Since it's an 89 you have a lot of aftermarket options. I'm not sure if it is still available from Toyota, but that is also an option.
The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
Thanks. For ChumpCar I need either stock OEM or something really cheap to keep from getting any more penalty laps.
If you're looking for downforce.. then the stock lip is not what you're looking for. It's just that, a lip. Purely aesthetic.
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Backlash2032;1994131 said:
Interesting, so I can probably do without it?
Other things missing on this car include the big plastic shield that was underneath the engine. Only tiny bits attached to the mounting bolts came with the car.
Does this do anything for good air flow through the radiator, at speed? I'd kind of like to do with out it, as it's in the way when working on the motor.
The undershield does help with forcing air through the radiator. It's only a couple of bolts to remove it anyway..
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It would be better to keep the splash shield for cooling and aero. Race cars all use flat bottoms.
Ok I have a 1jz 154 car. I bought the car and it has a exedy singlenplate 6 puck clutch. Clutch is slipping and looking into a replacement. Im not going with a big clutch just enough to hold bpu power. But my main question is. The flywheel that is in the car has a shoulder on it. Every replacement flywheel I have have. Has no shoulder. Is this a specific flywheel for an exedy clutch? I have only viewed it through the inspection covers.
I hesitated to start a thread but I just need a quick answer:
I bought a JDM SOARER R154 to replace my destroyed Supra R154 (1 year ago).
Obviously my speedometer is off, it reads a lot lower than my actual speed (I'm going 120kph, it will read 107-8 kph).
I was wondering if I could just replace the speedometer sensor driven gear (as it is really easy and does not require transmission removal).
My car is a early 89, I had square engine mounts, grey plugs with yellow plugs pinouts, 6m crank. So what diff ratio have I got (3.93?). The soarer final drive is 4.083 (when 2.5TT R154).
Is it possible to just replace the speedometer sensor driven gear to fix the speedometer offset, if yes: What gear do I need (p/n would be great, that way I could order it at the dealer ship).
Thank you
I bought a JDM SOARER R154 to replace my destroyed Supra R154 (1 year ago).
Obviously my speedometer is off, it reads a lot lower than my actual speed (I'm going 120kph, it will read 107-8 kph).
I was wondering if I could just replace the speedometer sensor driven gear (as it is really easy and does not require transmission removal).
My car is a early 89, I had square engine mounts, grey plugs with yellow plugs pinouts, 6m crank. So what diff ratio have I got (3.93?). The soarer final drive is 4.083 (when 2.5TT R154).
Is it possible to just replace the speedometer sensor driven gear to fix the speedometer offset, if yes: What gear do I need (p/n would be great, that way I could order it at the dealer ship).
Thank you
I thought there was only 1 R154, period. I do know there is 2 different speedo gears, but to do it precisely I am not sure of options. Going to watch and see...
Hey guys. I'm in the long process of starting to rebuild my block.
Right now I have my head (still assembled, just exh. mani off) resting against the wall with a cloth tarp surrounding it.
So basically, i have the head standing upright against the wall with a little bit of an angle (to keep it from falling forward heh)
My concern, and sorry if this sounds silly but, is there a chance of it warping or getting misshaped from leaning against a wall for a period of time?
Thanks!
Right now I have my head (still assembled, just exh. mani off) resting against the wall with a cloth tarp surrounding it.
So basically, i have the head standing upright against the wall with a little bit of an angle (to keep it from falling forward heh)
My concern, and sorry if this sounds silly but, is there a chance of it warping or getting misshaped from leaning against a wall for a period of time?
Thanks!
Grandavi;1997355 said:
There is only one R154 but on the soarer the extension housing is different (swap it for the mk3) and the DRIVER SPEEDO GEAR is a 10Teeth (IIRC).
Howzit guys and gals, just purchased another MK3. Working on a lot of small little things. Anyway, for the power steering reservoir, do they still make the rubber gasket for the cap or sell the cap with the gasket? How are you guys fixing the leaks around the cap?
Quick question, I got precision 550cc injectors and I was wondering if I get this injector o-ring kit from DM, will if be good to use on the precision injectors? The precision injectors I bought used and they came with its own green o-ring that I don't want to reuse, so I just wanna make sure if I use the o-ring kit from DM, I won't be leaking any fuel.
Hi guys. Is hx40 responsive enaugh for stret use? On what rmp it starts to spool? Im looking for holset but cant really find 35 but there are some good 40's around. Id like to end up 450-500hp with my turbo and future setup.
Or maybe i need to look harder for 35?
And i love drag racing
Just quick answer will be good enough from u guys
Or maybe i need to look harder for 35?
And i love drag racing
Just quick answer will be good enough from u guys
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Your question lacks info... What supporting mods and build. Your going to want standalone with that power goal.
The HX40 (if its the one I am thinking of that Dodge uses) probably is too small for what your looking for (but I am going off specs for the Dodge Ram version...)
The HX40 (if its the one I am thinking of that Dodge uses) probably is too small for what your looking for (but I am going off specs for the Dodge Ram version...)
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ok. first i will do lex afm 560cc from evo 8. 3" exhaust 2, 5" intake piping stock IC EBC ... new maniforl with external wastegate. upgaded fuel pump with FPR . just these basic upgrades.including head gasket and ARP studs i will stick to stock ecu and with this setup i plan to push max 400hp to crank because of the stock engine. when it wont hold the power anymore i will prob rebuild it with good quality pistons, rings etc to be able to hold up to 500hp with no worries. as long as my money goes on other things i wont get standalone or any other remappable ecu.
so again. hx35 or hx40? thx oh and there are no cummins. Holsets i can get only from MAN or Iveco trucks. The 30 or 40 i mean.
Grandavi i know that standalone is must. I hope i will get some good deal on it soon. But for now and for begining im hoping not to have much trouble with stock ECU.
so again. hx35 or hx40?
thx oh and there are no cummins. Holsets i can get only from MAN or Iveco trucks. The 30 or 40 i mean. Grandavi i know that standalone is must. I hope i will get some good deal on it soon. But for now and for begining im hoping not to have much trouble with stock ECU.
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Fairly certain the hx35 is too small, the hx40 (solely going by specs) should be safe for 400 (only know of dodge rams running them though). I'm not an expert though. You may want to move this into the turbo area for better response.
Also, and this is just me, I wouldn't plan for 400 rwhp+ safely without going standalone. Stock engine can take roughly 600 HP at the crank, but the electronics for the car weren't meant for over doubling stock output. Just going from experience.
Also, and this is just me, I wouldn't plan for 400 rwhp+ safely without going standalone. Stock engine can take roughly 600 HP at the crank, but the electronics for the car weren't meant for over doubling stock output. Just going from experience.