Buddafucco;934459 said:
i was thinking that, i'm still wondering on which vacuum ports go where and which ones i'm going to blocking off. :aigo:
so i can just block the nipple of the waterneck then since my JT61GT is just oil cooled?
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i was thinking that, i'm still wondering on which vacuum ports go where and which ones i'm going to blocking off. :aigo:
so i can just block the nipple of the waterneck then since my JT61GT is just oil cooled?
Beatrice;934761 said:
thanks man! there's plenty more to do, trust me. but that means MORE PICTURES TO GO WITH IT!
.....told you i was picture whore :biglaugh:
-t3d
Yes.
There is another to block off down by the water pump also.
If you find plugs to fit you can take the fittings off and it will clean things up nicer.
There is another to block off down by the water pump also.
If you find plugs to fit you can take the fittings off and it will clean things up nicer.
if you're talking about the one on the coolant pipe thing, i'm already in the process of that. i just got to trim the bolt down. it's hard to find a bolt that big and short.
thanks man
thanks man
MOAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so i took somebodys advice and replaced those zipties with clamps :biglaugh:
i capped off the coolant ports on the TB
i capped this one off, but didn't feel that vacuum caps would hold under the pressure and heat, so i did this...
:naughty:
started attacking the harness again. trying to clean up all the wires and fix all the bad connections and whatnot before i tap it up :icon_bigg
haha a couple of examples of my electrical skills of wire repair.:naughty:
i love heat shrink and liquid electrical tape
where does this connect to?:1zhelp:
OH ITS SOOO PRETTY! :love:
here's my sweetheart :biglaugh:
so i took somebodys advice and replaced those zipties with clamps :biglaugh:
i capped off the coolant ports on the TB
i capped this one off, but didn't feel that vacuum caps would hold under the pressure and heat, so i did this...
:naughty:
started attacking the harness again. trying to clean up all the wires and fix all the bad connections and whatnot before i tap it up :icon_bigg
haha a couple of examples of my electrical skills of wire repair.:naughty:
i love heat shrink and liquid electrical tape
where does this connect to?:1zhelp:
OH ITS SOOO PRETTY! :love:
here's my sweetheart :biglaugh:
oohh looks nicer everytime i see it. BTW that hard line has a hose that goes on one of the nipples on the power steering pump. the one closer to the block if i remember correctly.
that might help.
that might help.
Nice clamps!
You should get more input on this, but I didn't think the effects of the power steering valve were worth it. If you took that line off then it's 1 less section of vacuum line to worry about and it makes the engine bay that much cleaner and easier to work on.
Those coolant lines on the throttle body don't go anywhere anymore so you could take the clamps off of those.
That looks like my old dog Maxine. She was a brindle cattle dog/ pit mix.
You should get more input on this, but I didn't think the effects of the power steering valve were worth it. If you took that line off then it's 1 less section of vacuum line to worry about and it makes the engine bay that much cleaner and easier to work on.
Those coolant lines on the throttle body don't go anywhere anymore so you could take the clamps off of those.
That looks like my old dog Maxine. She was a brindle cattle dog/ pit mix.
Ok.
1) Personally I wouldnt block off those two coolant lines that are supposed to go to the stock turbo. Lots of people report having heating issues just from blocking them off. Your best bet is to use the NA thermostat hardlines and banjo fittings and then just run a hose that connects the two ports. That way coolant still flows like it should but you dont have to hook them up to anything but each other.
2) You dont have to cap the ports on the TB. They can stay open. So unless you are doing it for cosmetics or something you can feel free to take them off.
3) Vacuum is vacuum. As long as whatever needs vacuum has vacuum from the manifold it doesnt matter what route it gets it from. Except for the VSVs under the intake manifold which I always just ditch anyways because you dont need them IMO. Especially the rear one that controls the EGR which you dont have anymore.
4) That hardline that connects to the PS. Its for your Progressive Power Steering. Meaning it keeps the idle up when you are turning the wheels at low RPM. Another thing that IMO is a creature comfort. If you like that type of thing then hook it up. If you dont care and are going for the "clean" look then just ditch the hardline and loop the valve on the PS pump.
1) Personally I wouldnt block off those two coolant lines that are supposed to go to the stock turbo. Lots of people report having heating issues just from blocking them off. Your best bet is to use the NA thermostat hardlines and banjo fittings and then just run a hose that connects the two ports. That way coolant still flows like it should but you dont have to hook them up to anything but each other.
2) You dont have to cap the ports on the TB. They can stay open. So unless you are doing it for cosmetics or something you can feel free to take them off.
3) Vacuum is vacuum. As long as whatever needs vacuum has vacuum from the manifold it doesnt matter what route it gets it from. Except for the VSVs under the intake manifold which I always just ditch anyways because you dont need them IMO. Especially the rear one that controls the EGR which you dont have anymore.
4) That hardline that connects to the PS. Its for your Progressive Power Steering. Meaning it keeps the idle up when you are turning the wheels at low RPM. Another thing that IMO is a creature comfort. If you like that type of thing then hook it up. If you dont care and are going for the "clean" look then just ditch the hardline and loop the valve on the PS pump.
1)i see what you're saying, i'll check my NA motor and see what i can steal off that
2)well, i'm gonna keep them capped mainly because it looks better =0)
3)so, could i just pretty much block off or loop the other nipples like the one thats on the back of the upper intake manifold?
4)so, a hose connects to that and i'm guessing the other hose connects to the nipple on the turbo accordian pipe nipple?
sorry guys, i forgot my camera today, but i finished cleaning up all the wires on the harness and started re-taping it. lets just say it matches my motor:naughty:
2)well, i'm gonna keep them capped mainly because it looks better =0)
3)so, could i just pretty much block off or loop the other nipples like the one thats on the back of the upper intake manifold?
4)so, a hose connects to that and i'm guessing the other hose connects to the nipple on the turbo accordian pipe nipple?
sorry guys, i forgot my camera today, but i finished cleaning up all the wires on the harness and started re-taping it. lets just say it matches my motor:naughty:
so since you capped off the coolant line on the TB where does the line that comes from the ISC valve go?
the t3d;937054 said:
You should cut the nipples off the TB and IAC it cleans it up way more, that's what I did.
Should have been watching this thread more... Also suprised some of you guys didn't catch some of the mistakes he made.
Valve stem seals go on AFTER installing the valves. The valve stem has a sharp edge that likes to cut the seals, this is why they include what looks like small pieces of straw that you put over the valve stem to protect the seal.
That is a JDM oil pressure sensor, and is NOT compatible with the USDM gauge.
Valve stem seals go on AFTER installing the valves. The valve stem has a sharp edge that likes to cut the seals, this is why they include what looks like small pieces of straw that you put over the valve stem to protect the seal.
That is a JDM oil pressure sensor, and is NOT compatible with the USDM gauge.
Poodles;938384 said:
yea i did hear something about that after i had the head together. hopefully it wont be anything serious.
if i just change the USDM connector so it'll fit on that, why would it be a problem?
Very clean and tedious work, just a lot of in your face blue lol...Whatever though man nice work.
the t3d;938829 said:
The gauge and sender won't work together, and in worst case will fry the gauge...
the t3d;939101 said:
I have one for 10 million dollars
On a side note... Ive gotten a few jdm engines before and they have had the standard looking sending unit... weird.