TweeT's 89 7MGTE rebuild

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
When I finally do get the block apart, what all should I have my machine block to to it? I want to reuse the stock pistons, rods, and crank. SO just a basic hone? (de-glaze)? I'm getting new rings and bearings, anything else I should go with new gear on?
 

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
So desided to get the block and head ready to be taken away.... those poor guys :(

Pics?

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Had to push the little gurly back and out off the way:love:

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My head
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Look at them all playing together :naughty:


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---------- Post added at 03:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:46 PM ----------

So its stuck.....

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:1zhelp:



With the twist of two fingers.....:naughty:

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Its off:biglaugh:

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Ok so my fingers didnt use the 650 ft. lbs. of torque the tire shops impact gun did....but its off so im happy.
 

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
So tonight was a lot of fun....it was the longest day at work I think I have ever had, but its cause I wanted to get home really bad. So when I did I got right to the real work, and started.... reading? Yes, the Toyota bible that is :D The sweet sweet TRSM:biglaugh:. So I got the jist of how to pull and the order to pull so I got started...and now the thing everyone is waiting for....pics:) lol



First off this little piece feel out when I first pulled off the main pulley. Anyone have any idea what it is? Cause im not to sure.

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Lower timing plate cover. and timing belt

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Oil bump gear

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Just for me to remember

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Rear tming cover is off :)

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Starting taking off the main caps, and realized...the rear plate next to the flywheel, had to come off...only problem was that it was againt a engine stand, rookie move YES! I know, but we all learn somehow :D


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So my new engine stand, cause they are peice of crap anyways :: lolsign ::

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Got all the main caps off then the rod caps off, and removed he crank....they I noticed that all the bearings didnt come off and I think I found what my problem was.

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*Note

The following are from the same crank lobe.

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So if anyone has any ideas about this...im going to post a seprate post in the 7m-gte forums just about this problem Cause idk if anyone reads the little sub titles for each picture. So ill see what happens then.

But anyways I got the other things out...not that they really matter :) lol jk jk

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So now my next move is to be getting the block hot tanked then machined. Depending on weather I go with stock pistons, or at most some .20 over pistons, ill have to wait till I purchase those....so they can all go in together. Also have new freeze plugs installed. Then i'm going to have the crank micro polished and balanced. Umm after that I guess i'll start saving again lol for head work.
 

Devin LeBlanc

Banned
Apr 7, 2010
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The piece that fell out when you took off the front pulley is the keyway for the crank pulley. This keeps it from rotating. If you look at the crank pulley where it goes onto the crank there is a slot in the pulley and also in the crank shaft

As far as your crank, Yeah.. Thats a spun rod bearing. Thats probably why it was knocking, so you'll have to bring it to the machine shop to have them mic it to see if it is salvageable. If so they will turn the crank and then you'll have to get oversized bearings for it. They will probably provide the bearings. Most machine shops do. Either way, that crank is going to need a lot more than being micro polished. If it cant be salvaged, start looking for another crank.

Build looks good so far, Keep the progress coming!
 

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
Devin LeBlanc;1578453 said:
The piece that fell out when you took off the front pulley is the keyway for the crank pulley. This keeps it from rotating. If you look at the crank pulley where it goes onto the crank there is a slot in the pulley and also in the crank shaft

As far as your crank, Yeah.. Thats a spun rod bearing. Thats probably why it was knocking, so you'll have to bring it to the machine shop to have them mic it to see if it is salvageable. If so they will turn the crank and then you'll have to get oversized bearings for it. They will probably provide the bearings. Most machine shops do. Either way, that crank is going to need a lot more than being micro polished. If it cant be salvaged, start looking for another crank.

Build looks good so far, Keep the progress coming!

Ok cool, im glad someone is able to tell me what I did...I noticed it and was like....that cant be good. So ill take it to them tomorrow and see if its salavgeable. If not....I have seen a few cranks in the for sale secton. So ill have to wait and see :) Thanks bro...i'm so glad I finally know what I did now, and I know im not wasting my time.
 

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
LOOK AT WHAT I WOKE UP TOO !!!!! :D:D:D:D


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BUT WHAT IS IT????

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I got everything taken apart last night...and desided to go ahead and take everything to the machine shop :)

Something very cool is the guy that owns the shop like to take picstures as much as I do, (i dont think he has any idea) and he said that he would take picsture during the machineing process, for my build thread. But this is what I left her at :( poor girl

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TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
So while the motor is being worked on...im going to start and finish up a few things.

Things to do:

1 .Find replacement pearl white driver fender and headlight cover
2. Replace broken attenia mast
3. Respray interior (black)
4. Install spacers on wheels
5. Refinish the lips on the IS200 wheels
6. Replocate engine bay fuse box, to inner fender wall.
7. Install smoked headlights, turn signals and side markers.

So I have already done a few on this list (its just a copy of the list I have on my computer) like headlights, turns, and sides, I started to respray the interior some today, just to get a feel for it. I dont think the one peice I srayied turned out to bad. Anyways, im really wanting to get started on relocating the fuse box. Anyone have any tips on doing this? Has anyone done this and or done a write up on it?


Here are some pics of the new turns, and how the rest of the body loks....very dirty. And the fuse box before I start moving it.

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Smoked Side Markers

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Close up of the marker


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Last look at the fuse box mess

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The one piece I resprayied

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TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
Ok so my machine shop contacted me today, and they told me that i'm going to need new pistons and rings. Can anyone recommend some pistons tat aren't meant to go balls out with like JE, CP, ect. Some low budget pistons that are offered in at least .20 over from stock bore. Would it be better in my interest to just get another set of stock 7m-gte pistons? That is of course if the block is still in stock tolerance's to the pistons.
 

wardog

R.G.V WARDOG
Jan 19, 2006
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ALTON, TX
If you dont plan to go close to 450rwhp a set of Npr .020 over will be fine. I have personally pushed 430rwhp on them, its all on your tune. Good luck and as far as a Forged set of .020 over pistons, your cheapest forged option is Probe from Driftmotion. But you need to prep your block to the forged pistons spec sheet, in your case your block is preped for a stock .020 over.
 

TweeT91109

New Member
Jan 7, 2010
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Tampa, Florida, United States
Ok I have so the block is done getting hot tanked, and the pistons are no good...so instead of paying for new ones, i'm going to pay the machine shop for the work they have done on my bearing set, and then just save up for a replacement motor. Hopefully something that will last for a bit, and that I can use to daily drive...cause this not having a car is getting old, really fast lol. So over time I will just drive the supra, and build the motor :)

Any suggestions on a company to order the motor from? Some where that doesn't give you busted motors?