling, first off there is the traction problems like IJ has pointed out, but that can be fixed by running lower boost, at least in first and second gear and with the AVCR I think you can run lower boost in diferent gears.
Second, the biggest problem with spooling "to fast" is that with the stock ecu, there will be way to much ignition timing at the lower rpm's where previously there wasnt boost being made. So there is definatly a good chance of pinging /detonation...which is a bad thing. Now with a standalone ECU this isnt a problem, as you can just adjust as necissary, but the stock ecu does what it does and you cant change it. Now add on top of this using a SAFC to adjust the fuel, which also affects ignition timing because of the load maps and how it just scales the MAF signal to "trick" the computer into adding or subtracting fuel. Things can get messy really quick, beecuase you have absolutly no way of knowing how much timing you are running and no way of controling it. You may have to run a mix with race gas in it to keep the pinging down. With an AFC, as you pull fuel out (minus -) it actually tells the ecu that there is less load, which in turn has more ignition advance in it. If you are adding fuel (+) you are telling the ecu that there is more load on the engine, which will retard the ignition timing.
Brad you need to drive a Supra with a big turbo (67mm or larger) on it and see what lag really is, full boost at 3800-4000 is about as quick as you want it. On my 1j with a DBB T61 which essentially is a GT35R with a P trim turbne wheel, I see full boost at about 3700-3800, which is great. I think that on your car with the Billet turbo and the quick spool valve you will see full boost (15-18psi) at 3000-3200....thats my guess. Anyways bring your car the my shop and I will build the downpipe for you, and no dont get a mild steel DP, SS only for your car.
Randy