Flames? Probably not, the goal here is cool pistons and safety! I now have 50+ more rwhp than Tejon's Mk4
On the street, the spool is faster than the dyno sheet shows, perhaps because of the dyno load? Because I know that I hit 15psi at 3600 in 4th gear. Due to problems getting a cheap hobbs switch to work well, I currently have the SP valve plumbed directly to boost source. So it starts to open at 5psi, and is fully open around 11psi, opening progressively. If you guys know where I can get a super accurate and reliable hobbs switch, please let me know. Otherwise I will have to wait until I get a standalone to control the valve properly. I'm starting to believe it needs to be controlled by a standalone to open progressively between 9 and 13psi(or by having more actuator spring preload). Because with the hobbs switch opening it instantly, it was very unsmooth, and it seemed that my AVCR boost controller had trouble controlling boost when the exhaust pressure went from super high to low in an instant.
You can see how fast is goes from 3psi to 8.5psi between 2920rpm and 3250rpm, then when the valve opens, the spool slows down, then carries on, leaving a fair amount of spool and low end power on the table. You can also see on the power curve how steep the power is rising up to 3250rpm when the valve opens, leaving the turbo to do the rest of the spool at it's normal rate. So at least is it doing what it is supposed to, and the SP valve concept works. :bigthumb: Judging by the angle and speed of spool and power up to 3250rpm, it looks like I might be able to still move the rest of the power curve over 300-500rpms if I tighten the spring preload on the SP valve actuator to open later! :aigo:
The green line is boost PSI, numbers on the right side. Blue line is A/F ratio:
HP and TQ: