loc182;2053355 said:
I did this like 2 weeks ago I believe it's just like the cps connector shouldn't be too hard.
Anyone know what thread pitch the studs are for the ct26 need new ones for my down pipe
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The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
I did this like 2 weeks ago I believe it's just like the cps connector shouldn't be too hard.
Anyone know what thread pitch the studs are for the ct26 need new ones for my down pipe
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I finally got it, though I doubt I did it correctly.
The end coming from the wiring harness is the end that comes out, and a small centered protrusion on top keeps it in place under a sort of H looking bit of plastic.
I finally released it by going at the H from the side with a small screwdriver...but this seems wrong. I had tried using the same screwdriver to go at it from the front, but this never raised the bar of the H enough to release the connector.
The end coming from the wiring harness is the end that comes out, and a small centered protrusion on top keeps it in place under a sort of H looking bit of plastic.
I finally released it by going at the H from the side with a small screwdriver...but this seems wrong. I had tried using the same screwdriver to go at it from the front, but this never raised the bar of the H enough to release the connector.
So I tried tackling my power steering issue and when I tried removing the banjo bolt on the pump the entire union bolt broke loose and there is no room at all to get a wrench on it to hold it while I break the banjo bolt loose. Also I don't know how the hell to get that hose and hard line out without dropping the subframe. Anybody have any tips or advice?
somewhere, someone did a pretty nice write up on switching that hose out, helped me out a lot when I replaced mine last winter. May want to try a search.
The biggest help was to know that you need to unbolt the steering rack to get the old hose out and the new one back in. I had the same issue with the banjo fitting. I have a 27 mm wrench in my tool box so I know somehow I was able to hold the fitting while removing the hose. Once I figured out what to remove, was not that hard. Take lower radiator hose off and a section of the turbo hose. The line clamp on top of the sub-frame is a pain but I found a 1/4" flexible ratchet head to be invaluable.
The biggest help was to know that you need to unbolt the steering rack to get the old hose out and the new one back in. I had the same issue with the banjo fitting. I have a 27 mm wrench in my tool box so I know somehow I was able to hold the fitting while removing the hose. Once I figured out what to remove, was not that hard. Take lower radiator hose off and a section of the turbo hose. The line clamp on top of the sub-frame is a pain but I found a 1/4" flexible ratchet head to be invaluable.
Doat;2053453 said:
1. Remove anything prior to the turbo and hot side IC pippings, more importantly the pipes right after the turbo that sits on top of the rack and below the pump.
2. Remove that stupid PS line clamp. ( 1/4" thinwall 10mm works well here)
3. Remove the rack bolt down bracket and bushing ( this will give you enough room to slightly push the passenger side of the rack up to pull the line through).
4. Undo the banjo bolt on the pump and yes the banjo bolt fitting will want to move with the banjo bolt, you just have to find something to hold it in place to continue.
5. Undo rack side banjo bolt.
6. Once everything is free you can start pulling, wiggle the line towards the turbo, ABS module area. There should be plenty of room to do this and with the rack being loose and with some wiggle room for the rack you then can slide the rack end part of the line through.
7. Installation is of course just the reverse order of everything.
Good luck dude!
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Pulled out the upper rear garnish trim today and found that one of the protrusions on the back that a clip goes on was broken off 
Happily the broken bit was not lost or damaged any further, so I would like to try a repair
Any recommendations on a glue to get this back together? Never had much luck with the instant fix glues (like Gorilla or Super Glue), so I am thinking maybe an epoxy of some sort?
Happily the broken bit was not lost or damaged any further, so I would like to try a repair
Any recommendations on a glue to get this back together? Never had much luck with the instant fix glues (like Gorilla or Super Glue), so I am thinking maybe an epoxy of some sort?
Do the foglight yellow capsules differ from pre 89 and post 89 or are they interchangeable?
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Janch;2054822 said:
I am no expert on wheels by any means, but I tried my luck looking for pictures in Japan.
After looking at a lot of auctions and wheels I noted that I never saw any text on the rear of the spokes on the official AVS Model 5s. Instead, the size and model number were always hidden in divots on the rear of the center of the wheel.
This auction has a nice close up of the center of the wheel from behind to show this:
http://page15.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t436583991
Also, the center caps consistently said AVS and Model 5 along with some other text on the official wheels. Based on the similar script on your wheels I suspect this was done to try and replicate the official wheels.
Based on these two elements I would say your wheels are replicas, but I am no expert. At any rate, even if they are not official they still look nice!
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drogon;2054423 said:
From all the images I have seen the 86.5-88 fog lamps are a bit wider and more trapezoidal than the 89-92 ones.
Toyota also lists different part numbers for them:
_________86.5 - 88_________89-92
Left_____81221-14130____81221-14131
Right____81211-14130____81211-14131
So it would seem they cannot be interchanged, but someone please correct me if I am wrong.
Has anyone ever found a thread or a guide on reinstalling the front lip (aka front spoiler, cover) on to an 89+ car?
I removed mine two years ago as the stays that hold it in place were bent and damaged, and the wretched mechanics of the PO had not replaced all the nuts and bolts. I am collecting everything I think I need for the reinstall, but it would be great to have some real guidance!
I removed mine two years ago as the stays that hold it in place were bent and damaged, and the wretched mechanics of the PO had not replaced all the nuts and bolts. I am collecting everything I think I need for the reinstall, but it would be great to have some real guidance!
loc182;2054900 said:
akito;2054929 said:
Good to know thanks!
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Pre 89 an 89on fog lights capsules aren't interchangeable 89on are held in place by 2 screws
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How do you install 89+ tail lights on a pre 89? I heard you just have to drill extra holes and then mount it is that true?
I can't remember exactly, but I think all you have to do is bend a tab... Someone else will confirm.